It truly isn't as old as '32, as Milandro noted, the sheet metal keyguards indicate that. I have refurbed Lindells both with wire and sheet metal guards, and the sheet guard ones appeared to me to be '50's-60's-ish horns based upon their other details.
"Rare" is a relative term.
It can mean "you don't see many around these parts (US)".....or "of the # of saxophones around, not many are Alphonse" ...or "Alphonse's factory didn't produce a whole lotta saxophones" .....in which case that definition of 'rare' would be true.
But if "Rare" takes on the intimation of 'valuable' or 'sought after'...then your horn doesn't meet the second definition.
As Milandro notes.....an Alphonse Tenor in good playing shape has a pretty low market value (around $400-500 these days, maybe).
It is also quite possible if someone posted a Lindell Tenor in good shape on eBay for $400-500...it would sit on eBay for many months with no bites.
Now....in regards to your list, and the future of this sax:
1) the BIG issue is the missing Low Eb and C keys (and their posts). Saxes, especially vintage ones, do not use 'generic' sorta replacement parts. The specifications of parts are specific to the horn's mfr. And this horn's mfr. no longer exists.
Soooooo...this is a challenge.
If I had it in MY shop, I could likely do it. Only because I have around 25 cadaver 'parts' horns which I can try various C and Eb keys/posts from and likely find a pair that will work (not sure what I'd do about finding red rollers, however - perhaps a bead shop ? (no, not a joke, I mean it)
)
But given YOU do not have 25 parts horns, I am not sure how I would proceed if I were you. The only option, I would say, would be to find a tech who feels they can match up those keys for you (or you can send me the horn and I'll try my best).
2) Finish - Let it Be What it Is. Forget relacquering (it costs $2000 for a Tenor, professionally....and any spray on home-job is gonna look really, really horrible within a couple months). While just having it chem bathed and hand-polished will make it look like a nice ol' vintage horn.
3) Neck - the neck fits loosely ? Does it appear to be the original neck ? If it is a really bad fit, it could be it isn't the original neck. If it is original, then again as MIandro notes, the neck tenon would need to be expanded, likely. But if the neck is not original and the fit is very loose...it could well be that in order for that neck to fit, a new tenon may be required.
But before we get to that, one would want to see if at least the neck seems to intone the horn body decently...which means wrapping the existing tenon in some plumbers teflon tape until it fits snugly in the socket, and playtesting a few notes in different registers using an electronic tuner.
4) Octave key - not sure exactly what the issue is here. Do you mean the neck has no octave key ? That isn't a difficult fix for an experienced tech, or a headstrong amateur who knows how to soft solder - because the Neck Octave Key IS actually one of the FEW pieces of an old sax which can be replaced with a modern, generic part (a Yamaha part, for example...or a key and saddle off of a cheap chinese eFlay neck).
BUT, if you mean the octave MECHANISM on the horn body....THEN, again...see comment 1). Because octave mechs are as individual to different horn makes as can be. So it might require a complete octave mech 'transplant' from a donor sax, similar to what would need to be done in 1) for the spat keys.
Doable...but again you need some source parts horns to find a suitable match...AND you need to find someone who can soft-solder well.
5) Repad - from appearances, the least of your challenges. Pads, of course, are not maker-specific and a repad is relatively straightforward - it is even the kind of thing a DIY novice can take a shot at (there are kits and manuals available online, as well as Youtube vid tutorials).
6) Missing guards and feet - no huge deal, again, HERE is where generic modern parts or donor horn parts would work just fine.
Whew...well...YOU asked
.
So there are my suggestions.
IF this horn came into my shop and the owner wanted to do what you wanted to do, I would charge around $500-600 and it would take me about 4 weeks to turn it around, just because of the missing keys stuff.
Most techs would charge more like $1000+, easily....and they would badmouth this horn something ferocious (although one in a complete state and playable is NOT a BAD instrument).
Soooo....IF one wanted to do this themselves, I would say the spat keys, the neck fitting, the new keyguards, and possibly the octave key situation is beyond the means of 95% of novices...meaning one would have to 'sub' that work out to a professional tech and that work, plus a chem bath, would probably run around $400-500 (I'd do it for $300).
While the cleaning, repadding, recorking/re-felting/lubing/etc. IS something a dedicated novice/weekend repair warrior could try their own hand at, thus potentially 'saving' them around $300-400 over having a tech do that scope as well (although consider that the quality of the repad, etc would not match that of a pro repair person; and the novice would likely have to return to his work repeatedly to make tweaks, partial re-do's, and adjustments as the horn settled and likely went out of regulation a few times...but still, a very good learning experience).
So its conceivable that an alternate Rx for this horn could be that: sub out the work which is beyond a novice repairer, and then take a shot at the rest yourself (or perhaps some home repairer/tinkerer that you know ?)
![20181119_000223[1].jpg](/d3/attachments/25/25587-d57689b9e3384860662b6e64193ce2b9.jpg)
