TT soprano key height
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Bb and B 1 .290" measured from the edge of the cup to the seat @ largest opening
C1 .260
C#1 .235
Eb1 .250
D1 .250
E1 F1 .235
aux right hand stack .205
G# as above
G1 .215
A1 .200
Bb bis and B2 .185
side Bb .200
side C .185
Palm .125 may need to go further to .140 if a small chamber piece is used, or the other way if a true large chamber for soprano is used
C1 .260
C#1 .235
Eb1 .250
D1 .250
E1 F1 .235
aux right hand stack .205
G# as above
G1 .215
A1 .200
Bb bis and B2 .185
side Bb .200
side C .185
Palm .125 may need to go further to .140 if a small chamber piece is used, or the other way if a true large chamber for soprano is used
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It's more or less the same, the biggest difference is on lower notes. I suspect that this must be measured slightly different. On the largest keys, if you measure on the seat you get one figure, if you measure at the edge of the padcup is another whole game.
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Thank you for reply! Say, what height at a key small B? .125?
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I'm asuming that small B is actally the additional key for the LH stack, you know, the key that it's timed to both B and Bb/A keys. Yeah it should be about .125 this key has the octave lever linked and when you press the octave lever it should be anywhere from closed to about .070" depending on your need to compensate for sharp palm and C#3
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Jicaino, thanx a lot for your input. So I readjusted RH stack and low notes according to your suggestions and it seems to be working. One thing thougth: Bb 2/3 is slightly sharp (when it's taken with one finger) Have you experienced anything like that and what would be a solution (not counting a leaping of course)
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is the little key above B2 closing all the way when B2 is held down? You might adjust the G1 key closer (reduce vent height) this will bring down the A key and the bis Bb key cups. Or,you could check if when you press down the G lever, A and bis Bb keys are all the way closed. If when you play a G and you lift your middle finger the tone breaks, you need to adjust them fully close by adding regulation bumper thickness under the G key pearl holder. Do this and report back. Also, wich piece are you using?
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it's one of those peashooter soprano pieces? I mean, when you look at the internals from the cork end, facing a good light source, do you see a big restriction at about the throat area? (a little below where the window ends) ?
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I'm using a Morgan Vintage on mine, but it's pretty unhappy (sharp on both ends) until the horn is very warm and then it's ok. I've had some notion of having an old Buescher sop piece resurfaced to about a 6* to cope, but haven't done it yet.
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what do the numbers correspond to?
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Inch
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It is still better to refer mouthpiece tips in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of mm. A 6* of one brand may be .095" and vary but .010" for another brand. A Yanagisawa tenor 6 is about .085" whereas a Lakey may be .105".
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Very cool! That's correct!!! Thank you!
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For what it's worth, I got a Buescher piece looked over by Joe from sopranoplanet and my '20s curvy TT is clean up and down 
Thank you for the key height information which should be great for my gold laquer 1928 TT soprano. I bought it in the middle 60s at the "Rescue Army Store" in Lawndale, CA for $10 and always have loved the sound. When I overhaul it soon, I'll use your numbers to check the pad heights.
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With this opening appears a backlash on the lever Bb (B + F)
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