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Vintage Selmer buying guide

6.5K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  Zan Zeman  
#1 ·
Hi is there a link to a buying guide for vintage selmers?

I know from my limited experience the lacquer is the first thing people look at to assess value. Usually its obvious but sometimes cases pop up of saxes that have been relacquered but also re-engraved and it makes things confusing.

The second thing I've learned to look for is the pull down or bent neck. It seems most necks have been bent or pulled down due to age. (There is a great video on Bob Reynolds page where Ben Wendel suggests vintage horns have a distinct sound because their necks are all out of shape.) A tell tale give away that a neck has a repaired pull down is the markings along the sides of the neck that indicate the neck was readjusted. Dealers have told me a repaired neck lowers the value of mark vi tenor by $1000. And this was four or five years ago. Along these lines I've also learned how important the tenon and neck fitting are. A good seal here goes a long way to making sure the horn plays in tip top form. If there is green gunk around the neck tenon then that means air is getting in and the seal is not good. Anything else to look out for in this area?

Also, through watching Matt Stoher's videos I've learned too look an see if the keys have any play in them. I need to google 'swedging' to refresh my memory on how this affects value. I know there is info out there on this.. I think swedging has to do with rods.....

Dents don't seem to affect the value that much if the horn plays well. I see people are willing to pay up for a horn if its dented and repaired but plays really well. Are there certain dents to be more wary of than others? Along these lines if posts have been dented or repaired is that a big deal?

Regarding wear of the brass like on the thumb hook area of the sba's, when is the integrity of the brass/horn an issue? Also, I've seen horns with rust like patina, could this patina that can look like rust cause the metal to fail at some point?

Regarding resolders- how durable are they if done right the first time? Are they as good as new? Or will they be weaker and wear out?

******A big question I have is original pads and resonators: If horn does not have original pad and resonators does that affect value? I know these horns need to be repadded but does that affect the value? What if it doesn't have the original resonators? How does that affect the value? What should people be thinking about here when buying a horn with respect to value?

Any other metrics you look at?
 
#2 ·
'Pull down' results from putting the mouthpiece on with the neck in the horn. Ideally you would put the mouthpiece on the neck first then put it in the horn, and you even then have to hold the neck in such a way as to avoid the pulling-down force. Correcting a neck does not necessarily leave marks or any other clue that it has been done so you have no way of knowing if it has been done or not. A neck that has visual evidence of being repaired, like a brass patch, soldering, etc., will possibly reduce the value of the instrument.
A vintage Selmer with original pads is a unicorn but lately there have been a few posted to sell for $25,000. Generally when pricing a vintage/used horn you figure on a $1300 overhaul unless the buyer can prove it recently had one.
Patina, red rust, green areas, black areas are all just tarnish on the brass and can be rubbed off or chemically removed. none of them have any tendency to eat the brass. You do have to be careful to check for rust on the steel parts, springs, rods and screws. Here, rust can destroy those parts.
Dents are bad news for value and the alert seller will pay to have them fixed before listing the horn. In such a case, he should also mention that it has had dent repair. Even repaired dents, if known, will affect value.
70 year-old horns usually have play in the keys which is sometimes a good reason to get an overhaul. Usually a seller will mention that dents have been repaired.
On engraving, you have to be familiar with the standard engraving used when the sax you're looking at was made. Actual re-engraving of the original engraving so it can't be detected is basically not done. It was done by hand and hands sometimes err. Also, the existing engraving might be too worn to really follow precisely.
Lacquer is probably the most discussed aspect - the reason is not really the lacquer, but whether or not the horn has been machine-buffed, which is highly undesirable. You know of course that every horn that is to have a polished appearance is machine buffed at the factory, several times. As a rule you don't want to do that anymore but it doesn't always mean a ruined sax. Even a factory unlacquered sax will be buffed. They have to buff them because a finished sax before buffing is pretty ugly. One thing they do is to media-blast certain ones to give them a matte finish. This results in the least amount of brass loss.
So, it would be better to get an unlacquered sax that has never been buffed after manufacture than a shiny lacquered one that has been re-polished after manufacture.
 
#3 ·
Any other metrics you look at?
The option to return the horn if it doesn't meet expectations. Some horns may look great, play well, but don't have the sound/response the buyer was hoping for. In that instance, the buyer should cover shipping costs. If the horn is not as represented, then the seller should cover shipping costs.
 
#4 ·
Here's some info you may find useful.

This is basically a tutorial for shopping for a horn.

This guy (even though he has a bad rep, especially on SOTW) is the only one putting out pricing for vintage horns.
 
#5 ·
Here's some info you may find useful.


This guy (even though he has a bad rep, especially on SOTW) is the only one putting out pricing for vintage horns.

From that price guide:

SUPER BALANCED ACTION 35801- 53200
Almost perfection ! Better feel and intonation than the Balanced.. The engraving is usually not too elaborate.
Tenor $5500


Anyone who has an SBA tenor for sale for $5500, please PM me.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, SG has been pulling that crap for years. He started doing that to push his horns for $14k saying that they’re 3x better than a Mark VI but made in China.

The other guides look pretty good.

Pull-Down isn’t that big of a deal of someone can correct the neck. If a pull-down has happened a few times… I’d look for another neck because the walls of the neck lose their integrity. You can only bring them back to shape so many times before they become flimsy. There are few techs who can do it right.
 
#8 ·
Perhaps for vintage saxophones, better than a given price at a given time, it would be interesting to have a guide of relative trends and evolutions over recent years.

For instance, I have found three beautiful saxophones in two shops: a Super Balanced Action alto, a Balanced Action alto and a 5-digits Mark VI alto, all at around the same price of $5,300-5,500.

These are all collectible horns, all more or less in same lacquer condition, all recently serviced, all from reputable shops, they all sound good, and look very nice, no preference for sound or playability or looks, one cannot go wrong with any of them.

All these things being equal, which one seems the best option in view of the evolution of their price? Meaning: in the future, will it be more , or less, difficult to purchase these horns at this price? Or is the SBA (for example) likely to be unobtainable for the same budget as a Mar VI in 5 years?
 
#9 ·
For what it's worth, about 10 years ago, vintage collector Saxgourmet's Value Guide gave these values:

BALANCED ACTION
Alto $ 3400 (eBay completed sales in 2024: 3700) : very little increase

SUPER BALANCED ACTION
Alto $4600 (same price in 2024 on eBay completed sales): no increase

MARK VI 53201 – 236000
Alto $ 6100 but he didn't differentiate years of production. On completed eBay 2024 sales, price varies a lot, all other things being similar, price decreases as serial number increases: around 7000-8000 for 5-digits, 5500 for 1960s, down to 4000 for late 1970s.

So 10 years ago, the SBA was 35% more than the BA
the MVI was 80% more than the BA
the MVI was 32% more than the SBA
 
#11 ·
Hi. Could you help me with mine, I'm trying to sell. Please?? 1931 Selmer Pr-Super Tenor. Relaquered. Still looks like original pads, but they need replacing, and obviously a good service. No dents. Original neck. I've had it over 30 years, never mastered it. I've got pics and will send more if needed. Please, any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards Zan Zeman saxtosell@gmail.com