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Discussion Starter #1
Why do they do this ? ridiculous and pointless IMO.
I have on the bench a Serie11 Tenor for various usual 'tweaks'
On removing neck O/key I noticed the vent pip had took a hit and had sunk about 2 mm--the owner is unaware BTW. The pad must have absorbed most of the shock but nevertheless the depression can be seen. Normally this would be remedied by removing pip and raising depression in neck--relatively simple if pip is SOFT soldered in. Now I got caught out on a modern Selmer neck some time ago--luckily my own at the time-- and discovered that it was 'hard' soldered --so I'm reluctant to have a go at this one as the laquer is almost 100% and the horn plays well. If I try to raise the dent the ball is going to damage the vent tube inside the neck without removal of pip. Any thoughts on this guy's??
 

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Have you considered making a grooved dent ball similiar to the ones we use for inside the sax bodies with the body octave pip still fitted. Doesnt have to be a ball, but realistically a lump of steel with the centre filed out and a radiused top so you can rake the under sides of the area to lift.

Alternatively you could achieve the same with a bit of wood dowelling rebated for the octave pip to pass, and again rake the underside.

Last option, which would require some serious thought, and I have not done this, is to insert some wire through the octave pip onto a internal mandrel and dolly it out, you would have to give some serious thought to this one and I would even try shape the internal mandrel to fit the octave pip perfectly to distribute the load force
 

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Thanks Simso, food for thought there. Incidently the brass in this horn, around the bow area is the hardest I've ever come across there was a bad whack below Eb the guard post had gone in so being Selmer removed Bell and got to work-- wow ! nearly killed me! joking aside this is usually an 'easy' area but that brass sheet really was/is very hard stuff.
 

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There is always the option of drilling out the octave pip, removing the dent in the top of the neck, and then replacing it with a new pip. I would not recommend this unless the intonation of the sax is impaired by the octave vent being pushed in.
 

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There is always the option of drilling out the octave pip, removing the dent in the top of the neck, and then replacing it with a new pip. I would not recommend this unless the intonation of the sax is impaired by the octave vent being pushed in.
Had considered this but I think the customer would have a heart attack!!
Anyway I 've done it now , put a slot in my neck rod (homemade) located the vent tube put rod in vise and used rolling downward pressure and it's raised the pip, there's minor evidence of depression if you look closely but overall I'm happy.
 

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They've been silver soldering the crook 8ve inserts in for some time now - I think it became standard during the MkVI era, but it would be useful to know exactly when they decided this was the way to go for them (but not ideal for us).

Be aware they also spot weld some parts to the body from the SA80II onwards - the thumbrest baseplate, the RH main action keyguard posts and the LH palm key base are tacked onto the body with a spot weld (or more), so while the solder melts, the parts you want to remove stay firmly in place.
 

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Ferree makes a tool that attaches to the ball head of a post to pull it up with a dent puller. I have never tried it, but I wonder if the shape of the pip would allow you to make a tool to do similar repares. Some pips would I think. I don't know about the model horn you are repairing.
 

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Bop - Good to see you got it resolved

Matt - I have the ferees unit your talking about, they work good but do mark the posts. These days I find it quicker and easier to desolder any post in the damaged area and work from underneath with the post gone, then re-attach. I always find my dent work with the post left on could be "better"
 

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I wouldn't / don't use one on posts, however for pulling a silver soldered octave pip, if it fit, I would try it.
 
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