I don’t necessarily believe a YTS 23 would be more likely to not need as much work.
Most of those I’ve seen have been owned by high school students who haven’t looked after them well.
Although the ones at the upper end price wise (also usually in better condition) would be a good choice.
Skill level doesn’t determine whether you should play a modern or vintage horn.
But a Yamaha 23 or 32 etc would be easier to offload in the future should you wish to.
Having said that, if I could find a nice The Martin in that price range that doesn’t need work, I’d jump on it in a heartbeat.
Well-said.
By virtue of the fact a horn is of a certain model...this does not imbue it with magical qualities of good condition and playability.
I do wish people would stop making that quite specious assumption.
I refurb Martins. I refurb Conns. I refurb Grassis and Beaugniers and old JK's. I refurb Yamahas. I would in NO way say that the Yamas which come thru here necessarily needed LESS work than any other make.
I disagree. I think most beginner tenor players will have a much easier time playing a YTS-23 in tune than, say, a Conn 10M. Doesn't mean it can't be done or that the 10M is a bad horn, but it requires more of the player..
Aaaaaah...but as the comparison, you chose the most FINICKY well-known vintage model one can think of
. So...not quite fair. (Especially since good-shape 10M's don't cost $1200 :|).
If someone suggested a YTS 23 will play more in tune, or be 'easier' to play.... than a Martin, or most Kings or Booshes, for example (????) :|
That is simply not so...unless the Yama is well-regulated and the Martin/King etc. is poorly regulated.
Put a well regulated Indiana or Cleve or 'Crat up against a well-regulated 23 or 62.....and the Japanese horns will not naturally 'play more in tune'. Nor blow more 'easily'. Nor be more responsive under the fingers to a player already familiar with an older horn.
A Martin made starting from the Comm I's and later as a rule do not have 'intrinsic' intonation problems, nor are they resistant blowers. Certainly won't be for a player who used to play an S20. (Yes there are outlier tales of horns which needed significant adjustments to bring into tune....but mind you there are also outlier tales of folks who have had intonation issues with their Yamahas). A Yamaha with neglected keyheight adjustments or a couple of significant leaks will not by any means blow straight-arrow, either.
So...to the OP: if you wanna just buy the Toyota Corolla...buy the Toyota Corolla, y'know ? It's a car, it's reliable, 'affordable' - it has a good track record, it provides transport. If you just want a reliable car and don't have time or desire to think about it too much....it'd be hard to argue the Corolla would be a bad choice. It'd be a solid default choice.
But....are there cars out there which offer more, for the same price ? Yup.
You get the drift. You are not a beginner-beginner. You played an S20 once, so you already are familiar with good vintage horns. With a $1.2g budget you can do BETTER than a Yama 23, if you so choose to. If you said your budget was $675, then perhaps the argument for the 23 becomes stronger...(in most people's opinions).
Martin Indiana, Marin Comm I, maybe a nicer Buescher 'Crat before they were dumbed down, a good JK stencil, a Beaugnier (Vito, Noblet), King Cleveland or a sweet-spot King Zephyr...hell even a B&S Blue on occasion...I could go on....most will be available in the $1200 zone, decent playing. They would be in the same neighborhood of 'characteristics' as your old 20.
Hard to argue that a 23 is 'superior' to any of those, quite honestly.
Of course, whether vintage or not, make sure seller guarantees they are in good playing shape. If seller will not do that, then lower your available budget by at least $450 to put into tech work. If you happen to come across one which is truly approaching 'project' horn, however - don't get involved with it.
