The strongest 2mm screwdriver known to man

Screws have heads sized according to the expected amount of torque. If you're twisting off the tips of normal screwdrivers trying to remove rods and screws, you need to do something else. Next step will simply to be split or round off the slots in the rods and screws, or twist off the heads of the pivot screw leaving the headless screw stuck in the post, anyway.

You may need to unsolder a post on occasion. There are other tricks of the trade as well.

Got it. But I don't think I've yet tried a well hardened screwdriver. The ones I had were of the low cost variety made to look good but unsuitable for any challenges. They all have twisted tips now, destined to become awls or poker/scraper things. I'd also like to know, for example, if kroil is worth the high cost. Does it live up to its claims?

Kroil is a great product. I have a can.

Zeugitai said:

Sorry! I found the screwdriver thread from three years ago. I'd still appreciate any current recommendations however.

No exaggeration. I've wrecked my several 'soft' screwdrivers trying to free stuck hinge rods and screws in very old, neglected saxophones. I have no choice but to invest in the strongest 2mm screwdriver available. Yes, I am using a penetrating solvent (with heat), but perhaps even that is not the best available. I'm asking for recommendations for both.

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Try searching different keywords. I’ve asked the moderators to move the thread from “what to buy, reeds & Misc” to maintenance section. This is the same section you’ll find screwdrivers and how to remove stuck parts. Screwdrivers

Go-to brands for screwdrivers are Wiha, Wera, PB Swiss - but honestly, I'm still using the same set of Craftsman jewelers' screwdrivers I bought 40 years ago and the tips are just fine.

I have found that the hardest, strongest screwdriver tips are the very short ones that usually come in sets for use
with screwdriver handles or electric drills or screwdrivers.

PigSquealer said:

Try searching different keywords. I’ve asked the moderators to move the thread from “what to buy, reeds & Misc” to maintenance section. This is the same section you’ll find screwdrivers and how to remove stuck parts. Screwdrivers

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Thank you.

I've tried a few run of the mill screwdrivers, always trying to get more than I pay for. In the end, with the money I've wasted on these relatively soft shafts, I'd now like to get the last 2mm screwdriver I'll ever need. I'm not concerned with matters of regular maintenance. I have tools good enough for that. I'm trying to free screws and rods in neglected instruments from the 1920s. You all know what that means and I'm just learning the hard way.

I've narrowed it down to Ferree's f-79 or Smith's gold. Both are suffocatingly expensive but should pay for themselves if I can get a couple horns into playable condition with them. Any advice to tip the scale toward one or the other?

1, Read the screwdriver thread.
2, learn how to reshape and harden the ones you have.

Try to use methods other than brute force. More successful, easier on tools.

Pentrating oil on the hinge rod, at all joints. Then heat. Use the heat to “draw” the oil along the rod. This is a good place for a blazer-type torch, a heat gun will be less effective (though safer). Well ventilated area, etc.

Rinse and repeat, maybe for several days. I want to stress the warning about breaking the screw head on the rod.

Also if the key moves freely look to see if rod is turning in post. If so the rod is stuck in tube. If not stuck in tube it’s stuck in post(s). This could be from shoving the wrong angled tip into the slot thus wedging it into the post. Or the threaded side is stuck from rust.

A 2 mm screwdriver would only fit into a slotted rod head that has the same diameter as the rod itself (2 mm).

As suggested above, if both posts are unsoldered, you might have more success freeing the rod. After unsoldering, take off the post nearest to the slotted head and continue the disassembly until all keys are removed from the rod. This will expose the rod body onto which you will be able to grip.

Corrosion Cracker, from Ferree's Tools, is incredible.
I was given a clarinet which had been sitting in a damp room for more than sixty years. Almost all of the hinge rods and pivots were frozen. It took about two weeks of daily application of Corrosion Cracker, but everything eventually freed up nicely. Some heat was applied daily, as well.


(I hope that I don't get into trouble with the Moderators, for plugging this product! 😇 )

Leblanc Boy - we here like such suggestions.

to the OP - you best amass an array of suitably sized screwdrivers - what you'll need for regular maintenance will differ for those required to disassemble well neglected instruments. I've refently added an array of WERA precision drivers to my toolbox.

I've been using some hardware screwdrivers I modified with a bench grinder to fit the set screws and rods on my instruments. I was going to upgrade them too one of those listed here until I saw the current price of them. But I'm just doing this as a hobby.

I have some Wihas that are pretty nice but I have abused the old Craftsman's for years. The Wihas seem to have strong tips.

GaSax said:

I've been using some hardware screwdrivers I modified with a bench grinder to fit the set screws and rods on my instruments. I was going to upgrade them too one of those listed here until I saw the current price of them. But I'm just doing this as a hobby.

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Nothing wrong about a tool that works correctly. I prefer to hand file tips. More control and no heat from grinder.

datsaxman said:

Try to use methods other than brute force. More successful, easier on tools.

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Of course. I'm trying to improve these horns, not wreck them worse than their previous owners did. I take the approach of walking away from an impasse, what they used to call going back to the drawing board. The conclusion is inescapable though: I still need a/some good screwdrivers. My previous ones were cheap junk.