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· Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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Bb and B 1 .290" measured from the edge of the cup to the seat @ largest opening
C1 .260
C#1 .235
Eb1 .250
D1 .250
E1 F1 .235
aux right hand stack .205
G# as above
G1 .215
A1 .200
Bb bis and B2 .185
side Bb .200
side C .185

Palm .125 may need to go further to .140 if a small chamber piece is used, or the other way if a true large chamber for soprano is used
 

· Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,497 Posts
It's more or less the same, the biggest difference is on lower notes. I suspect that this must be measured slightly different. On the largest keys, if you measure on the seat you get one figure, if you measure at the edge of the padcup is another whole game.
 

· Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,497 Posts
I'm asuming that small B is actally the additional key for the LH stack, you know, the key that it's timed to both B and Bb/A keys. Yeah it should be about .125 this key has the octave lever linked and when you press the octave lever it should be anywhere from closed to about .070" depending on your need to compensate for sharp palm and C#3
 

· Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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is the little key above B2 closing all the way when B2 is held down? You might adjust the G1 key closer (reduce vent height) this will bring down the A key and the bis Bb key cups. Or,you could check if when you press down the G lever, A and bis Bb keys are all the way closed. If when you play a G and you lift your middle finger the tone breaks, you need to adjust them fully close by adding regulation bumper thickness under the G key pearl holder. Do this and report back. Also, wich piece are you using?
 

· Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
Joined
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4,497 Posts
it's one of those peashooter soprano pieces? I mean, when you look at the internals from the cork end, facing a good light source, do you see a big restriction at about the throat area? (a little below where the window ends) ?
 
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