I had wondered about these. Never found any info on them. I nearly bought one, but decided against it because I wasn't sure what kind of plastic/material was used. Ultimately I bought a Bari Hybrid used locally for slightly more and love it.

You should post a sound clip of it! I'd like to hear it.

 

So the maker can say "this design is copied from a Meyer 6M hard rubber alto mouthpiece," yet leave you completely in the dark as to what model, era, iteration or spec of Meyer was copied. Many thousands of Meyer (or MeYeR) mouthpieces have been manufactured over several decades. Which one inspired this clone?

Similarly, PLA is a catch-all term for polylactide-based plastics whose properties can vary depending on which fillers, additives, solvents, plasticizers, dyes, temperatures & methods were used in processing. While PLA has useful properties, items made from it may prove brittle when struck or dropped on hard surfaces.

If your new mouthpiece pleases you, great. The low price makes it attractive too. Me, I wouldn't consider buying one unless the maker can provide a whole lot more very specific info up front. Regardless of pedigree, one would still be purchasing a pig in a poke -- i.e., an item whose attributes or flaws remain hidden until some time has elapsed.

 

So the maker can say "this design is copied from a Meyer 6M hard rubber alto mouthpiece," yet leave you completely in the dark as to what model, era, iteration or spec of Meyer was copied. Many thousands of Meyer (or MeYeR) mouthpieces have been manufactured over several decades. Which one inspired this clone?

Ditto. I did ask (even with my limited Meyer knowledge), and did not get a response. Agreed on all your other points. For me, I wanted a second mouthpiece for my Conn 6M if I am in a pinch that was cheap. And I don't play alto very much.

 

I glossed over these on eBay recently, wasn't willing to "go there" really.

I tend to provide free mouthpieces with my refurbed horns, usually used, usually cleaned up and in good shape if I have them around. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. When I don't I usually go to a Bari Esprit kit, for around $25 cap, lig, piece.

They are better than a Yama 4C And only around $6 more than the cheapest available Chinese plastic ones under various names for around $15-20..

But I may try one of these just for kicks, if you say it plays ok.

 

I glossed over these on eBay recently, wasn't willing to "go there" really.

I tend to provide free mouthpieces with my refurbed horns, usually used, usually cleaned up and in good shape if I have them around. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. When I don't I usually go to a Bari Esprit kit, for around $25 cap, lig, piece.

They are better than a Yama 4C And only around $6 more than the cheapest available Chinese plastic ones under various names for around $15-20..

But I may try one of these just for kicks, if you say it plays ok.
[/QUOTE

Jaye, you just put the pressure on me I think it sounds good. Then again, I don't play much alto

 

I am more concerned that it seems to blow easily. Like, a difficult-blowing mouthpiece means they screwed up something in the fabrication or geometry.

Nothing funky in how it speaks, nothing strange or resistant in how it blows, that is about where my bar is set on providing a free mouthpiece with a horn of mine, y'know ?

 

I bought a similar 3D printed alto mouthpiece on ebay a while ago (in black), probably from the same person although can't recall the account name. I thought the tip/rails were finished pretty well and it played easily, though I am no expert or judge of mouthpieces. I respect that he seems to have focused on just doing one thing well - just one design, with a small variation in the tip opening, not "we can custom 3D print every mouthpiece shape under the sun." However, if he made a similarly-bargain tenor piece, I would try it.

I expect it won't be as durable or as suited for generic-mouthpiece-duty as a conventionally molded Yamaha 4C or Bari Esprit; perhaps suited to someone more careful than the average student. But IMO it does sound better than a Yamaha 4C.

 

My understanding of 3D printing filaments is that PETG would be preferred over PLA. PLA is somewhat biodegradeable and softer than PETG. PETG is used for food utensils, it’s non-toxic and is stiffer. Cost is about the same. For my 3D printed reed case things, I chose PETG for those reasons.

 

For me, PETG is a little more difficult to print and does not produce edge details as well as PLAs. I use PETG for parts that need a little more strength or will be exposed to heat. All my 3D printed mouthpieces I play on are PLA. They seem like they will hold up for decades, like other plastics.

 

That’s good to know, thanks Keith. I don’t own a 3D printer, I just use a 3D printing service, and that’s what they say about the filaments. The reed case inserts I have had 3D printed in PETG are outstanding. The only FDM 3D printed mouthpiece I have played is one I got from SYOS a few years ago, and I am not impressed.

I quite like the resin printed one I have from GetASax. And I got to see the new ones being done by Theo Wanne, they are very nice, I’m thinking of buying one. These are also a resin print.

 

3D printing services are a great value if you have your design locked in. The services have their processes dialed in or they take the hit until they do. I have used them for printing aluminum and stainless steel.

SYOS uses ABS. More difficult to print than PETG and you need a hood to do it well. SYOS had a new material offering now. I have not seen it but I would bet it is a resin. Resin needs a ventilated hood. I think it is the best future path for 3D printed mouthpieces that will appeal to the general market. They look better than fdm printed mouthpieces.

 

Resin needs a ventilated hood. I think it is the best future path for 3D printed mouthpieces that will appeal to the general market. They look better than fdm printed mouthpieces.

PLA's easier to use overall, but weaker, rougher (without finishing), and less food-safe, and it tends to degrade faster.

Resin's definitely preferable to FDM with PLA or any material, as it provides a much smoother surface without additional finishing. But it is more challenging to print, and a lot messier, without a high-end setup.

For PETG, Prusament and ColorFabb nGen brands are easier to print than some, if a bit more costly. And there are trade-offs in the process. For instance, printing without any fan cooling will produce stronger layer adhesion and tougher overall prints with a glossier finish, but using the cooling fan will provide better detail with a matte finish. It's also really sensitive to travel and retraction speed, and if not set properly can cause a gooey mess.

 

PLA is not good for reed cases I have tried to make. The spring part that holds the reeds in deforms quickly and get loose. Same with some mouthpiece caps I have made. I need to try PETG.