Yanagisawa horns touch
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Well, coming from a Selmer that was an absolute bear to play, it feels great to me. Regarding your second question, in my area (Columbus, OH) I have only seen 1 Yanagisawa for sale and I think if has been for sale for the past 3 years. I have bought both of my Yanagisawas from Chuck Levins and they have a good selection (and great prices).
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Here in Vancouver there are several dealers for Yanagisawa. I've never played one, though. I think the word you're looking for is "feel" not "touch".
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I just bought my Yanagisawa A992 in August, and I really like it. The touch, or feel, is one of the things that really attracted me to it. It is lighter than a lot of new horns out there. I like the ergonomics a lot, except for the front-F key. I had to have it adjusted for my taste, but it still isn't exactly how I would like it. If you ever need anyone to try things out for Yanagisawa, I'd love to help! Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Mine are perfect - all of them (S992, SC902, S901 currently owned; previously owned A992, 880 alto, an early Elimona soprano -dual-neck, and a Dorado 600 sop). My recently acquired S901 is just as good as my favorite 1928 Buescher sop as far as the springing goes . . . light to the touch and solid response.
The thing that bugs me on the newer models is the lacquer - poor, in my opinion. I add this because most of the touches on my sopranos have turned rough because of the lacquer wear. And since you asked about the touches - there you have it.
I don't consider the poor lacquer to be a fatal flaw because the rest of the horns are superb. DAVE
The thing that bugs me on the newer models is the lacquer - poor, in my opinion. I add this because most of the touches on my sopranos have turned rough because of the lacquer wear. And since you asked about the touches - there you have it.
I don't consider the poor lacquer to be a fatal flaw because the rest of the horns are superb. DAVE
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Hi Tom: No.
After I read your question, I got out one of my '28 TT's and played it next to the S901. They both felt about the same - both very precise and easy to manipulate.
I eye-balled the key openings in the stack and both horns had about the same key-heigths. I also stood them side by side and they are the same length.
The S901 has slightly better intonation (by ear) and a little more depth to the tone, but either of my TT's are suitable for ensemble work (in that their intonation is good - but not as good as the S901's nor my S992's). DAVE
After I read your question, I got out one of my '28 TT's and played it next to the S901. They both felt about the same - both very precise and easy to manipulate.
I eye-balled the key openings in the stack and both horns had about the same key-heigths. I also stood them side by side and they are the same length.
The S901 has slightly better intonation (by ear) and a little more depth to the tone, but either of my TT's are suitable for ensemble work (in that their intonation is good - but not as good as the S901's nor my S992's). DAVE
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7,163 Posts
The action and ergos are stellar on the A990-u that I own.
I like the pearl key touch on the front F, changed to brass on the A991.
I much prefer pearl key touches,when it's real MOP.
Yani should improve their quality of lacquer AND their application.There are a few crummy swipes and missed spots om mine.No one wants to see this on a new horn (not mine).
Are there enough Yani's in the US? What do you think guys? I say send more horns.
I like the pearl key touch on the front F, changed to brass on the A991.
I much prefer pearl key touches,when it's real MOP.
Yani should improve their quality of lacquer AND their application.There are a few crummy swipes and missed spots om mine.No one wants to see this on a new horn (not mine).
Are there enough Yani's in the US? What do you think guys? I say send more horns.
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5,409 Posts
Compared to my older sax, The keys are not as thick (which is actually a good thing) and it appeared to me like it had a better feel. When I play my A902, I feel like I'm more in control and have the ability to play faster maybe just because the distance between the key and hole is shorter...
Now I know I'm thinking too hard.
Now I know I'm thinking too hard.
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14,671 Posts
Tom: Actually, no. But that is good advice for all of us. That's exactly what I was doing (taking a break, really) when I read your post. I'm practicing . . . are you? DAVE
Hello everbody
Thank you very much for a lot of opinions.Besides,short English lesson.I'm still English learner, so teach me if use funny words.
I wanted to know ......I don't know how do I express.About key springs.gravity?weight?I'm not sure which word is correct. Tell me key feeling,heavy or light,especially about new models.
About Lacquer, we improved now. I knew that reputations.Thank you for the advices.
I'm in this forum,not in official just private.Let me tell you it again.thank you.
Thank you very much for a lot of opinions.Besides,short English lesson.I'm still English learner, so teach me if use funny words.
I wanted to know ......I don't know how do I express.About key springs.gravity?weight?I'm not sure which word is correct. Tell me key feeling,heavy or light,especially about new models.
About Lacquer, we improved now. I knew that reputations.Thank you for the advices.
I'm in this forum,not in official just private.Let me tell you it again.thank you.
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14,671 Posts
HIDESAKU: I thought I answered your opening questions, but here it is again.
My Yanagisawas' springs are light to the touch but not in a bad way. The keywork is easy to manipulate and it gives just the right amount of resistance so they recover their position after closing a tone hole and/or re-opening it.
