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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sooooooooo...

I have a rousseau for classical and an Otto Link New Vintage for jazz. The problem i have is that my Otto Link's shank is very, VERY small. When I use it, I have to let the cork expand after i use it - sometimes for a day or two.

Can I get the shank expanded??

- J
 

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I have a metal New Vintage 10* and it's also very small. Real old Vintage Links also have a smaller bore. It's possible to expand the shank a little, but that can have an influence on the sound.

What I did to solve that issue (having a lot of mouthpieces with different shank bore sizes) is buying a second neck. One neck has thicker cork and is for the wide bore MPC's, the other neck has thinner cork and is for the small bore MPC's :).

Peter.
 

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I just bored out my Otto Link slightly with a cordless drill. I got an old plastic pen and wrapped foam-backed double sided tape around one end and wrapped a layer of fine grade sandpaper to the double sided tape and then used the drill and this attachment to bore out the shank of the mouthpiece to match with my other mouthpieces.
There's an old thread somewhere on here describing how to do this and linking to my PhotoBucket images...
These are the photos: http://s721.photobucket.com/albums/ww217/KennyDsax/Mouthpiece Shank/?albumview=slideshow
The 'dust' on the sandpaper is miniscule bits of Otto Link shaft...

KennyD
 

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Perhaps this is indicative of Otto Links. I have two Otto Links, both late models - a 6* STM and a 7 NY STM. The NY fits just a bit tighter than the plain STM. Doesn't look like (to me anywhos) that the shank of the NY would allow enough metal to be removed to allow it to fit more like the STM, in my case. But, as in KennyD's example, doesn't look like it's impossible.

Just had the neck re-corked for the STM and then I got the NY on the cheap for A/Bing. I've not had the time to adjust to the NY so the STM is still the favorite piece but I do worry about the cork decompressing enough after use of the NY to accommodate the STM properly. So far, at least for the couple of months I've had the NY, it's not been an issue.

There have been some suggestions on how to fill in the shank of pieces that are too large. Have to do a search for the particulars. Then, as suggested above, there is the two neck option, or, you can leave the neck cork as is for the Otto Link and add a bit of teflon tape to build up the cork for the Rousseau on an as needed basis. Probably not take more than one or two wraps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey all,

i think im going to pursue the option of the other neck. Looking at Phil Barone's - my T4 is enough for one. Gonna do some shopping I suppose.

- J
 

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I found that my Link Tone Edges were about the same shank diameter size as my Brilhart Personalines. Every other mouthpiece I had was a little smaller and would have required lots of cork grease and some compacting the cork. I just got rid of all my other mouthpieces as I like the Personalines better anyway. My Personaline S7 is with Brian Powell getting everything level and straight. When I get it back, I plan to send him my S5 for the same treatment. A second neck is not an option on my setup. :) They are way too hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found that my Link Tone Edges were about the same shank diameter size as my Brilhart Personalines. Every other mouthpiece I had was a little smaller and would have required lots of cork grease and some compacting the cork. I just got rid of all my other mouthpieces as I like the Personalines better anyway. My Personaline S7 is with Brian Powell getting everything level and straight. When I get it back, I plan to send him my S5 for the same treatment. A second neck is not an option on my setup. :) They are way too hard to find.
I see that - Silversonic!! You could go aftermarket (which is what im going to be doing) I guess, but if it works go for it!! My Otto Link is a Tone Master - I should have checked. I'm not sure as to whether or not you can flair/roll/expand the shank...guys, thoughts?? There's not a lot of wiggle room :(

- John
 

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Looked at my STM and NY again and I was mistaken. The shank wall is thicker than I could remember and they could be bored out just a bit as stated in an earlier post!
 

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Get it reamed. If you have access to a machinist in your area, he should have expandable reamers and fized reamers and whatnot. Good mechanics are always willing to help. Plus we hate the thought of people using drills and sandpaper glued on old pens for tasks that should be done with precise tools :bluewink:

I have always played (mostly) with vintage links. At one point I was using 2 different Tone Master NY and they both had narrow shank bore, but one was worse than the other. I reamed them to the exact same size so going back and forth was no issue.
 

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I'm assuming we are talking thousandths of an inch, here - not tenths!
If there is a massive difference between the shank internal diameter of one mouthpiece to another, I'd be wondering about the engineering quality of one of them...

KennyD
 

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Plus we hate the thought of people using drills and sandpaper glued on old pens for tasks that should be done with precise tools :bluewink:
Ah, but there was nothing imprecise about me boring out my Otto Link STM shank with my 'home boring kit'... I got the shank's internal diameter to with a thou' of what I was aiming for.

I started with 80 grit and stepped up through a few grit grades to finish with 800 grit and ended with an absolutely perfect finish.

If you saw my Otto Link STM, you'd know for sure it was not the original finish because the inside of the shank is far more perfect and smooth than ever headed out of any Otto Link 'factory'!

Now, if we're talking a stainless steel Berg Larsen mouthpiece that needs an increased internal diameter of the shank, I absolutely and totally and whole-heartedly agree with you.
Stainless steel is incredibly hard and to use a home made hand held borer to work on it would be Daft (note the capital D)!
And stainless steel generates a whole lot of heat for very little metal loss.
A whole lotta lotta heat.
And then some!
Even with welding gloves on and working slowly.
And don't even think about using just oven mitts!

KennyD
 

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I was just being machinistically funny about the old pen. That'd do... I'm sure a person whos in for doing a good job can achieve better than babbit results with a fingernail file and 2 rubberbands :bluewink:

SS... man, that Larsen guy must have been soooo into BDSM... machining SS is a major pain in the butt.
 

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SS... man, that Larsen guy must have been soooo into BDSM... machining SS is a major pain in the butt.
Yeah, try it with hand tools! Yikes!

In all seriousness, don't even bother playing with stainless steel with hand tools - it really is just Daft to even contemplate it!
I can't fathom what possessed them to use stainless steel.
It's no wonder they still have 'denim jeans' machining marks on the tables. There's be few volunteers to smooth off stainless steel tables by hand!

KennyD
 

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I've done a couple of bergs by hand. Use VALTITAN files (the ones with the yellow tangs) and you're mostly OK.
 
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