Sax on the Web Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yeesh that is a long title!
On my (relatively older) Custom EX alto, I don't like the way the right hand pinky table is set up... in fact, I hate it. The D# touch sits very high - when I have the key fully depressed, it's about where I would want it when the key is closed. Switching from D# to C is a breeze, but going back with any measure of speed or comfort is impossible for me due to the absurd gap.
Any techs out there have any ideas how to approach this? Is it possible to bend the arm down without breaking/grinding anything? I have plenty of room underneath the touch.

Did Yamaha change this on later Custom altos? I know my 2013 EX tenor is exactly the way I want it on the RH pinky table, but I don't have access to a store to compare against a current alto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
Yeesh that is a long title!
On my (relatively older) Custom EX alto, I don't like the way the right hand pinky table is set up... in fact, I hate it. The D# touch sits very high - when I have the key fully depressed, it's about where I would want it when the key is closed. Switching from D# to C is a breeze, but going back with any measure of speed or comfort is impossible for me due to the absurd gap.
Any techs out there have any ideas how to approach this? Is it possible to bend the arm down without breaking/grinding anything? I have plenty of room underneath the touch.

Did Yamaha change this on later Custom altos? I know my 2013 EX tenor is exactly the way I want it on the RH pinky table, but I don't have access to a store to compare against a current alto.
First thing I'd look at is the low C adjustment. It may be cranked way in thus making that key low. Changing that adjustment is totally reversible.

If you bend down the D# key, you'll be affecting its opening too, so you have to make sure you have enough cork underneath to restore the opening (I assume there's a post under the key touch that's the stop). You may choose to bend the C key up instead, because that opening is governed by the felt on the key guard.

It's not uncommon at all to need to bend some keys down there. For all you know the previous owner wanted more of a drop from D# to C. But as I said, I would first look at the low C's felt bumper before bending things.

The trick in bending keys is to make sure you are NOT bending the tube that the axle runs through, or the arm that holds the pad cup (thus tilting the pad on the tone hole). You may need to take the key off and hold it, just so, in a pliers or vise, while bending, to make sure you are only bending what you want to bend. It's not particularly difficult (I have done some version of this to most if not all the horns I own, at some point) but you do need to pay attention to the possibility of unintended consequences.

If you don't have good manual dexterity or a feeling for mechanical work, you may choose to take it to a shop instead, where the repair person can do this in a few minutes for very little money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Actually the C bumper is very nearly as high as it can go, and the key height is right on. The keyguard was pushed in when I bought the horn but I fixed that a while ago, this horn just likes that pad opened up.

At least I'm not the only one with this issue. I'll just have to look at which key I want to move (leaning towards D# right now actually).
Oh, the D# key height is also governed by a bumper and adjustment screw. AFAIK Yamahas have always done that.

Thanks for the help brainstorming!
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top