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I find that adjusting your reeds makes their playability last longer. It is something I learned from my teacher, which I had never heard of before college. Also if you have a problem with reeds warping, which is quite a problem here in South Louisiana, there are things you can do to fix and prevent it from happening as often (reeds will always warp when humidity/moisture is present). keeping your reeds unwarped also greatly improves their sound quality.

--JOSH
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just don't see how anyone can play without adjusting their reeds. They will work so much better from top to bottom. It will make the D2 ring like a bell and the response will be greatly increased. It will improve the tone overall and remove the stuffy sound.
 

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@YPYAJ what do you do to make your reeds not warp from humidity?

@speyman what exactly do you do to your reeds to achieve that??

thanx, Nikolas :)
 

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S. Goodman has some info on his site on the basics of reed adjusting. There are a couple good books on the subject as well, but the SG site is free (was free last time i looked?).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is what I'm using. http://www.ridenourclarinetproducts.com/ATG1.html If you knew the proceedure he is using you could save a lot of money as the rest of the deal is just glass plate, sand paper and sanding block. I wish I had had this years ago as it would have made things (reeds) much easier to deal with and would have saved money. This method will make BAD reeds play good. You'll get more out of the box that are players.
 

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It isn't rocket science, but there is some art to it. If you can't handle a knife safely it takes a bit more time using other methods, but for $3 I have a simple setup which does the job quite nicely.
 

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I just break mine in during practice. If they don't work, they go back in the drawer. If I wanted to obsess about working on reeds, I'd still play oboe.

YMMV, however.
 

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hakukani said:
If I wanted to obsess about working on reeds, I'd still play oboe.

YMMV, however.
That's why I play synthetic, slap it on and go. No dry reed problems when doubling. But for the odd instrument that has no synthetic available, like contrabass clarinet, a blade and a silver dollar are awfully handy. I pity people who have to buy many of those reeds to get one that plays.:cool:
 

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hakukani said:
I just break mine in during practice. If they don't work, they go back in the drawer. If I wanted to obsess about working on reeds, I'd still play oboe.
That's my way, too. I MAY fiddle with them with reed rush (or that new Vandoren reed stick thingy, but I HATE spending the time. I find a couple per box I can live with save the others for a rainy day...at which point I throw them out usually. I'm sure I'm spending more $ on reeds than those of you who work on them, but it's been worth it for me to have the horn in my face longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It takes me about 10 min. for me to get a reed adjusted. I usually have about 3 good ones ready to go at any time. They do play MUCH better than 99% of the reeds that I've played straight from the box.
 

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bbbouklas said:
@YPYAJ what do you do to make your reeds not warp from humidity?

@speyman what exactly do you do to your reeds to achieve that??

thanx, Nikolas :)
Its not that I do things to keep the reeds from warping, its just keeping them in shape. First of all, using Silicone sandpaper, I use 420 to "polish the reed." THis keeps some of the water out. Another thing is usnig water instead of spit to wet your reeds, chemicals in saliva break down the cane and cause warpage. Another thing is just, if you notice a reed playing a little different than usual, check it by lying it on a flat surface, I use a small piece of plate glas that i got from a glass place for free 2"X4". You lay the reed down on that and press around the edges, or you can tell visually once you know what you're looking for. If when you press on the edges of the vamp, you notice that you have to push on the reed a little to get it to touch the glass completely, or you can see the reed not touching the glass all the way around, you have a warped reed. If it is warped, just take some sandpaper, I think I use 220 for this, put it between the glass and the reed, and rub the reed back and forth until it sits flat on the glass by itself, or you can check by using the suck test. Sometimes if you have to sand a lot, you may need to clip the reed.

--Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't think that I should describe exactly what I do to the reed when adjusting as it wouldn't be fair to RIDENOUR. All I can say is that I adjust (sand) the reed so that BOTH tip coners sound the same (have that ring) and then sand the reed (the complete tip) so that the low notes play easily and the upper notes also play easily. I can't stress how much difference this adjustment method makes the reeds playable. It makes playing very easy and there are no areas that are difficult to play. I also can't believe that more people are interested in adjusting their reeds (hence looking at this thread) as it makes so much difference. To each their own, but I think that this is a very important area that some attention should be paid. I don't know how many reeds that I've thrown away as they didn't play correctly over the years (50) and if I had known about this RIDENOUR method for adjusting reeds I would have saved most of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Balancing

Carl H. said:
Sounds like a standard balancing/matching to me.
OK, great. Now can you describe what you do to the reed so that others on SOTW can understand what it is all about? Maybe we shouldn't take things for granted regarding this subject so that others can learn which is what SOTW is all about.
 

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If you notice, I posted earlier where a free basic guide to reed adjusting could be found. It isn't that complicated if you understand what is going on. I taught all my students how to do it as well as gave them all the necessary materials with which to do the work on their own time. I have purchased and read several books dealing with the subject, but don't see the need to go into detail as I have never published any of the handouts I gave my students on the subject. They were for the use of my students.

The SG site does a fine job of explaining the basics. I am intentionally not giving the link due to his history with SOTW and his petty attitude. If you want it go look for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Goodman

Carl H. said:
S. Goodman has some info on his site on the basics of reed adjusting. There are a couple good books on the subject as well, but the SG site is free (was free last time i looked?).
Who the hell is S. Goodman?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Explain

Carl H. said:
It isn't rocket science, but there is some art to it. If you can't handle a knife safely it takes a bit more time using other methods, but for $3 I have a simple setup which does the job quite nicely.
If it's not rocket science then you should be able to explain to the people on SOTW or maybe you would like to keep that to yourself and just posture a bit as you know something that someone else doesn't know. Just what is that simple setup you have that does the job quite nicely or is that another trade secret of your and is not for the eyes of people on SOTW.
 

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Why the hostility?

speyman said:
Just what is that simple setup you have that does the job quite nicely or is that another trade secret of your and is not for the eyes of people on SOTW.

Single edge razor, and a clear welding lens protector from any hardware store is all you need.

speyman said:
Who the hell is S. Goodman?
You knew who I meant.

speyman said:
Maybe you could point that out.
As I said, It's been a while since I was at his site.
 
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