back on track: you could use some sort of thin plastic or rubber derivative laminate and glue it to the underside of the "cups" (the flat discs that closes the holes) The one padless horn I've serviced I used U rings and a rubberized self adehesive sheet that was .8mm thick and covered perfectly the space needed to align the cups with the somewhat shorter than needed square U ring profile I found. Plus: it was quieter after using some sort of "cushion" on both sides (padless horns are really noisy!)
you can put the silicone sealant into a syringe and use a #18G needle with the point grouded to achieve a smooth bead all around the place where the seal would go.
As a matter of fact, you could prepare everything and cut wedges to place each key at the exact height, then smear a couple of drops of oil under each key (the flat part that will come in contact with the seal) then put the silicone bead with the syringe and then clamp the key over the bead and let it cure. The oil will prevent the silicone from sticking to the key.
As to the original post, get some neoprene, a compass, and cut yourself some rings. There you have it.
Randall, I was thinking about glueing soft foam, it comes in 8"x11"sheets, onto thin leather and thin cutting out rings, or thick leather shoe strings glued in the ring slot. Neither seems right yet so I haven't done anything so far.
the padless have a mechanism and layout that's Buescher, wich is designed for work under a much "squishy" enviroment than the relatively thin and "dry" rubber ring (wich also has a greater contact area than a regular pad)
The rim has a thickness of about 1/8" and contacts with a metal disc. Even from the factory, I doubt the flatness of a brass disc hitting a hard rubber seal can be dependable in the long term for sealing.
so given that the mechanism is not specifically designed for operating padless, and the thick and hard seal (compared to a pad, even the hardest pad there is out there) I'd say that using any elastomer may improve the seal and action feel on those horns.
Now if we would be talking elastomers, I'd say that the materials I see replacing some of the stuff we use aren't elastomers... I can see polypropylene and polyethylene having a greater influence in our trade. I'm using a synt felt made out of woven polypropylene fibers, and it's just excellent. Of course the key in our trade would be integrating (mixing and matching) new and old technologies. I still use leather and assemble the pad as an "old school" pad, but using synt felt. When you're replacing materials, I find important to keep certain design features mostly untouched, so you deal just with replacing the materials and not with the added stress of putting a new material in a way the mechanism wasn't designed to take the replacement part in the first place.
Exactly. I have one. It’s a beauty. Really dark honey lacquer. Very reminiscent of hooves thundering at a gallop.But is also known as the galloping horn , a piece of history because it was there but it didn’t catch on. Great for collectors.
Yes and that’s why I fished out from the forgotten corner the posts above, you may want to follow that advise, especially Juan Caino knows his onions with Bueschers ( which this is )Exactly. I have one. It’s a beauty. Really dark honey lacquer. Very reminiscent of hooves thundering at a gallop.
It seems like a set of silicone or urethane rings could make it a real player.
It's just a bit strange to me that no one since, has tried the same concept but with modern materials. I have toyed with the idea of converting an el-cheapo but have never seriously considered it.