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Although it has been re-plated and re-engraved nicely (maybe Gayle of Vintagesax.com or Sarge of Worldwidesax had this done?), it is a redo. Original, superb condition horns might be worth this, and say a 30M, but for a later, post war model 10M (right before the elimination of the rolled tone holes etc.), I think it is all of it's money if not too expensive.

It will likely be a nice player that is pretty to look at, but you might not get all of your money back, or a profit, if you should re-sell it anytime soon.

Plus, I wouldn't plunk down $3,000 on a horn if I couldn't play test it before buying, or at least have a solid return option.
 

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Carbs said:
looks like their is no damage though.
It's a rebuilt horn and as such wouldn't show prior damage unless upon closer inspection. This has been sitting on the market for a while. Probably because you can still find them in their original silver for right around this price; and maybe less. Considering how long it's been offered for sale, you could probably make them an offer for less. At least there's a seven day trial policy, but you can't forget a hundred dollar restocking fee, and of course shipping.
 

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Au contraire Grumps. Nothing fussy about a 10m if it's set up well, which most are NOT. And for mouthpiece choices, as long as you use a mouthpiece with a medium or large chamber you should have no trouble with mouthpieces and even less trouble with reeds. If a player insists upon playing a "paint peeler" with a small chamber he'll have trouble playing in tune on most horns, somewhat more so on a Vintage Conn. Conn's are no more difficult to play than a Selmer or Super 20 or.....whatever. It's just that so many of them have LOUSY, truly horrible pad work on them, if they've been touched at ALL. I have NINE Conn 10m's here, all from the 1930/40's. They all have most of the original pads still in them. None have ever been overhauled. This is not exceptional, it is typical. The lack of good work on most Conns is what gives them the reputation of being "Fussy."
You are all welcome to come play my own personal 10m if you're in Boston. It's typical of the horns I sell. You'll like it.
 

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I know of the guy who did this one and he probably did it himself.
I would not buy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Les - Your 10M info is much appreciated... As soon as I get a few chops under my belt, I'll visit you and try one...

What's the deal with 30M - is it a turbo charged 10M? Is it really any better? Does it lack anything in comparison to a 10M?

Thanks!
 

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Grumps,
The low D is always touchy when it's leaking. When it's not leaking.....it's not touchy.
The best way to make your (not Grumps, personally) low notes "touchy" on any horn is to drop your jaw when you go down there. DON'T drop your jaw.

I've never found anything about the 30m to recommend it over the 10m. The key work is needlessly complicated, adds a lot of weight and provides no advantage in terms of speed or comfort. If the 30m was better than the 10m that's what I would play. If it had a better "ring" to the tone or a more complex array of overtones or ...something, I would play the 30m. But it doesn't.
 

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Les knows a heck of a lot more than I do about saxophones but I'm going to disagree about the 10M vs. 30M ergonomics.

I loved my 10M but it just killed my hands. I've played a 26M alto for years comfortably, so I'm used to the Connqueror keywork. Once I got my 30M my hand pain went away, and shortly thereafter so did the 10M.

Other than the keywork, and neck octave mechanism, the 10M and 30M are exactly the same horn, IMHO. They're both a gas to play, but the 30M may be more friendly to those with smaller hands. YMMV, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wicked Good said:
I loved my 10M but it just killed my hands. ...

They're both a gas to play, but the 30M may be more friendly to those with smaller hands.
You're the second 10M player in a week that's mentioned about hurting hands. I'm curious, how does the 10M hurt? Is it awkward to hold? bad thumb hook? keys too far apart? or what?

And how does the 30M fix that/those problem(s)?

I definitely have small'ish hands rather than big ones (like Les? :) )

Many thanks!
 

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les said:
Grumps,
The low D is always touchy when it's leaking. When it's not leaking.....it's not touchy.
Many folks report difficulty around said note on 10M's; enough of which to confirm the quirk. Mine is fairly mouthpiece dependant; working better with some than others. Either way, a bit of extra support can keep it from breaking up at extreme soft volume (takes alot of air to fill that big bow, as per Paul L.). Of course when there's a leak, the surrounding notes take a hit and it's more difficult to control.
 

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Zax,
I have small hands. The Selmer (MK VI) thumbhook always killed my thumb no matter how I set it. For thirty years it killed my thumb. The ergonomics of the right hand thumbhook have more to do with how your hand is shaped rather than how big your hand is. Plenty of players with hands smaller (and larger) than mine find the Selmer thumb hook comfortable. Vive' La Difference!
 

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I have heard so much about Conn's and Naked Lady's, that when i recently ran into a Silver Plated RTH one at my tech's, that I couldn't wait to try it..

To be quite honest, after all the hype I was pretty disappointed. Nice sax, no doubt, good sound, mechanism quite OK just the Eb placed a little lower than expected, but nothing you can't adjust to within a couple of minutes...

but as for the rest.. pff -lol
 

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zaxroots said:
You're the second 10M player in a week that's mentioned about hurting hands. I'm curious, how does the 10M hurt? Is it awkward to hold? bad thumb hook? keys too far apart? or what?

And how does the 30M fix that/those problem(s)?

I definitely have small'ish hands rather than big ones (like Les? :) )

Many thanks!
Well, I found that the reach on my 10M, particularly on the right hand between the thumb hook and the "keyboard", felt like I was trying to put my hand around a tree. It was too far a reach for me. (And I didn't find out about the Codera thumb hook until after I'd sold the horn. Oh well.)

My 30M doesn't seem to have as big a reach as did my 10M, and therefore playing the 30M doesn't hurt, unlike the the 10M did. Maybe because I've played the 26M alto for so long I'm just used to that keywork; the 30M just feels like a bigger 26M to me.

Maybe that's not much help to you, but it is what I've personally experienced. If you can take the keywork then a 10M is a great horn.
 
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