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My teacher who I bought from back in the '70s said it was silver. I do hope he wasn't lying.
It is not a question of lying, lots of people call “ silver” things that are only silverplate.

Being Solid Silver a rather important difference is the reason why many (but not all) flutes would have been stamped with some sort of identification (compulsory in the UK and France I believe)

I have had a solid silve r flute which wad made by Jack Moore and was never stamped silver, so, it can happen
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It is not a question of lying, lots of people call “ silver” things that are only silverplate.
Perhaps... it was a long time ago but my recollection is that I was told it was solid silver, not silver-plated. But again my memory can be off - that was nearly 50 years ago.
 

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this is a very modest Selmer Signet, still, coin silver, and they did bother to stamp it coin (lower grade than sterling) if your flute is not stamped silver is because it most probably, isn't



105796
 

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by the way, we have another thread about supposedly antique model 82 shown above (totally different from this supposedly model 83)



105799
 

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My teacher who I bought from back in the '70s said it was silver. I do hope he wasn't lying.
Well one quick test you can do to at least tell if the head joint is silver is to hold the crown (closed) end of the head joint very lightly in one hand and give the other open end a thump with your finger. If all you get is a sort of thud there's a good chance it's solid silver if you get a pleasant soft ringing sound like you might when doing this to a nice wine glass then it's nickel and silver plated.

Regardless I suspect you may find that this flute is worth more to you for sentimental reasons then it will be to a collector or player.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well one quick test you can do to at least tell if the head joint is silver is to hold the crown (closed) end of the head joint very lightly in one hand and give the other open end a thump with your finger...
Interesting. Well it sounds thuddy to me. So this flute has me going back and forth on what it is. Probably true what you say though about sentimental value.
 

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Aside from the exact details of what your flute is, it sounds like you are talking about replacing it. Why do you want to replace it? Have you played other high quality instruments to compare? What did they do that yours won't?

While I am not a big fan of "vintage" flutes in most cases (unlike my opinions about saxophones), I think you ought at least to examine your motivation.

Want it to be easier to make a big sound? Look into a different head joint. Or even having that one re-cut.
Mechanism is clunky compared to a modern quality instrument? That's probably a new/modern instrument.
Lots of wear in the mechanism, needs complete overhaul? Well, it'll be a question of how much the overhaul costs and what you end up with afterward, vs. the cost of buying a different horn. You might very well decide the thorough mechanical overhaul is the approach you want to take.
Just want a new top quality flute, because you want it? Go for your life, mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Aside from the exact details of what your flute is, it sounds like you are talking about replacing it. Why do you want to replace it? Have you played other high quality instruments to compare? What did they do that yours won't?
Doesn't need an overhaul... I've had it regularly maintained for the last 25 years. The guy I've been using for the last 25 years is the same guy who handles the instruments for Brubeck Family. When I first brought the flute to him it was after a long period of not playing and so it had an overhaul then. He, in fact, had commented on it being a fine instrument and had lead me to believe it was valuable. (He handles my saxophones as well.) Back when I first got the flute from my teacher and through college I had it maintained by the tech who used to maintain the wind instruments for the New York Philharmonic. It was between that time and my current guy that I was broke enough to do my best keeping it up myself.

As far as what I want. Yes, a bigger/fuller sound. Mechanics seem to me to work just fine.

I do believe I need to try out a number of different options from a different head joint to trying out modern instruments.
 

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new flutes that are 80 years younger than this horn will be immensely better no questions about that.

The Japanese have revolutionized flutes. Intonation, mechanics and just about everything else will be vastly superior updating. Just take the horn with you and go to play a Japanese made flute.

Yamaha professional line are often underrated compared to Muramatsu and can be bought cheaper



maybe you can’t afford a new series 9 but other series are also very good
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
new flutes that are 80 years younger than this horn will be immensely better no questions about that.

The Japanese have revolutionized flutes. Intonation, mechanics and just about everything else will be vastly superior updating. Just take the horn with you and go to play a Japanese made flute.

Yamaha professional line are often underrated compared to Muramatsu and can be bought cheaper


maybe you can’t afford a new series 9 but other series are also very good
Well - $30K for a 900 series flute is definitely out of my budget. Hence in my first post why I asked if anyone had info on comparisons between what I have now and a Yamaha YFL-677HCT. $3000-$5000 would be my price range.
 

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they are excellent flutes and even more so when bought secondhand since they tend to lose more value than a Muramatsu
 

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You can get a Miyazawa 202 for just shy of $5000. That's what I play. It is a very high quality professional grade flute, but it's silver plated body and sterling head. Personally I don't subscribe to the sterling flute obsession. Miyazawa are claimed to apply the same level of handwork to their plated flutes as to the solid silver ones, and I can tell you mine plays like a Powell or Haynes solid silver flute.

