I can't get the link to work, but I assume it's the T-shaped tool.

You control the length by putting the amount of key barrel into the collet. When swaging keys you really want to make the key barrel slightly longer, then fraise it back to get a nice flat end.

The hexagonal axis is for grip as it's hand held, NOT gripped in a vice or a spanner.

You tighten up the collet with the handle at the top once the key barrel is in place with the screw in the barrel so it doesn't narrow too much, and then twist it holding the hexagonal section as well to swage the key barrel.

 

http://www.ferreestools.com/f80_colletswedge.htm
Here´s the links again.

 

http://www.ferreestools.com/f80_colletswedge.htm

(Had to try it myself)

Thanks!
But, please, what exactly does the process of swedging?

regards

 

Swaging is to lengthen the key tube to remove excessive lateral play between pillars or other keys.

If there is excessive lateral play it can cause pads to leak and regulation problems, though there should be a tiny amount of end play to prevent keys binding up due to temperature changes.

 

Yes, thanks Chris. Was I right assuming that this is achieved by "squeezing" the tube thereby pressing it (narrowing) to the screw axis and thinning of the tube?

 

Yes, the squeezing from the collet also has the effect of lengthening the tubing as it's squeezed against the steel screw inside the tubing - the rod screw is acting like a mandrel inside the tube.

Never swage a key without the screw inside the tube as it will make the tube too narrow.

 

Thanks again. How much work does it generally require after the swaging, reaming etc. to make the key behave the way you want?

How long time, if you average out, is common?
How oftenly can you avoid to do any reaming at all?

 

The amount of swaging to be done and time it takes depends on how much end play there is, and how many keys need swaging, and how much swaging was needed to correct it. But after swaging, only a small amount of cutting back of the key tube (fraising) is needed to ensure a good fit between pillars or other key tubes.

If the keys have a lot of end play (more than 1.5mm), then swaging may not work as well as it will make the ends of the key tube too thin and they'll wear out quickly, and you'll have to use a different method of lengthening the key tube.

You can avoid reaming the key tube if you keep the rod screw inside as the internal diameter shouldn't be affected too much.

Reaming is done on the inside the key tube to increase the internal diameter, and fraising is done to the ends to shorten the length and provide a smooth surface at the ends to prevent uneven wear against other key tubes and pillar faces. After fraising, use a twist drill larger than the key tube to remove any raised burr, and also to countersink the ends very slightly.

 

The hexagonal axis is for grip as it's hand held, NOT gripped in a vice or a spanner.

In our shop when a lot of swedging is required we use a collet tool which has a long bolt braised to the center of the tool perpendicular to it. The bolt goes through a "spacer" which is actually a piece of clarinet body stock and then through a hole drilled into the bench and held with a wing nut and washer. When the job is done it is a simple matter to disassemble and remove from the bench.

By using this device as a "third hand" one hand is free to rotate the key while the other adjusts the tightness of the T handle. It is also useful when swedging keys made of harder metals since more torque can be applied as needed.

One other thought that hasn't been mentioned yet is the use of paraffin wax or thread cutting compound on the key to minimize marks made by the swedging tool to the key and to make the process go a bit smoother.

 

...If the keys have a lot of end play (more than 1.5mm), then swaging may not work as well as it will make the ends of the key tube too thin and they'll wear out quickly, and you'll have to use a different method of lengthening the key tube. ...

On a saxophone, end play is often a result of altered post alignment. Especially if the end play is large, say over 0.5 mm, it would be better to work on the post alignment, IMHO.

BTW, I far prefer to do swedging with hand-held tools, because so much more feedback re alignment is provided via the hands to the brain.