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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone advise on a replacement pad for this sop - this is the pad with a hole, with another pad above that closes when the upper stack keys are depressed.

Kurt from MusicMedic sent me a nice Rooskin replacement, but on dismantling mine it turned out to be a rubbery substance rather than leather - and in any case the new one wouldn't fit without modification.

I've just had the opportunity to borrow a MkVI, on which the equivalent pad is thick cork and the key much higher, so that won't help.

Anybody know what I need, where I can get it, and (if it's rubber) how to stick it in?
 

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A cork pad is the best for this purpose provided the tonehole is perfectly flat for it to seat on.
 

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JerryJamz2 said:
There are a lot of good synthetic pads for this purpose. Find a reputable tech and repair shop and this should be a 2 minute fix.
Hi Jerry

Can you give a few examples of the good sythetic pads and possibly where to order them from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK - that's one vote for cork, one for synthetic! Would anyone like to state the advantages of either, since both sound fine (or to be accurate the synthetic on the Yani DID sound great until it was b-ed)?

Chris - would that be something like a drilled oboe pad? The one on the MkVI seems to have a thin leather top layer. Shellac to secure?

Jerry - I echo Clarnibass's query. And add my own about what adhesive to use if I leave my tech out of the loop.
 

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It's pretty much the same as a perforated oboe pad found on the split D#-E mechanism (RH finger 3 on a full Gillet conservatoire system).

Get a cork pad of the correct diameter as the inside of the pad cup, then make a hole through the middle of it (with a sharp punch and a round file - but twist the punch through the cork rather than pushing it as it'll break up the cork) so it's tight with the chimney inside the pad cup. You can then fit it by glueing it well into the pad cup (with shellac), then trimming it to almost the right height (but left a bit too thick) with a razor and then grinding it on fine abrasive (such as several grades of pumice that have been ground flat on emery paper laid on a surface plate or glass, or emery paper glued onto glass) until it seats all the way around the tonehole, and that an even amount of cork is showing around the edge of the pad cup rather than uneven, looking like a horse hoof.

Or, before glueing it in, grind the face flat with several grades of pumice (or emery paper) and then trim it to the correct thickness, then float it in with shellac making sure it's airtight when tested in the pad cup (test it by blocking the hole on the pad with a finger and sucking the air from the top of the hole in the pad cup).

It's not necessary to face a cork pad with leather provided it seats (and there's less chance of it sticking), and you'll barely notice any noise from this pad as it closes against the tonehole.
 

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Nitai,

We don't like using leather or cork pads on sax octave keys. Often the top edges of the vent tubes are sharp (and have a pointed dome) and tend to act as a "cookie cutter" and punch a hole in the leather, and I don't like cork as it tends to crack, has interior imperfections which can not be seen and if there is any side-to-side movement of the keys, cork tends to keep it's original seat because of memory, and tendency is to leak. Synthetics are a little more foregiving and don't develop a deep seat. They are also impervious to saliva and moisture and being black in color don't show dirt or wear. We've used Kraus synthetic waterkey pads, OmniPads, and have even cut our own from various materials. The newer generation of Valentino pads also work well. As far as the adhesive used, any quality glue will work in this instance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys - I'll use cork at the front, synthetic at the back and hold it all together with wallpaper paste.
 

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Thanks Jerry. I'm about to order from Kraus and since I can't make small order often can you tell me what sizes of Omni pads and especially the synthetic waterkey pads you used for octave keys? I'm guessing you only use the thinner ones (3.2mm and not the 4.8mm)?

Hmm... maybe I'll get some to use on waterkeys too. Can you say which sizes you use most, for trumpets and possibly trombones.

Thanks!
 

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clarnibass said:
Thanks Jerry. I'm about to order from Kraus and since I can't make small order often can you tell me what sizes of Omni pads and especially the synthetic waterkey pads you used for octave keys? I'm guessing you only use the thinner ones (3.2mm and not the 4.8mm)?

Hmm... maybe I'll get some to use on waterkeys too. Can you say which sizes you use most, for trumpets and possibly trombones.

Thanks!
Nitai,

8.5, 9, 9.5, 10 in both thicknesses for synthetic waterkey pads are needed in our shop. Due to poor alignment of waterkeys to the spuds from the factories will require you have both on hand.

You will be able to use the same size Omni-pads you would typically use on any normal sax octave key pad cup in terms of diameter. I only have limited trial use and applications of the Omni-pads to draw my information from. We have only used them for any length of time so far on piccolo repads, as they are often subject to marching band and the foul weather often associated with it. We do have some installed on various instruments on an experimental basis, so the jury's still out. Sax octave pads are one of them. No complaints so far though. Lots of well respected techs whom you know on Delphi rave about them. Perhaps they might be able to give you some input here also.

Thickness is another issue. We're trying to figure that out and narrow it down as we speak. You might want to email Ed and ask his suggestions, or perhaps the charts at the bottom of his NAPBIRT conference handout will help;

http://www.krausmusic.com/miscinfo/nap2006.pdf
 

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potiphar said:
Thanks guys - I'll use cork at the front, synthetic at the back and hold it all together with wallpaper paste.
LOL

Think of it like a very thin gasket moreso than a pad. Sacrifice a regular kid leather saxophone pad - using just the pad leather, shape a gasket and attach it with a very thin layer of contact cement. Or wallpaper paste. Whichever is handier.

The leather works well as it is slightly pliable and will take on the required shape without significant settling or compression.
 
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