After all, Louis Lot and Bonneville made lots of flutes of "maillechort" (what we call nickel silver), plated, and no one suggests they're somehow "lesser".

Sankyo, Muramatsu, and a couple others offer their versions of this flute at around the same price, all of them very fine instruments.

So for right at $5k you can get your "forever" flute, a flute that you'll never have to regret. You should try something like this and compare it to what you have now.
 

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Get the best modern flute you can afford after trying them out.... and you'll find yourself dancing and singing the opening lyrics of...
Cheek to Cheek. :love:
 

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Interesting. Well it sounds thuddy to me. So this flute has me going back and forth on what it is. Probably true what you say though about sentimental value.
Here's an example - skip to around the 1 minute mark to just hear the difference.

FWIW, I tend to be with milandro when it comes to flutes. If you haven't test played a newer instrument there's a good chance a low intermediate or even a good student level flute will out play what you presently have. Though as turf has suggested if you like the body and mechanism you presently have trying some head joints may also be a good option.

I have a Yamaha YFL-684 as well as a Muramatsu GXIII. I prefer the GXIII because of the 3rd octave response and intonation which I find easier but there are loads of nice playing flutes within your budget so trying them for yourself is key. When I bought the Muramatsu about 3 years ago I tried about 10 other flutes at the same time including some in the $10k - $20k range and still preferred the GX. You may fall in love with a flute that costs $5k and that's fine but I'd try and play some instruments at all different price ranges to get an idea of both what works for you as well as when diminishing returns set in.
 

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I might add:
be careful not to roll over on your new flute, in your sleep, when you take it to bed with you at night... or daytime if you work nights.
"Love is a Waltz"
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Here's an example - skip to around the 1 minute mark to just hear the difference.

FWIW, I tend to be with milandro when it comes to flutes. If you haven't test played a newer instrument there's a good chance a low intermediate or even a good student level flute will out play what you presently have. Though as turf has suggested if you like the body and mechanism you presently have trying some head joints may also be a good option.

I have a Yamaha YFL-684 as well as a Muramatsu GXIII. I prefer the GXIII because of the 3rd octave response and intonation which I find easier but there are loads of nice playing flutes within your budget so trying them for yourself is key. When I bought the Muramatsu about 3 years ago I tried about 10 other flutes at the same time including some in the $10k - $20k range and still preferred the GX. You may fall in love with a flute that costs $5k and that's fine but I'd try and play some instruments at all different price ranges to get an idea of both what works for you as well as when diminishing returns set in.
That was useful. Well, there is definitely no ringing sound. It's a thud for sure. I not only used my nail, I also tapped it lightly with a piece of metal. Thud. I will put the Yamaha and the Muramatsu on my list to check out, along with the others people here have mentioned. As well as try out head joints with my current flute.
 

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The thickness would probably dull any "ring". Your flute is all silver, probably sterling. With Selmer US, up until the 50s or so, if it said Selmer, it probably was all silver and that rings true to my experience. The order on Selmer flutes from at least the 50s to the 80s was Bundy=plated, Signet=coin head or coin body and head., Selmer=all silver.
since your flute is in playing condition, keep it !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
If anyone's interested you can hear my flute on this piece I wrote, performing with The New England New Music Ensemble, in 2015, at the Newtown Arts Festival. https://soundcloud.com/robert-rabinowitz%2Fthe-forgotten-hand-of-metal-by-robert-rabinowitz and from 2017 on Eric Ewazen's "Wildflowers" https://soundcloud.com/robert-rabinowitz%2Fwildflowers-nenme and also back in 1984, same flute, with Jai Jeffryes on piano - at Arizona State University (Master of Music in Composition) - a piece I wrote called Quip: https://soundcloud.com/robert-rabinowitz%2Fquip
 

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the recordings are not of any great quality that one can tell much about the quality of the flute ( while we can certainly hear that the player @Robert Are is a very good one) based on this, the sound appears rather tinny and thin but is it the flute or the recording? and would another fuse sound differently played by the same player ?

I often visit Matthew’s and the owner is a flute player who used to play concerts for a large part of his life. Often customers on a flute quest try several flutes , occasionally they ask opinions about the sound. Some players obviously benefit from changing from one flute to another (and interestingly not always in a univocal way that one can say it is the flute but sometimes a flute performs better in some hands than some others).

You really need to go to a place where there are many flutes to try of this would be a lucky shot attempt based only on price and brand.
 

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When I got my Muramatsu in 76 it came direct from the factory, no play test.
When I bought my Altus I spent a whole afternoon auditioning different models of that maker.
 
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