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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone ever calculated how fast you can theoretically play. lets say e to f. spring rate determines acceleration rate of the key and hence max speed before it hits the stop. if it rebounds it might change thins if you had to go back to e. what would be the minimum key height before the sound distorts.

Has anyone done this? if done for all the notes and keys that would be really cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
it looks like 23 views but no comments.

It must be really hard or a really stupid question. I suppose how fast isnt a really a relevant question. fast and sound bad would be no good too.

I am still curious though if anyone knows anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thnks sismo. i glad someone has gone to the trouble to measure and put some numbers to this. what was the typical force an a factory horn?

I see there are too many uncontrollable variables. sismo's approach looks like its much more useful for making a horn playable. force pushing down obviously is dependent on the player and hence uncontrollable. the variable pad contact, spring rate, damping, friction, etc. could probably be estimated/averaged but there would be significant room for variation.

that sort of leads to have you already had a discussion on optimum pad materials and design?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
wow i forgot this one. i suspected that light springs didnt make a real difference in speed because of how fast you can get your finger out of the way. i played one alto at at the repair shop that had much lighter springs than mine. since it was the the techs horn, i bet he spent some time getting it to play so nice with, compared to my horn, lighter springs.

the pad seating issue and pads sismo brought up is interesting too. im surprised a better more forgiving material hasnt been found over the years. its still basically the same as done in the 1920's. maybe somethink that takes a little thermal set coated with teflon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I just came back from my holiday, and picked up my tenor with slow springs and high action, leaving the Ferrari (best MKVI ever, perfect setup) in the case: all the issues disappeared!

As long as you do not have an immediate comparison, everything is fine.
Pads need to be replaced when they leak excessively.
i wonder if you were playing as well though. no immediate comparison doesnt seem like a good test. if you played that horn for a while and then compared to the other that would seem to account for "thats just what im accustomed to"factor
 
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