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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Before and after. Click on to view and they orientate correctly for unknown reason.:dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Time to work on making it play better with that mouthpiece...or not. Some adjustments in pinky table are needed too. B&W picture makes me think of these two instruments when new a long time ago. Piano is two years older than Sax.
 

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You may want to change the cork inside the mouthpiece as it can become brittle from not removing the mouthpiece from the bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
You may want to change the cork inside the mouthpiece as it can become brittle from not removing the mouthpiece from the bit.
Thanks Bruce!
From this picture I found on Saxpics.com it looks like a cork covered tube? If so can this be used with other mouthpieces? I thought this was a permanent assembly. That would be a fantastic fix instead of corking the neck.
Do you have any experience playing on this original set up? Is it worth the Hassle? Nostalgia is good to a certain point. But like all the old things I have they are used and enjoyed. Providing it does not permanently alter something I'm game for modern fixes. Any threads on this fix ?
 

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Hi Matt, thanks for letting us now. My apologies. I remember seeing a video of a quality tech using 80/90w GL5 gear oil as a lubricant. I couldn't remember where. The service was on brass not silver. I didn't think much about it until sulfur & silver in this thread. Thanks for your many great videos and the open source project.
Stephen Howard in the Haynes Saxophone Manual recommends using 75-90W SYNTHETIC gear oil for lubricating saxophone keys. I use it, seems to be OK. Not sure about the sulfur content, might be brand dependent. I use Mobil 1. There's no silver on either of my tenors, so I'm not worried... I've been contemplating switching to Ultimax on my next tear-down-and-lube.
 

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Horn looks amazing.

FWIW GL5 rated gear oils typically has about double the sulphur content of GL4 grades, however there are low/no sulphur versions out there.
 

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Thanks Bruce!
From this picture I found on Saxpics.com it looks like a cork covered tube? If so can this be used with other mouthpieces? I thought this was a permanent assembly. That would be a fantastic fix instead of corking the neck.
Do you have any experience playing on this original set up? Is it worth the Hassle? Nostalgia is good to a certain point. But like all the old things I have they are used and enjoyed. Providing it does not permanently alter something I'm game for modern fixes. Any threads on this fix ?
It sort of works like the Conn tuner but a slide with a clamp. There are a lot of Holtons that are missing this bit as it gets tossed with the old mouthpiece. You can use any mouthpiece you want. Just get the bit recorked and not the neck. Nice find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Horn looks amazing.

FWIW GL5 rated gear oils typically has about double the sulphur content of GL4 grades, however there are low/no sulphur versions out there.
Thanks for the compliment. Is been a fun project so far.
Yes GL5 is nasty in this regard. Low/no content....sorry I don't trust the automotive labels for my silver sax.
However a guaranteed safe bet from a quality maker would be this.
https://usa.yamaha.com/products/musical_instruments/winds/accessories/yac_hko/index.html
Sometimes it's best not to gamble. These little bottles last years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
It sort of works like the Conn tuner but a slide with a clamp. There are a lot of Holtons that are missing this bit as it gets tossed with the old mouthpiece. You can use any mouthpiece you want. Just get the bit recorked and not the neck. Nice find.
I think the source of the problem has been identified. Thanks for the suggestion. Didn't think to look at the cork!
Now how to separate the parts without hurting something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Stephen Howard in the Haynes Saxophone Manual recommends using 75-90W SYNTHETIC gear oil for lubricating saxophone keys.
Just looked that up. Yep chapter 10 " lubricants " picture of bottle included. I think it's a good choice just not around silver. If I could just remember who had that video....it's bugging me now.
 

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I think the source of the problem has been identified. Thanks for the suggestion. Didn't think to look at the cork!
Now how to separate the parts without hurting something?
Take a small screwdriver and poke out as much of the cork as possible. Then the bit should be easy to pull out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Take a small screwdriver and poke out as much of the cork as possible. Then the bit should be easy to pull out.
I figured out how to test it for leaks. I put a rubber cork in the neck tendon. Then I held the pip down with one finger with the mouthpiece on the neck I brushed it lightly with some dish soap and blew it. Didn't get any bubbles holding pressure on 10-15 seconds. However I will recork it soon. Would like to try another mouthpiece. As the tip opening and face leave little to be desired. As noted in some of the other threads. Don't waste your time with anything less than a 2-1/2 reed....anyone have a #4?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
So it’s alive and it plays. I like it....words to describe the sound. A big fat soprano.
Enough with the fiddling. Trying to get these ancient marshmallow pads to stay put is a lost cause. They absorb so much moisture from the daily humidity change it’s just crazy. However I will be able to get it to play enough for a reasonable sound test. Maybe a bit out of tune, oh well. Just don’t be looking at a digital tuner while listening. You don’t want to know. FWIW at one point I ran an electric hairdryer down the bell for about five minutes on a real cool temperature to dry some of the humidity out. Two pads I was fighting to get quit leaking fit fine....grrrr! Just about anything over 22 mm is not staying put. There are 13 pads over 25 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
That original mouthpiece will really sound tubby but should be kept with the horn for future value.
Thanks Bruce, Any suggestion for a known mouthpiece that works? Baffle or chamber suggestions for a starting point?
Also thanks for the suggestion on retaining the parts. I catalog all the contents of any package acquired . The parts will always be retained even the neck strap. The lyre has not one scratch from the screw post Small clues that paint the picture of it's life. With the exception of the handle missing on the case this was like opening a 90 year old time capsule. Something you don't find it very often. I'm tortured on the idea of re-pading it. It's a museum quality piece. But I also believe museum pieces should be used. What good is a museum quality car if you don't use it. Ask Jay Leno.
 

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