[magical pig]

I switched from Rico 3 1/2 to 3's on my TMEB 7* and I find myself pulling the mpc quite a bit in order to be in tune. I'm kind of puzzled by it. Is this normal? Or is it an indicator that I'm biting too much?

The good thing is I get much more resonance out of that softer reed. Go figure...

 

[hakukani]

You have to change air speed to play consistently in tune if the reed is softer.

 

[magical pig]

You have to change air speed to play consistently in tune if the reed is softer.

How do you mean?

 

[hakukani]

All other variables things being equal, the air speed has to be slowed slightly with a softer reed, or the pitch will rise (note: this is strictly anecdotal, meaning my experience). Alternatively, the jaw could be dropped to lower the pitch.

 

[magical pig]

All other variables things being equal, the air speed has to be slowed slightly with a softer reed, or the pitch will rise (note: this is strictly anecdotal, meaning my experience). Alternatively, the jaw could be dropped to lower the pitch.

There's no way I can slow my airstream. I'm trying to make it go faster. LOL.

I suppose it's not too much a problem though. My mpc rests a little past 1/2 the cork instead of 3/4 in.

Thanks!!

 

[Phil1]

I switched from Rico 3 1/2 to 3's on my TMEB 7* and I find myself pulling the mpc quite a bit in order to be in tune. I'm kind of puzzled by it. Is this normal? Or is it an indicator that I'm biting too much?

The good thing is I get much more resonance out of that softer reed. Go figure...

A couple of things yes the 3's will get a more resonant sound and maybe 2 1/2 even more so.

Of course you don't want to bite when you go upstairs. Ideally the same position should play low Bb and altissimo but we get excited.

As for tuning check out this link. It's been on here before . It helped me.

I know guys (pros) that play 1 1/2 and sound like 5's . Mental approach.

http://www.steveduke.net/pdf/steve_duke_mouthpiece_placement.pdf

 

[Phil1]

All other variables things being equal, the air speed has to be slowed slightly with a softer reed, or the pitch will rise (note: this is strictly anecdotal, meaning my experience). Alternatively, the jaw could be dropped to lower the pitch.

I agree with a softer reed you don't have to play as hard. More like breathing into the horn almost . I would add push in and lower the jaw also.

http://www.steveduke.net/pdf/steve_duke_mouthpiece_placement.pdf

 

[jbtsax]

From an acoustic standpoint a harder reed is supposed to play sharper, especially in the upper register because the reed does not travel as far in its cycle of "beating" against the mouthpiece tip and creates a slightly smaller mouthpiece "effective" volume. That said the player proves an important variable as well and can have a major effect upon the pitch(es) produced.

From a physics/aeronautics stand point the bumblebee isn't supposed to be capable of flight since his wingspan is not sufficient to lift his body weight, but someone forgot to tell that to the bumblebee. Hence the words "supposed to" should be taken with a grain of salt (and a squirt of lime and a margarita). :mrgreen:

 

[JL]

It's my hypothesis (only an hypothesis; it won't rise to a theory without a lot more supporting evidence) that a softer reed allows more flexibility in tone and intonation. So it will be more difficult to slot in the tuning. It can go sharp (if you bite or squeeze with your embouchure) or flat (if you loosen up) more easily than a harder reed. As I say, it's just an hypothesis, but it sort of makes sense to me. So with a softer reed you have to be careful to maintain good solid air support and a steady embouchure.

 

[magical pig]

I agree with a softer reed you don't have to play as hard. More like breathing into the horn almost . I would add push in and lower the jaw also.

http://www.steveduke.net/pdf/steve_duke_mouthpiece_placement.pdf

Yeah I had read the article a while ago. I tried it again just now : no problem.

It's my hypothesis (only an hypothesis; it won't rise to a theory without a lot more supporting evidence) that a softer reed allows more flexibility in tone and intonation. So it will be more difficult to slot in the tuning. It can go sharp (if you bite or squeeze with your embouchure) or flat (if you loosen up) more easily than a harder reed. As I say, it's just an hypothesis, but it sort of makes sense to me. So with a softer reed you have to be careful to maintain good solid air support and a steady embouchure.

This makes a lot of sense, thanks.

 

[hakukani]

From an acoustic standpoint a harder reed is supposed to play sharper, especially in the upper register because the reed does not travel as far in its cycle of "beating" against the mouthpiece tip and creates a slightly smaller mouthpiece "effective" volume. That said the player proves an important variable as well and can have a major effect upon the pitch(es) produced.

From a physics/aeronautics stand point the bumblebee isn't supposed to be capable of flight since his wingspan is not sufficient to lift his body weight, but someone forgot to tell that to the bumblebee. Hence the words "supposed to" should be taken with a grain of salt (and a squirt of lime and a margarita). :mrgreen:

The bumblebee problem was solved a number of years ago when they showed that a bumblebee's wings not only 'flap' up and down, but also flap forward and backward, thus creating much more lift.

 

[jlima]

Recently I've gone up in tip opening (from 6* to 7*) and down in reed strength (from 3 to 2.5) and I'm enjoying the results quite a bit. Playing in tune in the palm key notes is still a challenge, but I'm getting there with long tones and consistent awareness of my embouchure (not biting, that is). Sometimes I choke high F and that is a sign that I'm not loosening up enough, but I do believe that over time I will be able to control this, because I am already making some progress. Good luck!

 

[DXCamp]

IME a softer reed such as a 1 1/2 has a shorter lifespan than say a 2 1/2 but when both are right out of box new they are equally acceptable. Reed choice for me depends on what's available at the moment.

 

[jbtsax]

The bumblebee problem was solved a number of years ago when they showed that a bumblebee's wings not only 'flap' up and down, but also flap forward and backward, thus creating much more lift.

Dang. Here I thought it was a miracle.:crybaby:

 

[magical pig]

Dang. Here I thought it was a miracle.:crybaby:

 

[jbtsax]

That is about the speed I can now play Flight of the Bumble Bee with my arthritis.

 

[JL]

Just went back to the OP to see what you are calling a 'soft' reed:

I switched from Rico 3 1/2 to 3's on my TMEB 7*...

A #3 reed on a 7* tip opening is not really a soft reed, imo. Somewhat depends on brand (and I don't use Ricos so am not sure how it compares to the Rigotti or V16s that I'm used to), but for most brands a #3 reed would be 'medium' strength, not soft at all until it wears out. My guess is you were using a very strong embouchure (possibly biting somewhat) with the #3.5 reeds, which are relatively hard reeds, so it's a matter of loosening up and keeping a steady airstream. Which is a good idea in any case. i bet the problem will disappear in a relatively short time.

 

[magical pig]

A #3 reed on a 7* tip opening is not really a soft reed, imo. Somewhat depends on brand (and I don't use Ricos so am not sure how it compares to the Rigotti or V16s that I'm used to), but for most brands a #3 reed would be 'medium' strength, not soft at all until it wears out. My guess is you were using a very strong embouchure (possibly biting somewhat) with the #3.5 reeds, which are relatively hard reeds, so it's a matter of loosening up and keeping a steady airstream. Which is a good idea in any case. i bet the problem will disappear in a relatively short time.

I know a Rico Royal 3's strength feels between a 3 java (which is softer) and 3 V16.

I think what you said is dead on.