[xax]

I have "discovered" a possible solution to the sticky pad syndrome...dryer sheets! Use it like you would use the fabled dollar bill...just place the sheet between the pad and tone hole, close the pad over sheet, apply appropriate down pressure on the key cup and draw the sheet out. So far, it seems to work really well; I leave the sheet in the case to help mitigate funky vintage case odor. I can't report on long term results, so proceed at your own risk.

 

[fluteypiccolosax]

i might try this on the pesky G# and c#

 

[hornfixer]

Love it, got to give it a try.........thanks.

 

[ZephyrSax]

I actually find wax paper very effective, though I have to do it once every time before I play my King to the G# and lower octave pad. Still, it lasts the whole practice session, so maybe give that a try too.

 

[Frequency]

any results?

 

[SuperAction80]

any results?

Less static...smells fresh.

 

[A_SaX]

I know this post is old, but maybe some other people will find my reply useful. Old English Oil works FANTASTICALLY on pads. And yes, I'm talking about that orange-yellow stuff you buy in the cleaner aisle (it's the stuff you use on wood furniture... no joke). What you do, is take a Q-Tip or pipe-cleaner and dip it in the oil (I usually just pour some into the cap to make it easier). Then, swab the tone hole (not the actual pad... although for some particularly sticky pads... like, G# and Eb for example, go for it). You don't need much. Immediately you should see results. Of course, this does take a little time to do every single pad but it is so worth it for long term. Try it and see how it works. Whenever I find sticky pads disrupting my practice/playing, I slap that stuff on and it's like the instrument is new . Don't overload it though, because too much too often I think can ruin the pads, or actually make them stick more :shock:

 

[tenor71363]

How about Febreeze for sticky pads? I hear it's the cure for the common cold, too.

 

[Jeff C]

The dryer sheet works great. Thanks xax.

 

[bandmommy]

How about Febreeze for sticky pads? I hear it's the cure for the common cold, too.

Windex works much better than Fabreeze.

I'd be careful with the fabric softner sheets. They can leave a gummy residue if used too often or on 'slightly' damp pads.
They do leave your case smelling clothes line fresh though.

 

[Sigmund451]

Be very careful with the oils. They harden felt under the pad as it penetrates. Hard felt is pad death.

 

[SuperAction80]

I recently asked my tech what to do about sticky pads. He explained that he isn't a fan of powders because they build up residue on the pads that contribute to more stickiness. I have used a few powder products in the past, and do believe the same thing. In addition, he avoids using lighter fluid because it dries out the leather. I've tried this method a few times, but it seems to be only minimally effective. His suggestion was to use a microgrit sandpaper, and pass the grit side over the actual tonehole one or two times. This removes the built up gunk on the tone hole which contributes to sticky pads. His suggestion was to use P240/240 sandpaper or finer, and only use moderate pressure. I asked if this method would in any way damage the tonehole itself, but was assured that I would really have to try to damage the toneholes with this grit. I've been using this method for about 3 months now, and it has by far been the most effective approach.
(Edit) Of course, you must be careful to avoid scratching the lacquered areas of the horn.

 

[LampLight]

I'm convinced there's no one best solution for all pad/player combinations. My last teacher liked the Old English Oil that A_SaX mentioned, but it wasn't a magic bullet for him. I find for that for me, soaking a piece of felt in plain water and rubbing it gently against the pad works as well as anything. You pay your money and take your choice I guess.

 

[BlueTrane2028]

I use lighter fluid, but only as a last resort.

Prevention is the best remedy, keep the horn swabbed, don't blow food/coke through your sax, etc.

 

[Gordon (NZ)]

There are many causes of pads sticking to tone holes.
There are many ways to attempt to deal with it.

To be successful, one really needs to match the cure to the cause.
This means either trial and error, possibly damaging the pads in the process, or an educated attempt at good diagnosis, which is pretty well impossible in a forum situation where the eyes and touch which are experienced enough to diagnose are unable to meet the pads concerned.

There are reportedly "successful" solutions which without a doubt, greatly reduce the effective life of pads.
There are reportedly successful solutions which are quite wrong for types of pad different from what they the solutions were successfully used for.
There are reportedly successful solutions in this forum that are (mis-)communicated in such a way that they could easily result in pads so sticky that they need replacement.

What cans of worms threads such as these are!

 

[dave2sax]

I have been going crazy lately with a sticky bis key, really driving me nuts. It was the same before the pad was replaced, and now it's the same after it was replaced. I don't know why, but that one key just always sticks on my horn. Doing just the typical things to fix sticky keys last for about an hour of playing, then it would stick again.

Recently tried something different and it has seemed to take care of the problem more permanently. First, very lightly rubbed the tone hole with a piece of very fine steel wool. Next, cleaned the tone hole and pad with lighter fluid. Finally, used a Q-tip to apply a teflon-based lubricant called "Tri-Flow" (common hardware store item) to the pad and tone hole. So far, this procedure has worked better than anything else I've ever tried so far.

 

[Gordon (NZ)]

My guess is that that the most significant part of your procedure was removing the layer of sticky lacquer from the edge of the tone hole, with the steel wool.

 

[jbtsax]

My experience is that "powders" do not build up on the pad causing residue and more stickiness, they simply wear off over time and can be replaced. Also lighter fluid (naptha) does not dry out the leather on most modern pads since they are treated with a waterproofing at the factory. It is easy to tell. Just put a drop of water on the edge of a pad. If the water is instantly absorbed and the leather turns dark brown, don't use Naptha. If the water just rolls off, using Naptha is just fine. It will clean the surface of the pad and not be absorbed into the leather.

For very sticky pads I have been using a strip of 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper cut to the width of the key cup. On the paper side of the sandpaper I rub a small bit of Charlie A's Gig Dust. Then I pull the sand paper out from under the pad twice using light pressure with the sandpaper side down. This cleans the tonehole surface, and puts a light coating of gig dust on the pad surface all in the same operation.

This does not damage the tonehole in any way and can be repeated as needed. The gig dust does not build up over time. It wears away. Even if it did build up it would not cause the pad to stick because of its slick surface.

John

 

[Gordon (NZ)]

Pretty good advice, I'd say JBT. It would work pretty well in many cases.

I reckon talcum powder or Teflon powder is cheaper than gig dust though.

 

[jbtsax]

Pretty good advice, I'd say JBT. It would work pretty well in many cases.

I reckon talcum powder or Teflon powder is cheaper than gig dust though.

Yeah, but it is not as pretty.

John