[pleve]

Any proven methods for shank bore reduction on a SS Berg? Yup, I know, new neck cork, plumber's tape etc, etc, non of which allows me to change quickly to other mpcs all of which have an almost common bore size. New neck? Stirling Super 20, not easy. Another mpc? I like this one(vintage). Thanks guys, I'm sure there's a fix somewhere in this pool of extraordinary talent that is SOTW.
plev

 

[Henry D]

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[MojoBari]

I do a similar thing with clear 5-min epoxy. Since it goes on thicker and not so uniform, it needs to be sanded open to size.

 

[backer]

Are there problems with toxicity or allergies when using these materials? I know some people develop allergies to certain brands of quick setting (5 minute) epoxy (check the rc plane modeling forums). This may just be while the epoxy is hardening and maybe it is clean afterward... just curious if anyone checked these things out as the material will probably come into contact with saliva.

 

[MojoBari]

I have MSDS sheets on the epoxies I use. In general the components are (a little) toxic but become inert when mixed and cured. But you need to read for yourself if you are concerned.

 

[pleve]

Thanks for the help guys, I have started with the nail polish, mainly because it is readily available in the house (also made the "purchasing department" very curious). If n-polish proves unable to handle the wear and tear then I plan to use an industrial epoxy. (plumber's grade) Should the P.G. epoxy fail then probaby dental or medical grade may do it. A failure in this grade would probably tip me over the edge into taking up bagpipes or crochet, maybe knitting or some other similar extreme hobbie.

 

[MojoBari]

Most plumbers' epoxy is a quick-set putty. Great for baffles, but too thick to work with for shank bore reductions.

 

[Giganova]

I've used paint with success before. One layer ... let it dry, try it out, next layer ... until it fits.