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Discussion Starter #1
I am a proud player of a series IIIc Zephyr alto (298xxx) that a friend insists upon
overhauling for me. He thinks I should repad w/ Conn flat resos on Precision pads.

While the core is solid, I find it doesn't play as dark as some S20's and other Zephyrs,
yet sings w/ power, if a bit mid-rangy to my ears (grew up on a Martin Magna).

Was thinking about white Roos to match the recommended sticky octave body vent solution,
although I hear they significantly darken (or muffle?) the tone,
which attracts my interest re tone though not re power.

So my thought was to include custom oversized resos (perhaps brass) to compensate,
yet worry that they may again favor the higher partials?
I want power from them, not higher EQ.

Also, uncertain whether flat or domed affect intonation in any significant way?

Finally, all the tone holes have been filed to some degree,
so wondering whether it's advisable to return to the
originally thin pads or stick w/ today's thick standard.

This horn already sang w/ power using standard pads and plastic domes,
but the last tech apparently didn't know how to float thick pads in shallow cups,
so leaks were rampant.

Your thoughts on this topic are greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No resonators?
How would you describe the resulting timbre?
Where can I get a set of Pisoni Pros?
 

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I am a proud player of a series IIIc Zephyr alto (298xxx) that a friend insists upon overhauling for me. He thinks I should repad w/ Conn flat resos on Precision pads.
Why Conn resos?

Finally, all the tone holes have been filed to some degree, so wondering whether it's advisable to return to the originally thin pads or stick w/ today's thick standard.
Filed even or filed until noticably shorter than original? If still at original height, then original thickness pads will give optimum action and key angle. If you like this horn's voice, it's worth rebuilding correctly.

This horn already sang w/ power using standard pads and plastic domes, but the last tech apparently didn't know how to float thick pads in shallow cups, so leaks were rampant.
I'm concerned that your friend may be equally inexperienced if you are asking these questions now.

Contact SotW member abadcliche (aka Matt Stohrer) regarding this. There have been many threads regarding repads on Bueschers and Matt is one of the more informed techs that makes a living restoring vintage saxophones.
 

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Yes you can order pads in 4mm or 4.3mm, so no problem there. prestini also do thin pads at 3.8mm if wanted, they also make very nice pro pads nowadays and they are a US company so it would be pretty easy for you to access them.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why Conn resos?
Buddy says those are what they came off the line w/.

Contact SotW member abadcliche (aka Matt Stohrer) regarding this. There have been many threads regarding repads on Bueschers and Matt is one of the more informed techs that makes a living restoring vintage saxophones.
Thanks, I'll try that. On Kings too? (or was that a typo =?)
 

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Thanks for the reference Dr. G! I do indeed do a lot of Kings as well- most every vintage horn as that is all I do- vintage and professional saxophones.

I would put a high-quality, thin and firm pad on that horn- .160" or lower (some pads are .155 or even .150). And either a seamless domed metal resonator or my personal choice a flat seamless metal resonator. I get my resonators from Kraus Music.

I use Precision pads from MusicMedic most often. Pisoni Pro is a very good pad as well. I personally do not use kangaroo skin pads, except occasionally on octave pads.

The major factor here is going to be the skill of the repairman, but this is probably not news to you.
 

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Matt has a number of informative and entertaining saxophone tech videos on Facebook (link in his sig line) including a few on sax pads. Unlike many who put similar themed videos up on FB, Matt's are all about educating, and not self promotion. Definitely give them a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I recently did one with pisoni pro pads and it came out just just perfect.I recommend these pads.
Regular Pros or Pro J?

Does the waterproof leather have a coating? That stuff leads to many sticking pads in the humid coastal and temperate forest regions I frequent along upper Pacific coast in USA.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Many thanks for your PM reply.
Your remark, "Usually, doming makes the horn brighter. If you want power without making the horn too bright, use flat resonators with a good amount of coverage." confirms my main suspicion.
How much coverage do you think and how do you measure it?

I have been toying w/ the math on several schemes, including 80% coverage, but that leaves less than a mm clearance w/ the Bis key tone hole edge.
With the rumors that Roos absorb more partials, I was also thinking of an inverse coverage scheme, leaving a smaller % area covered on larger pads vs. smaller to help compensate by strengthening core pitches above; but now I'm thinking I should reverse that scheme to guarantee a darker bark.

A simpler reverse scheme (i.e., larger % coverage per larger tone holes) may be just to leave 3-4mm of clearance w/in each tone hole, but I haven't compensated for lower pitches generated from smaller venting tone holes. Are there any "problem" pitches/tone holes to custom adjust for?
 
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