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TECH QUESTION: Esthetically Pleasing Material to Fill in Crack on Plastic Oboe? Please help.

5013 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  shmuelyosef
I got a great deal on a doubling oboe for my wife for Christmas. I had bought her a pretty good vintage oboe a few years ago. But she became discouraged with it and asked me to sell it and "get it out of the house". So I obeyed as any well-seasoned husband would.

But this year, she's now asking for another oboe. So I went cheap and scored a nice modern Selmer Signet oboe off eBay at a super low price. The background on this horn is that it was bought by a tech for parts because the middle tenon socket was broken. But the tech though it was so new looking and nice that he decided to repair it.

I got it last night. And with a synthetic reed, I can play the oboe up and down with no trouble what so ever. It seems well regulated. The middle tenon joint is glued solidly together so I just now ordered a soprano sax gig bag to put it in and I'm returning the regular oboe case I ordered from Amazon. That's no problem. And I believe this inexpensive but great playing oboe will be just the thing for my wife to noodle around on and maybe even use in performance now and then.

My problem is that the repaired crack that is all the way around the center tenon socket is very visible and has left kind of a gash due to flaking. I'd like to try and fill this blemish in with some kind of epoxy, putty or other material that I can sand down and polish to match the shiny black plastic body. The crack is already professionally fix and seals. Filling in the blemish would only be for looks.

It you know what I could use to do this, please let me know. And thanks for you time. :bluewink:
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On my own Signet oboe I lengthened the bell key barrel so I could fit a low Bb bell vent which meant relocating the lower pillar further down the bell (just above the logo) which in turn meant having to fill in the original pillar hole

As this is now located under the key barrel, I filled it in with hard wax, then used a reed to scrape and level it, then using exactly the same method in getting a mirror finish on shoes I polished it by hand buffing with a damp cloth which brought the hard wax up to a bright shine to match the glossy finish of the surrounding plastic.

This is fine if you're not in constant contact with it which will wear out the filler over time, especially if it's only filling shallow imperfections. But if it's in a reasonably inaccessable area, then it's a good and hassle-free cosmetic fix. Similarly with filling in screw holes left in plastic instruments when the thumbrest has been moved, plus it's an easy thing to reinstate the original filled-in holes if the thumbrest has to be put back in its original position later on - the wax can easily be removed by hand with a twist drill.
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