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Discussion Starter #1
How to take apart bell to body connection on YAS-62, not soldered but glue holds very hard, I tried to apply some heath but no help. I'm afraid not to bend/brake something.
Any tips on this?

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Disconnect the bell to body brace if you haven't done so already. Loosen the screws on the locking ring and move it away from the joint. Carefully try to "wobble" the joint loose by moving the parts back and forth. If this doesn't work apply heat using a small butane torch moving the flame around the seam heating evenly all the way around. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BURN PADS IN THE AREA---DIRECT THE FLAME AWAY FROM THE PADS. The joint is held together with epoxy which will release when heated. Don't worry about burning the lacquer. Yamaha expoxy lacquer is one of the most heat tolerant lacquers in the industry. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you, I was trying just like that, but it really holds very hard, the keys are removed from the horn, so I don't have to worry about pads, will try again tomorrow...
 

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thank you, I was trying just like that, but it really holds very hard, the keys are removed from the horn, so I don't have to worry about pads, will try again tomorrow...
You might also try tapping the seam using a small plastic or rawhide hammer. That can help break the bond as well. When I do this operation in my shop I mount the sax on a wooden "piano leg" mandrel covered with socks. When it is firmly in place this allows the body section to be moved up and down as I am heating the seam. Ferree's Tools sells the wooden holder.

 

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How did you heat it? It is usually glued with epoxy that loses its gluing around 150C degrees. You need to get the area that touch the epoxy that hot, and as much of it as possible (if a few small areas still hold you might be able to jiggle it off still). How did you heat it?
I assume you opened the ring and removed the key guard that is attached on both sides of this joint.
 

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Sounds like not hot enough.
 

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You might also try tapping the seam using a small plastic or rawhide hammer. That can help break the bond as well. When I do this operation in my shop I mount the sax on a wooden "piano leg" mandrel covered with socks. When it is firmly in place this allows the body section to be moved up and down as I am heating the seam. Ferree's Tools sells the wooden holder.

That's the longest sock I've ever seen! ;-)
 

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You might also try tapping the seam using a small plastic or rawhide hammer. That can help break the bond as well. When I do this operation in my shop I mount the sax on a wooden "piano leg" mandrel covered with socks. When it is firmly in place this allows the body section to be moved up and down as I am heating the seam. Ferree's Tools sells the wooden holder.

John, do you know if that's 70C or 70D from Ferree's?
https://www.ferreestoolsinc.com/products/o70-wood-assembly-mandrel?variant=3185636484
Thank you!
John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What was the key to your success? What did you do differently?
I just followed those instructions, just be patient...

Disconnect the bell to body brace if you haven't done so already. Loosen the screws on the locking ring and move it away from the joint. Carefully try to "wobble" the joint loose by moving the parts back and forth. If this doesn't work apply heat using a small butane torch moving the flame around the seam heating evenly all the way around. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BURN PADS IN THE AREA---DIRECT THE FLAME AWAY FROM THE PADS. The joint is held together with epoxy which will release when heated. Don't worry about burning the lacquer. Yamaha expoxy lacquer is one of the most heat tolerant lacquers in the industry. Good luck.
 

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I just followed those instructions, just be patient...
Patience! Hah, I’d get a bigger hammer and a bigger torch. :twisted: It’s already obvious that John (aka “saxoclese”) carries a Really Big Stick (RBS). :shock:

Thank you. Glad to hear that worked.
 
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