[Figaro]

Spending today in the shop working on this Bundy II alto. I plan on letting this one go to offset the cash I spent buying the Martin tenor.

I picked up an inexpensive pad set on Amazon from Instrument Clinic. The $50 kit includes pads, a stick of shellac, plastic hot glue pellets, oil, key wedges, neck cork, cork grease, key polish, a leak light and instructions.

The pads currently on the horn aren't terrible and it plays OK but a few are close to leaking and the tone holes have some light corrosion where they contact the pad from sitting in the case for some time. So as I replace pads I'm very carefully cleaning up tone holes with a small flat file. I'm halfway done after about 1.5 hours of work.

I've also ordered a new/used key guard from Ebay for the low D# key as the one on the horn is pretty corroded. This horn sat in the case for years I'm guessing. Should make for a good beginner or student horn when done.

Any suggestions for removing the red oxide from the areas missing lacquer?

 

[saxoclese]

At this point there is not much that can be done cosmetically. You can remove the corroded spots with metal polish and steel wool, but then you have bright shiny areas where they used to be that stick out even more. The only real solution cosmetically would be to remove the lacquer and either polish the brass or give it a "brushed brass" finish with either steel wool or 3M maroon abrasive pads and wheels. I have done both and it is a lot of work. I wouldn't bother on a Bundy II. Just play it in dimly lit rooms and no one will notice.

 

[Figaro]

Done! That actually went pretty well. There was a lot of green stuff to clean from the tone holes but otherwise they looked OK.
This is interesting. The pad they gave me for the low C key was too big by about 2mm. BUT, I had mistakenly ordered one too many 42.5,, pads for the Holton so, serendipity! I had the pad I needed. Also had two pads left over even thought I ordered a set for a "Bundy II Alto". Hey you get what you pay for right? I was not yet aware of Music Medic when I orderd them. So, I now have three extra pads on the bench.

I gave it a blow and it actually plays better, easier in fact so I guess I had a few leaks.

 

[ptung]

#1 dip in Empire (the pink stuff from Ferree's) -- quickly, it could harm your lacquer -- and immediately wash and dry thoroughly, and oil the springs if you left them in. If spot treating (a better idea), same idea, but with a cloth, and effort to stay off lacquer.
#2 polish with either a cloth or finest grade steel wool followed by a very mild -- the mildest you can practically use -- metal polish and whatever material allows you to match the "gloss" factor to your best satisfaction. Be aware that the polish may be very effective at removing lacquer. Brasso will take some old nitrocellulose lacquers and "glues" right off.
#3 allow to develop a patina if you like
#4 seal with nitrocellulose (you will have to develop your own rigamarole for this, it's a big topic)

#5 your results are your own. I am not recommending you do this, and am not responsible for anything you do. Exposure to pretty much all the items I mention has some potential health effects, so gloves, eye protection and an organic vapor mask are a good idea if you want to take precautions for all materials. The fumes from the Empire part of the process seem to be particularly suspect, to me, based on experience. There are some gnarly warnings on the Empire label, too, I think, but I don't have one near me to check.

 

[Figaro]

#1 dip in Empire (the pink stuff from Ferree's) -- quickly, it could harm your lacquer -- and immediately wash and dry thoroughly, and oil the springs if you left them in. If spot treating (a better idea), same idea, but with a cloth, and effort to stay off lacquer.
#2 polish with either a cloth or finest grade steel wool followed by a very mild -- the mildest you can practically use -- metal polish and whatever material allows you to match the "gloss" factor to your best satisfaction. Be aware that the polish may be very effective at removing lacquer. Brasso will take some old nitrocellulose lacquers and "glues" right off.
#3 allow to develop a patina if you like
#4 seal with nitrocellulose (you will have to develop your own rigamarole for this, it's a big topic)

#5 your results are your own. I am not recommending you do this, and am not responsible for anything you do. Exposure to pretty much all the items I mention has some potential health effects, so gloves, eye protection and an organic vapor mask are a good idea if you want to take precautions for all materials. The fumes from the Empire part of the process seem to be particularly suspect, to me, based on experience. There are some gnarly warnings on the Empire label, too, I think, but I don't have one near me to check.

Thanks for the advice. I'm a safety nut with vapors and respirators. I want my lungs to last and keep the toxic chemicals out of my liver.
If this was a better horn I'd probably go that far but I think I'll just hit it with a bit of 0000 steel wool and polish with a jewelers cloth.

 

[ptung]

Thanks for the advice. I'm a safety nut with vapors and respirators. I want my lungs to last and keep the toxic chemicals out of my liver.
If this was a better horn I'd probably go that far but I think I'll just hit it with a bit of 0000 steel wool and polish with a jewelers cloth.

The steel wool is part of why you need a respirator: it will shed a lot of metal "dust" (filaments). If you work over a cardboard box or something when you do that part, you'll see what I mean. Good luck!

 

[Figaro]

The steel wool is part of why you need a respirator: it will shed a lot of metal "dust" (filaments). If you work over a cardboard box or something when you do that part, you'll see what I mean. Good luck!

I've seen what sheds from steel wool and yeah, probably a good idea to wear some protection. Thanks.

I've actually decided to just clean this horn up as best as I can and call it good. It plays well and it is what it is.

 

[ptung]

:beer: