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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up an old bundy tenor from craigslist a while back and I am finally getting around to redoing the entire sax. It was is mechanically decent shape but the pads were falling out and it is painted (from the factory) an ugly gold sparkle color.

I have completetly stripped it down, removed all keys and springs, stripped all the paint and sent it to my painter to have it painted.

The plan is to paint it bright red. My 7 year old son picked the color. Supposed to look like the car christine from the movie. He hasn't seen the movie but he like the look of the car. Figured that would be a fun way to do it and it gives my sax a fun name at the same time.

I'll post pictures soon of the entire process.

This is my first attempt at rebuilding/repadding a sax and should be a fun learning experience. This horn wasn't worth much to begin with so I figure I can't do much to devalue it anymore and I'm am sure I can improve the way it played from original by paying close attention to leveling and smothing the tone holes and properly seating the pads. several of the toneholes are very rough so that should be a good place to improve things. I will also be adding resonators to it.

This is a budget job and I hope to come in under $250 total including the cost of the instrument when all is said and done.

Feel free to comment, good or bad. I can take it.
 

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Looks like fun. I did something similar to some old beater horns and it eventually landed me a job working as an apprentice repair-man fixing saxophones. From my experience (so far about 1 year of being officially hired) the re-springing and tone hole leveling process is pretty arduous. You have to be exceptionally careful in leveling tone holes, especially when using the filing method. Once those factors are set, having the correct pad sizes and other materials on hand, the project starts picking up pace. As for pads-- musicmedic Precision pads are really nice and they don't tend to stick as much as some other brands. Tech cork is great for setting timing corks, but they don't work too well on the feet of keys because they are a bit noisy. Anyway, have fun with it, sounds like you already are. That's my advice as only an apprentice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What would the finish on the keywork be on this sax, silverplate or is it chrome. Suggestions for the best cleaner/polish would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I had a good friend in elementary and high school with one of those old Selmer/Bundys. Always thought that finish was ugly but it was a pretty good horn in his hands. Btw, anyone know what they called that finish?
Back then it was sold as a very durable finish and iirc it held up very well for him.
 

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What would the finish on the keywork be on this sax, silverplate or is it chrome. Suggestions for the best cleaner/polish would be greatly appreciated.
IIRC, the key work plating on my friend's Bundy was nickel plated. It was "just" a student grade sax.
But, I'm certainly willing to be corrected by someone who knows better. Just thought I'd throw that out for consideration.
 

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Flames, or paint it like the intake of a JT9. Been awhile since I worked heavy aircraft, you pick your fav engine.

K
43 yrs of sax and motorcycles and going strong.
 

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One of these days I'm going to get my hands on one of these and do something like what you're thinking, except I'm thinking I'll have an artist friend airbrush it. My plan is to give him the horn, a handful of keywords, and let him knock himself out. It'll be obnoxious, but I own a green clarinet... and I figure if you're gonna show up at a gig with something like that, you'd best be able to PLAY.

Which reminds me... I need to take the green clarinet to a rehearsal band I'm subbing on tomorrow night. :)
 

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I've seen many butts that looks glorious... but I never seen one nice metallic **** colored bundy :twisted:
 

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I always thought it would be cool to rebuild one of these. Since they are basically a buescher stencil, one should be able to make an excellent player out of them with a good rebuild. Since they don't have any engraving you could relacquer or replate to your liking and stencil your own logo or monogram on the bell. How cool would that be? A custom "Buescher" with a personalized logo.
 

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Buescher also marketed the metallic **** painted horns under their own name. And they produced the blue decal horns that have no engraving or stamp... there's plentyn of customizing options open to the buescher fanatic.
 

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Now that you mention it. the school alto we had in middle school was a buescher. the paint was supposed to be impervious to the tortures inflicted upon it by middle school students, but somehow we managed to chip an peel the paint off much of it. As I recall it was about as thick as a coat of good latex semigloss.
 

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that's a pre Bundy , Bundy. If that makes any sense. Pre buy out stencil I think.
 

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Hello....
Nice to see that the project is coming along. I have the alto version of one those, and if I ever figure out how to 'parkerize' it, the race may be on. Looks like you've got an adventure in progress...Good Luck !
'dbd'
 

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Serial is 5xxxx marked 20A (Buescher mark?) below serial no. Good solid brass, although it was stained/lacquer 30% etc it has cleaned up well with much elbow grease. My Aristo 5xx xxx series is post buyouy but a twin, just not as nice metal and engraving. No finish planned just brass and patina, maybe a light polish. Plenty to do, like padding yet! Pad suggestions?
 
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