[RREXX]

I have a 1934 King H.N. White that feels like I have to have a completely different embouchure to make it play.
And when I do adjust to it, its mostly fine, except any and all notes above Octave G run really sharp, with B even being a half step sharp!

I play mostly a Otto Link STM 7* and Jody Jazz HR* 6m, but even with my Rousseau JDX 7 I still have this problem, which leads me to believe it is the sax.

I don't have this issue on my soprano, or on tenor.

Any tips?

 

[lllebret]

I would tune so that the overtones that give me those pitches (2nd g and above) are in, and see if the regular fingering are sharp to the overtones. If so, then I would try bringing down the key height in the left hand.

 

[bruce bailey]

Perhaps both the neck and body octave keys are opening at the same time since it is where the transition occurs. Hold the horn up not playing and finger G where only the body key opens. Then finger A and only the neck should open alone. Another fix may be to fill in the pip on the neck so that it is a bit smaller and not venting as much.

 

[RREXX]

Perhaps both the neck and body octave keys are opening at the same time since it is where the transition occurs. Hold the horn up not playing and finger G where only the body key opens. Then finger A and only the neck should open alone. Another fix may be to fill in the pip on the neck so that it is a bit smaller and not venting as much.

I can confirm that they do open separately, and it's nice to see you're still here lol I'm fairly certain I bought this horn off of you! I get a lot of compliments on it and I still have it after these years lol

 

[mijderf]

You stated that you have to play with a very different embouchure. If this is the case below G2 as well, is there a possibility that may have a leak, and you are biting to get through it?

 

[JayeLID]

I would tune so that the overtones that give me those pitches (2nd g and above) are in, and see if the regular fingering are sharp to the overtones. If so, then I would try bringing down the key height in the left hand.

Not bad advice there !

Another fix may be to fill in the pip on the neck so that it is a bit smaller and not venting as much.

Also a possible solution.

 

[RREXX]

You stated that you have to play with a very different embouchure. If this is the case below G2 as well, is there a possibility that may have a leak, and you are biting to get through it?

It's more like I have to open my throat and loosen up a whole lot more to the point of it feeling unnatural. Never had this issue on other saxes. I also don't FEEL like there's a leak, it seems like it deals down to low Bb, but the palm key pads are kind of worn, I can post pictures when I get home.

 

[saxoclese]

Playing too high on the mouthpiece input pitch---above A=880 can exacerbate the sharpness of the upper register. On alto I like to tune to F#1 then check F#2 both with and without the octave key. Next I finger low B and overblow to the 2nd overtone F#. When all three match I have found the correct mouthpiece placement on the cork and the correct amount of embouchure pressure on the reed. I suggest you try this and the if you can manage it, also overblow low B to B3 and compare that pitch to the regularly fingered B3 with the octave key. That will tell you if the harmonics are in tune with each other. Another thing to try is to play G2, A2, and B2 as overtones without using the octave key. After the note sounds, add the octave key to see how much sharper the note becomes. On most saxes the A will be affected the most. I have experimented with reducing the opening of the neck octave vent by inserting a thin wall teflon tube. If you have any shrink tubing you can find a drill bit slightly smaller than the pip opening, shrink the tubing to that size and insert that into the vent to reduce the diameter. Be aware that reducing the size of the neck octave vent opening may produce a "hiss" or encourage an octave "multiphonic" when notes are played at a loud dynamic level---sometimes called a "grunt".

 

[RREXX]

Playing too high on the mouthpiece input pitch---above A=880 can exacerbate the sharpness of the upper register. On alto I like to tune to F#1 then check F#2 both with and without the octave key. Next I finger low B and overblow to the 2nd overtone F#. When all three match I have found the correct mouthpiece placement on the cork and the correct amount of embouchure pressure on the reed. I suggest you try this and the if you can manage it, also overblow low B to B3 and compare that pitch to the regularly fingered B3 with the octave key. That will tell you if the harmonics are in tune with each other. Another thing to try is to play G2, A2, and B2 as overtones without using the octave key. After the note sounds, add the octave key to see how much sharper the note becomes. On most saxes the A will be affected the most. I have experimented with reducing the opening of the neck octave vent by inserting a thin wall teflon tube. If you have any shrink tubing you can find a drill bit slightly smaller than the pip opening, shrink the tubing to that diameter and insert that as well to reduce the diameter. Be aware that reducing the size of the neck octave vent opening may produce a "hiss" or encourage an octave "multiphonic" when notes are played at a loud dynamic level.

I'll definitely give this a try and report my findings as soon as I can

 

[Grumps]

Some horns are dogs. King alto Voll-True saxophones are known for sketchy intonation; which carried over to the first line of Zephyrs. Your best bet if you keep the horn would be to find a better mouthpiece match. An old Woodwind Co. Steel Ebonite (A7) worked best with my first gen Zephyr alto ('36).

 

[Reet McVouty]

I still have one of these horns. It's been in the closet for years. And yes, it was always sharp up top. I took it to my tech years ago and inquired about an overhaul, he said it would cost more than the value of the horn to overhaul and in his opinion they were mechanically inferior to other horns of that era. He suggested I make a lamp out of it. I know a lot of the techs that post on here cringe at the lamp suggestion, but I tend to see it as more like an homage to a bygone era of saxophones. Anyway, trying to keep an 86 year old horn on life support will only cost you more time, money and aggravation than necessary. It's time to move on.