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I, too, have a TW01. As with yours, the engraving is not the best I've ever seen. Also, I had to have the neck tenon worked on as the crook was very loose. Good instrument though, but build quality and finish does not seem anywhere near as good as that of my A880 which is about thirty five years old .
I have previously posted about both the engraving and the loose tenon. The tenon was fixed in a few minutes by the dealer where I bought the sax, and the engraving, while unfortunate, is irrelevant. If I want to look at nice engraving, I'll pull out my Chateau alto or sop. The engraving is the only issue I have with the finish of the Yany, and the build quality is superior to any sax I have owned, so I'm not sure what you are referring to in that regard. Is it just the tenon fit?

Addressing the original question, I would keep the original Yany case. The fit of that case to the sax could not be better. It is literally impossible to wiggle the instrument around when it is "snapped" into place. Best-fitting case I have seen.
 

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fit of that case to the sax could not be better. It is literally impossible to wiggle the instrument around when it is "snapped" into place. Best-fitting case I have seen.
That is worth emphasizing. Dealer saxforte pointed out to me that Yany cases have interior hard material form-fitted exactly to that model of saxophone with only thin padding, versus the much thicker soft padding that lines BAM OEM Selmer cases, for example. The former is more desirable to limit motion inside the case. In fact he strongly recommended NOT putting a non-Yany sax into a Yany case (while Yany in a BAM would be fine) because there would likely be damaging interference with various protrusions from the non-Yany model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Update: Sax.co supposedly checks all their horns but I ended up making numerous adjustments that I feel were overlooked. As for Yanagisawa, for a company that has only 89 employees, I think mine was adjusted by an apprentice.
In the end I needed to adjust felts for low B and Bb, the felts were barely cut on Bb and B was cut at the wrong angle so the back of the pad and barely touched the felt.
The key the heights were notably off with Bb lower by about 3mm. Now they are synced and adjusted so that they close at same time as well. The low C felt was not right, and made for a bumpy ride from D#, again I Removed the key guard and cut the felt at the correct angle and brought the key height up, now the transition is smooth and feels right under the right pinky.
Lower F, E and D weren’t synced, numerous keys were not closing flat and needed adjusting. Am I expecting too much?
Last item I need to figure out is to setup
Correct adjustment for high Front F. It opens about half way, compared to operating it directly. I have noticed difficulty in playing High F with front key. It appears I need to add material to start Front F sooner and get it opening more. Any comments on setting up this key would be welcome.
As of now it plays much better than when it came out of the box, find the horn is very flexible and speaks easily and low and high volumes.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I also decided to end the Which Case quandary and am keeping the Hiscox to travel on Airlines, or to display with flash of color. The original case fits the TWO1 sax so well and has much more room to keep necessities and extras that this will be it’s main home.

Down the road if I decide to get another vintage Tenor the Hiscox fits most. Just not sure if a Buescher 400 fits it.
Thanks for all the input
Guzziman
 
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