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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a significant improvement with Roo pads to warrant getting them put on a new horn, or is this the sax equivalent of getting spinning 20 inch rims on your car?
 

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Whilst I highly encourage others to do there own repad work and general repairs, I would not encourage a first timer to use roo pads, whilst they are a beauitful product, they are hard, and require implicit attention to detail to make work right, your keywork must be good, your floating skills must be good, your toneholes must be level, any compromises on these and you will be doing finger strength exercises when you play to overcome these issues.

Start out with curts general purpose pads. leave the roo ones till youve got a couple under your belt..
 

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Oh, so people do it themselves? then it's only paying for the pads.... that's not so bad. But if you paid someone to do it for you, wouldn't it be the price of an overhaul?
 

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Reply, getting cofused.

Your other post was regarding what tools one needs for repair, so I made an assumption you were going to use roo pads as your first repair, IMO bad choice. EDIT ... I just noticed the other topic was not from yourself. Apologies

If your paying someone to do it, then yes go for it, they are a nice hard product, the life span and any ongoing issues are an unknown as there a relatively new product to the market, only time will tell, but so far, only positive feedback has really been heard.

I always charge more when customers choose there own pads, I have my pads which I use in my fixed price repad, if someone wishes to have roo pads instead, no probs, I adjust the price to cover for the purchase of the pads on there behalf, so my ""small"" profit margin does not change. Some repairers charge sub 500 for repads some charge sub 1000, and some charge sub 1500. This profit margin factor plays a vital part when choosing expensive parts like roo pads. This would be consistent really with any repairer.
 

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I have them on newer alto and baritone, and I really like them. They have a very different feel from other pads. They're not everyone's cup of tea, but I dig how quiet they are.
 

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But if you had a brand new horn with pads that worked correctly, would you put in Roos anyway?
No point if the original pads are performing well. If the G# starts sticking I'd have a Roo put in, or for any sticking pad for that matter.

Then when new pads are called for I choose Roo in my saxes.
 

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I dont know too much about roo pads but i've heard if something works well don't change it "if it aint broken dont fix it".
 

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But if you had a brand new horn with pads that worked correctly, would you put in Roos anyway?
Nope. My tenor and current bari have Precision pads in them, the Alto, the Sop, and the C-Mel all have white Roos.

To be completely honest, the difference is very subtle. Mostly I just like the look of the white Roos on really ancient horns. I can't really tell any significant difference in the response, and yes, they both stick, regardless of what anyone else says.
 

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If your pads are working well why would you want to change them. I had to change the pads on my JK as they had sticky pad syndrome but that was out of necessity.
 

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As I said in another thread, once I went to see my tech and I saw him overhauling a new horn (it was a P.Mauriat incidentally) because the owner just didn't like the look of the pads , so these things happen. They are not logical but most of us do illogical and expensive choices in our lives at some point or other. Some brands, like Barone, offer the option to fit Roo Pads ® or perhaps Kangaroo pads (I was gently told off before by my friend Curt Altarac to have liberally been using the name Roo Pads ® in the past when I should have used the term Kangaroo pads since Roo Pads ® is a Music Medic product the other Kangaroo pads in the world aren't made by him !).

Now I am having my Super 20 tenor overhauled and it will be fitted with white Roo Pads ® :bluewink: (yes Curt! Yours!) and Tenor Madness resonators (sorry Curt!) . Because I love the look of both. Would I have done this to a new horn? NO! Would I have bought it that way if I were given the option? Yes, I probably would.
 

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(I was gently told off before by my friend Curt Altarac to have liberally been using the name Roo Pads ® in the past when I should have used the term Kangaroo pads since Roo Pads ® is a Music Medic product the other Kangaroo pads in the world aren't made by him !).
So maybe the trademark "Kanga Pads" is available for someone who wants to market "the mother of Roo ®" pads.
 

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Kanga Pads........not a bad idea! Are you game on this ? :bluewink: !
 

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Just thought I'd chime and let you know to be careful with white roo pads I had them put on just under a year ago and with a fair bit of playing and not very much cleaning they turn a little bit green and accumulate a fair bit of gunk. Ive just started using pad life on them and that doesn't do a huge amount for the problem either. Hopefully with more consistent pad life use the gunk build up will lessen but I think the green tinge is there to stay. Would have chosen the black ones if I could do it again. As for the actual question. It's a very subtle difference if any at all. I think just having new pads made the difference for me. I wouldn't do it for a sax that doesn't need a repad. Lots of more fun things to spend the money on. :)


Oh and yes I agree that they do indeed stick! C# and G# :(
 

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there are several threads on cleaning white kangaroo pads
 

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".Is there a significant improvement with Roo pads to warrant getting them put on a new horn"

No. IMO How an instrument plays after padding, providing the pads are of reasonable quality, depends on the workmanship of whoever installed them. Not the pads.
 
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