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I have used this kind of touch-up plating before and it works. Gold doesn't stick well on bare brass - it would normally be nickel or silver-plated first, then the gold. When it comes to solder, if you used 95-5 (tin-silver) it should take plating. Other than that I couldn't say.
 

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Maybe just buying the plating solutions and making your own applicators connected to a DC power supply (one which you can regulate the voltage).

I did this years ago using a cotton bud with a wire running down the inside of it and it worked quite well.
 

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Has anyone used this or anything similar?
Chris I have touch up brush plating kits for brass silver and nickle similiar to those, there okay for there purpose but are very very and let me say this again very slow in there process. The problem is they are based around a enviromentally based liquid solution.

If you use the standard traditional cyanide based electroplating tanks the deposit rate is far quicker and far better even with a brush plating method. Ive electroplated with proper tanks and the finish between the two (cyanide and non cyanide) is not even comparable, really I wouild not expect them to be anything better than a blend unit, that is if you have damaged plating, buff it and blend the repaired surface, but you will always see the blended area unless you spend a long long time moving the wand over the surface. Have you considered the electroless plating

We have a second story being fitted into the workshop as I type, so next week, one of the rooms is going to become a dedictaed plating room with cyanide based tanks
 

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Chris I have one of thos pens from goldn. It works well enough for touching up areas on instruments where they are not going to be in contact with skin or rubbing on the edge of a case for example.
I ran out of the buds the company supplies and normal cotton buds fit the plating pen.

You can get a thicker finish if you want by just repeating the process. Its straightforward and easy to use.

I have considered a plating plant large enough to plate trumpet bell, like the unit I was trained to use at college the reason I didnt go for it is purely for environmental reasons i.e safe disposal of the fluids.
 

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John in my terminology, and Im hesitant to begin without first reading wikipedia for an exact definition and terminology reference to quote word for word in case my wording is insufficient incorrect or just plain wrong. Okay without being an expert in this field , my terminology is,

Electroless Plating - A chemical mix that you dunk the parts into which will provide a surface plating, no electricty (electroless) required

thats it, Im not game to say more. And yes I do have some in my workshop
 

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Chris I dont know if this helps or not, but here you go

Its sunday and Im at work, so not a good start. This is one of the jobs, someone has sat on there flute, the neck socket has been broken away from the flute as well(geimenhardt), also theyve tried to resolder it back on, not very good, so Ive buffed the damaged silver plating area and will solder it back together, then repair the bent body assemble it and then use the brush plating kit to blend it back in.. Its hard to see in the photo but the buffed area has no silver plating just bare brass

Hope it helps
 

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So flute is repaired, straightened soldered and brush plated

This is the area of concern with 10 minutes of wand work over the surface, you can see the brass area dis-appearing slowly, some light coverage in other areas
 

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This was using the brush plating systeme identical to the one your looking at chris

It is non cyanide based, so the plating takes longer and is thinner, the end result is acceptable and as per griffs stateemnt adequate provided you dont start rubbing that area.

If I wanted it as good as the original then it would have to be done with a cyanide based plating
 

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You will notice on closer inspection that there is a small shadow underneath the plating, ive bordered the area with little red dots to show where, this is what I was talking about being the difference bewteen the types as well, a higher deposit rate would make this area dis-appear,
 

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DISCLAIMER

I place this disclaimer due to the need of late to debate the finer points of the topic at hand:faceinpalm:

I am not an electroplater and do not claim to be:tsk:, I am not an expert in this field and do not claim to be:tsk::tsk: I am not,,you get the point :tsk::tsk::tsk:

The steps above are not sufficient enough for someone who has never done it before to follow, and achieve the same result, I recommend should you decide to do this, read many online sources from reputable places :soapbox: wikipedia if you feel thats close enough,
Or let me google that for you http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+brush+electroplate

Chemicals are involved, electricity too :twisted:

I feel better now :bluewink:...:mrgreen:..::faceinpalm:
 

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Chris, I've used the brush silver plating from Caswell which looks similar. IME you get a different thickness depending on how long you rub it. It can take very long. I also found it pretty poor quality for a part you need to touch or rub (like a touchpiece). For other parts, it can look good but wear faster than good plating. I found that if you only put a thin layer you can easily polish it off with very light polishing.

For example I used it to silver plate my bass clarinet register tubes www.nitailevi.com/tests/bass_regtube/bass_regtube.htm
I almsot never touch them. Some years later, about 10% of plating is worn with brass showing. The neck which I touch a lot more is still perfect with no wear.

I don't know much about plating. My experience is only with this brush kit.
 

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Does anyone know if the Caswell silver plate solution has a shelf life? I know the gold does, but haven't been able to find anything about the silver. I bought a kit about 3 years ago and never used it, so I hope my solution is still good!
 
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