SearjeantSax said:
think that would be too hot, silver solder needs a very low temperature to melt sufficiently.
you can get soldering irons which are meant to not burn you, its like a soft rubbery tip which melts solder and silver solder but wouldnt burn you if you touch it, apparently they work well on silver solder.
Even standard tin/lead soft solders demand a decent butane torch when working on horns; soldering irons are only used by people in the electronics field, for tiny connections on circuit boards etc. and are typically too weak to evenly and quickly heat enough of the surface area required for joining comparatively "large" sax parts (usually post or keyguard ferrules or 8ve pips to the body proper).
The lead-free solders (mostly tin with 2-5% silver) are sometimes called "low-temp" silver solders, creating confusion for some people, but these are just another soft solder product and they require at least as much flame heat as other soft solders to melt and flash.
Also, though "brazing" and "hard soldering" or "silver soldering" are commonly used interchangeably, I'm told that brazing as a task performed by welders (haven't done it myself) with brazing rods typically calls for a good oxy-acetylene torch, as the filler material in brazing rod requires much higher temps to melt than your average silver solder.
Caution: You need a different flux for silver soldering work (some people make a homebrew flux with borax and distilled water) and you need something like an old stone crockpot with a heated "pickling solution" (there are several, Sparex is the most common) to clean the silver-soldered parts effectively after they've been joined. If you do this stuff indoors, have excellent ventilation. Otherwise get a ventilator mask with filters for welding work. I think 3M sells a disposable version, can't remember the part # offhand. Flux fumes can cause serious respiratory distress.....