I've purchased all of my Yanagisawas in the U.S.A. Some dealers have them - and some don't. Where I trade, they have them. DAVE
My Yanagisawas' springs are light to the touch but not in a bad way. The keywork is easy to manipulate and it gives just the right amount of resistance so they recover their position after closing a tone hole and/or re-opening it.
I've purchased all of my Yanagisawas in the U.S.A. Some dealers have them - and some don't. Where I trade, they have them. DAVE
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response and question
I own a S981 and B901 (and recently tried a S991, S992, and A992) and feel that the key resistance, ie the effort it takes to push down on a key, is much too strong. Other than that, they are wonderful horns.
Question: I am having a bronze neck fitted to my B901 and understand that the bore of the bronze necks is different than that of the brass necks. Is that the case, and why?
Thanks for the info!
I own a S981 and B901 (and recently tried a S991, S992, and A992) and feel that the key resistance, ie the effort it takes to push down on a key, is much too strong. Other than that, they are wonderful horns.
Question: I am having a bronze neck fitted to my B901 and understand that the bore of the bronze necks is different than that of the brass necks. Is that the case, and why?
Thanks for the info!
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4,518 Posts
HIDESAKU: I've had my T992 for about a year (since new). I initially found the springing too stiff, although responsive (likely due to the careful design to use long springs). Just recently, I went through and did an annual PM on the horn and lightened the springs. This has improved playability greatly and decreased playing fatigue.
On the lacquer however, I am not too pleased. After only one year there is much wear on the touches, and the horn is far too easy to scratch. I use a plastic clip straphook and that has scratched the horn more than I have ever seen in so short a time. There are also sags, runs and waviness in several of the large areas. Same is true for my older S990 and A990. My B991 (also relatively new does seem to be somewhat better in appearance, but the lacquer is showing signs of early wear.
Truth is, though...I don't care that much! Love the horn.
I also have as backups A880 and T880; they both look terrible for horns of their age. The T880 has corrosion under the remaining lacquer in a spotty appearance and the A880 has almost no lacquer remaining. Both are repair and dent-free.
As background, because of stress injuries I replaced all of my Keilwerth and King horns with Yanagisawa as the best-sounding horn I could find with modern ergonomics. My Keilwerths had very rugged lacquer.
On the lacquer however, I am not too pleased. After only one year there is much wear on the touches, and the horn is far too easy to scratch. I use a plastic clip straphook and that has scratched the horn more than I have ever seen in so short a time. There are also sags, runs and waviness in several of the large areas. Same is true for my older S990 and A990. My B991 (also relatively new does seem to be somewhat better in appearance, but the lacquer is showing signs of early wear.
Truth is, though...I don't care that much! Love the horn.
I also have as backups A880 and T880; they both look terrible for horns of their age. The T880 has corrosion under the remaining lacquer in a spotty appearance and the A880 has almost no lacquer remaining. Both are repair and dent-free.
As background, because of stress injuries I replaced all of my Keilwerth and King horns with Yanagisawa as the best-sounding horn I could find with modern ergonomics. My Keilwerths had very rugged lacquer.
Hidesaku san,
I guess you are the one to ask. I have a Yanagisawa A880 which I bought in Kobe Japan in 1992 new. I am interested in selling it but do not know what is an honest price to ask for it. Only played on and off for about 3 to 4 years.
Your advice would be appreciated.
I guess you are the one to ask. I have a Yanagisawa A880 which I bought in Kobe Japan in 1992 new. I am interested in selling it but do not know what is an honest price to ask for it. Only played on and off for about 3 to 4 years.
Your advice would be appreciated.
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It is quite a simple matter for a technician to lighten the key action to your preference...I have done so with all my Yanis. Also, the necks on my T992 and T880 are identical in tenon diameter...remarkably so, as are the necks on my A990 and A880.rdf2 said:
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Yanagisawa saxes are easy to find thanks to the internet.
A few local shops here in Pittsburgh have them too.
My S6 is a bit old so my opinion is probably not worth anything.
I love the feel of my S6 and my ONLY complaint would be how the metal exposed from the lacquer coming off looks like red rust instead of the dark brass color I would expect.
A few local shops here in Pittsburgh have them too.
My S6 is a bit old so my opinion is probably not worth anything.
I love the feel of my S6 and my ONLY complaint would be how the metal exposed from the lacquer coming off looks like red rust instead of the dark brass color I would expect.
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Dave, agree with you on all accounts.Dave Dolson said:
I, personally, hate the rough feel on the metal touches. Any horns that i have played that get this way, I just sand the touch surface flat with wet-dry, starting with 120 grit, proceeding through 280-->600-->Wenol polish. From that point on, they stay smooth and just tarnish slightly to a nice color. I do this on palms, side keys and table keys freely. Takes 3-4 minutes any time you have the key off the horn.
My theory is that Yani lacquer has pinholes in it (common with poorly applied surface coatings. Environmental contaminants (from the air as well as our skin) get in and are trapped between the lacquer and the metal and locally etch/react, eventually leaving a pit and undermining the adhesion of the lacquer. This is different from the flux residue left underneath the lacquer by, for example, Selmer in the 80s.
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