[reafbop]

Hi ,can someone tell me the dimensions of the flat spring on a Conn 10M I950 Eb Palm Key?


TENOR Saxophone


Also the dimensions of the screw which attaches the Flat spring to the Eb Palm key?

Is One able to purchase the above items on-line?


Thanks

 

[Grumps]

Re: Specs for a Conn Flat Sping

Is One able to purchase the above items on-line?

Don't have the specs for you, but these guys helped me when I needed flat springs for my Conn soprano:

www.musicmedic.com

Just let them know what you've got and they'll set you up with what you need.

 

[reafbop]

Re: Specs for a Conn Flat Sping

Thanks, have been on their website but nothing stood out in terms of 10m flat Springs for Tenor Sax..

Is there a manual/ brochure or something similar which describes the Bits and sizes of rods etc on a 10m?

 

[turf3]

Re: Specs for a Conn Flat Sping

Nope, you need to actually use the phone. Any experienced repair person will have a junk box that may include a spring of appropriate size; if not they could measure from a complete 10M. You can easily buy flat springs once you know the size. They've probably changed over the roughly 60 years Conn made tenor saxophones.

 

[reafbop]

Re: Specs for a Conn Flat Sping

. Any experienced repair person will have a junk box that may include a spring of appropriate size; .

Trying to get the job done myself . I live in the UK and am fed up with my horn never getting done 'right'. I think I can do better myself and not have have to deal with the ********.

 

[turf3]

Well, that's fine, but someone's going to have to tell you the size so you can buy it. Flat springs are readily available but they're sold by size. That wee little screw is going to be a bear to figure out its thread size as it's so small a thread gauge will be very difficult to use.

A repair technician can tell you these things quickly and would likely have the parts.

 

[Grumps]

Re: Specs for a Conn Flat Sping

Thanks, have been on their website but nothing stood out in terms of 10m flat Springs for Tenor Sax.

As I said... contact them and tell them what you have. They'll make suggestions accordingly.

 

[lostcircuits]

Really, all you need is the thickness of the original spring and the width. You can use snippers to cut the correct length and you adjust the tension by bending it until it is where you like it to be. You may even do that with the spring you have on there now, instead of trying to replace it. As to the screw, it is trial and error but I can't think of any reason why you want to replace it, unless the thread is worn out (on the key, in which case you need to go one size up. With those tiny screws and fine threads, there is no good way of cutting the thread but it's brass and the screw is steel, so it won't be too much of a problem. If you know of any old-fashioned watch maker or jeweler, they might also be able to help you out, and in the UK you might even stand a better chance than in the US.

 

[saxoclese]

I pulled the Eb key on my 10M and took the following measurements:

The flat spring measures .54mm thick and 30mm long. Windplus in the UK has one that is .40 thick and 30mm long that will work. part # FS 30-40

The flat spring screw is 0-80 which Dawkes carries. Look under woodwind screws.

 

[saxoclese]

I hope this isn't one of those threads where the OP asks a question and then is never heard from again.

 

[reafbop]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions... I paid and had one installed as I was a giggin on Friday/Sat night and it was all taking a bit too long.

Apparently the screw was the same as on a Yani sax , the rest they wouldn't tell me .. My suspicions are Yamaha horns use the same bits though I my be wrong.

I re padded the three other pads myself so I saved a bit of cash there. My horn is still leaking but works from bottom C to the top. Oh well.

 

[Grumps]

You can check for leaks yourself with a four dollar rope light from a hardware store in a dark room just to give you an idea how bad it might be. If you take it to a shop to check, make sure they have the equipment to test for a leak where the neck connects to the horn.

 

[clarnibass]

I re padded the three other pads myself so I saved a bit of cash there. My horn is still leaking but works from bottom C to the top. Oh well.

Not enough info to say anything for sure (and the only real way to be completely sure is to check it), but if there is a sudden change from low C to B, and low C# is also problematic, it could be something simple like the right hand stack keys not closing the G# (which is opened by the other left hand low levers).