Just to keep the other side of this discussion alive, I have to mention that fluffing is still, IMO, a fine way to get the tiniest leaks out of a pad. Certainly it's not the way to align the pad to the tone hole but, to remove little teeny-tiny leaks I thinks it's just fine. In fact I know of no other technique that works as well to take out miniature leaks at the end of padding.
I've never installed a pad that could not have been made more level. Every pad I've ever installed leaks to some tiny degree and every horn that I overhaul leaks when I give it back to the player. I think it's impossible that one could ever install a pad made of felt and leather and not have it leak to some degree. It may not leak air when the player plays or when gravity or a spring is holding the pad closed but, when I lower the pad to the tone hole in a pitch black room so slowly, one part of that pad hits the tone hole before the others. If I let gravity hold the pad shut maybe the light is gone but at some level, that pad leaks. I think we could spend our lives on one horn or even one pad trying to make it better and better. That said, how is everyone getting out the tiniest little leaks at the end of their padding jobs. Is it possible that we're not talking about the same procedure here or that we are talking about different levels leak removal?
Gordon, as far as manufacturers go, I don't really get that point. This year I've overhauled 3 Selmer Series IIIs. This summer I have two more coming. Two of them were brand new from the box. The players just wanted me to overhaul them using my pads and my tuning techniques. The horns both leaked badly from the box and there was not too much glue behind the pads. I don't believe that the manufacturers are the place to look for inspiration when setting up a horn. I've also done some new Yamahas and they leak too. In fact, I repaired tone holes, key work, reppadded and set up all of these horns. They played great when I was done but only played OK when they came to me.
