[RREXX]

Not long ago I made a thread talking about my decision to buy either a Selmer Mark VII or a Cannonball vintage reborn.
As you can see I got neither, as my opinion was swayed by literally one youtube video (Link below) and I fell in love instantly.

I took to Reverb and found a nice looking 301,xxx Naked Lady 10m, that I bought sight unseen....

I have only had it for about 2 or 3 days now, and I am blown away by this saxophone. I am really only used to playing on student horns, and I have tried out some cannonballs
that I really liked, but I could not be more happy with my purchase.

I am using an Otto Link STM NY 7* that I picked up at Sam Ash, and Vandoren Java Red 2.5 reeds

One thing that surprised me is my ability to get a brighter sound out of this setup, even managing to play some rock licks on it! (Mind blown)

I do need to take it to a tech to get it checked out and make sure it's setup to the best it can be, so if you guys know anyone in central Florida that does a great job please let me know.

I'll post pictures later.

 

[RREXX]

 

[Tryptykon]

Not long ago I made a thread talking about my decision to buy either a Selmer Mark VII or a Cannonball vintage reborn.
As you can see I got neither, as my opinion was swayed by literally one youtube video (Link below) and I fell in love instantly.

I took to Reverb and found a nice looking 301,xxx Naked Lady 10m, that I bought sight unseen....

I have only had it for about 2 or 3 days now, and I am blown away by this saxophone. I am really only used to playing on student horns, and I have tried out some cannonballs
that I really liked, but I could not be more happy with my purchase.

I am using an Otto Link STM NY 7* that I picked up at Sam Ash, and Vandoren Java Red 2.5 reeds

One thing that surprised me is my ability to get a brighter sound out of this setup, even managing to play some rock licks on it! (Mind blown)

I do need to take it to a tech to get it checked out and make sure it's setup to the best it can be, so if you guys know anyone in central Florida that does a great job please let me know.

I'll post pictures later.

https://southfloridahorns.com/testimonials/

 

[turf3]

Ever heard of Big Jay McNeely? Conn 10M with a metal Link.

 

[because]

I have two of these ('53 & '55) They are my primary horns & love how they can go from "Low & Smoky" to "High & Screamin'. Great range of emotion & tone.

It really didn't take too long to get used to the key & fingering set ups.... I did however have the hook ring moved down a few inches to eliminate the "snake bite" tendencies.... also moved the right thumb rest closer to the keys, probably because I started as an alto player & felt I needed a little less of a spread.

Great choice on a great horn!

 

[Grumps]

How's a nice, soft low D?

 

[RREXX]

Ever heard of Big Jay McNeely? Conn 10M with a metal Link.

I have, but those older links were a little brighter than the STM NY weren't they?

 

[RREXX]

How's a nice, soft low D?

Soft, fluffy, orgasmic.

 

[Reet McVouty]

I am using an Otto Link STM NY 7* that I picked up at Sam Ash, and Vandoren Java Red 2.5 reeds

One thing that surprised me is my ability to get a brighter sound out of this setup, even managing to play some rock licks on it! (Mind blown)

That is surprising to me as well. The NY Link has a larger chamber and not much of a baffle, which typically produces a darker sound. I have a 6 and it is dark. Good luck with the new horn. I sold a 10M years ago and it's the only horn I regret selling.

 

[Grumps]

Soft, fluffy, orgasmic.

Well, if that orgasmic sensation doesn't include a burble, consider yourself fortunate.

 

[RREXX]

Well, if that orgasmic sensation doesn't include a burble, consider yourself fortunate.

How common are said burbles

 

[Mike T]

RREXX:

I have two 10Ms, one from 1937 and the other from 1949. The 1949 is a fine horn in its own right, but the 1937 is the best tenor I've ever played — better than my Selmer Mk VI. However, judging by the opinions of those who know more than I do about 10Ms, the very, very best year of manufacture was not 1937 but 1941 — which happens to be the year of your recent acquisition. Congratulations, RREXX - you've got yourself one of the best Conn 10Ms ever made. I am green with envy.

 

[Kenneth]

RREXX:

I have two 10Ms, one from 1937 and the other from 1949. The 1949 is a fine horn in its own right, but the 1937 is the best tenor I've ever played - better than my Selmer Mk VI. However, judging by the opinions of those who know more than I do about 10Ms, the very, very best year of manufacture was not 1937 but 1941 - which happens to be the year of your recent acquisition. Congratulations, RREXX - you've got yourself one of the best Conn 10Ms ever made. I am green with envy.

That makes two of us, Mike.

My 10M is from 1948, an early non-RTH, and I love it, but I've always wanted to try an earlier one, and specifically, one from 1941.

Congratulations on a fine, fine purchase.

BTW, FWIW, mine doesn't have the infamous low D burble, either.

Keep safe,
Kenneth

 

[turf3]

How common are said burbles

2 of 3 I've owned have had the problem. The third one - I own it now - does not, but I also think it's got a Pan American neck which MIGHT be the difference.

 

[sxplr06]

I've had a 1941 10m, serial 298xxx, for over 20 years....wonderful horn, never had a problem with the low end except when it went out of adjustment...as any horn would that is played as much as this one.

 

[Grumps]

How common are said burbles

Common enough that you'll find it discussed many, many times on the site. For some players on some 10M horns, if the mouthpiece doesn't push in far enough, the low end can be more unstable; like around low D to C. But if you have a mouthpiece that tunes well and you can play a nice soft low D, then you're fine. If not... well, it can be easy to fall out of love with these horns should that apply. My '40 10M had it until I found a decent mouthpiece match and got used to playing the horn. After shelving it for a while in favor of another tenor, I found I had to get used to it all over again... and didn't bother. So off it went and now I've got a King.

 

[Dr G]

Common enough that you'll find it discussed many, many times on the site. For some players on some 10M horns, if the mouthpiece doesn't push in far enough, the low end can be more unstable; like around low D to C. But if you have a mouthpiece that tunes well and you can play a nice soft low D, then you're fine. If not... well, it can be easy to fall out of love with these horns should that apply. My '40 10M had it until I found a decent mouthpiece match and got used to playing the horn. After shelving it for a while in favor of another tenor, I found I had to get used to it all over again... and didn't bother. So off it went and now I've got a King.

Is it, then, fair to summarize that it is a more a matter of having the correct combination of player, mouthpiece, and horn? The experience you cite favors the argument that it is not the horn that has the burble, rather the combination.

Regardless, it seems the King is the better match for you, and that's a beautiful thing.