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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it just to repair worn silver or can you actually plate brass with it ?

Anyone used this stuff before ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not brand specific. If you do a search on Ebay for silver plating solution, you'll see what I mean. Agreed, it would have helped if I'd put it in my opening question.
 

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"mosplace" started a thread about it and as i recall, she said it worked.
 

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If you mean the electroless plating solutions such as this

Then they will deposit a VERY thin layer of silver on most metals - to see the effect make up a solution of Copper Sulphate and dip a knife blade into it - this will deposit a similar layer of copper - now try scrubbing it....

Side-Note: silver salts are toxic -> http://www.camd.lsu.edu/msds/s/silver_nitrate.htm#Toxicity

Caswell do "Brush Plating" kits which use solution depletion and a DC current - this is much more effective but tedious and suited only to small areas - it does what it says on the tin.

If you are seriously considering plating an entire saxophone - that's a job for an expert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
DougR said:
If you are seriously considering plating an entire saxophone - that's a job for an expert.
Hi Doug,

I only want the bell / bow and crook done, and no, I wouldn't attempt it myself.

This stuff on Ebay is apparently a brush on stuff that you buff off and it deposits real silver over the surface (albeit in a thin coat).
As my horn is delac'd anyway, I'm thinking about giving it a go just to see if I'm going down the right road.

The plater has also advised that if I do use the stuff on Ebay, it won't interfere with the proper plating procedure. My only real concern is the plater buffing the horn but I'll talk more with them before commiting..
 

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I've used the stuff for the odd touching up after rebuilding a small part.

The deposit is very thin.

I would regard the method as quite unsuitable for the large area you are suggesting. OK for a few square mm.
 

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Bell, bow and crook sould like a reasonable home project - you will need a small vat, the salts and a suitable power supply- practice with something you don't really value - junk stores will often produce a suitable bugle for hardly any money.

If you want a bright finish then the brass must be polished to a high shine BEFORE plating - afterwards is too late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Gordon & Doug.

I won't be attempting a full plate myself as the horn means too much to me and I don't want to balls it up.

As I understand it, the liquid silver plate (along with any remaining missed LQ) would be removed by the dipping process. Also if I use the liquid as a trial and don't like the end result, I am advised (as Gordon correctly identified) it's a very thin coat and wouldn't take much polishing at all to remove it again.

I'll give it a trial and post some pics over the weekend.
 

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And report how long it takes, and how much of that fluid you need!
 

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Any opinions on what would work for a small area? I have a really nice Chu alto with light plating loss on the side bb and C along with the octave key lever and G# lever. I can get Anderson to replate for a small amount but I hate having to reomve the pad(s) and refit after plating. If this solution works I may try it on the spots.
 

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bruce bailey said:
Any opinions on what would work for a small area? I have a really nice Chu alto with light plating loss on the side bb and C along with the octave key lever and G# lever. I can get Anderson to replate for a small amount but I hate having to reomve the pad(s) and refit after plating. If this solution works I may try it on the spots.
Bruce, I've used this wich is a simular liquid. I think it works nice for retouching small spots that have some wear. But you will probably need several layers and it wears of again when it's on spots that are touched regularly so you need to repeat it every now and then.
Description says it will work on (Yellow) brass, but it is less effective on brass with higher zinc content (>33%). Maybe you need to check that on available products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bruce bailey said:
Any opinions on what would work for a small area? I have a really nice Chu alto with light plating loss on the side bb and C along with the octave key lever and G# lever. I can get Anderson to replate for a small amount but I hate having to reomve the pad(s) and refit after plating. If this solution works I may try it on the spots.

Bruce, I've decided against this as the horn is shipping on Tuesday to have the bell/bow plated professionally. I have done the crook though. It works perfectly although I imagine it will need a few more coats over the next week or so to build up the layers. On these results you shouldn't really have a problem.

Give me couple of hours and I'll post some pics of the crook.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
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