Don't worry, it wasn't you...
It's a method that works well in certain circumstances - the most critical being that there should be as little stress as possible on the guard foot.
When a guard foot pops off it's usually because of a knock to the guard, which deforms the guard. This must be corrected first.
They also pop off because a guard has been fitted under strain - it didn't line up neatly with the feet and was squashed down before fitting. This too must be corrected.
If it's just because the joint has failed and the guard sits more or less square then this method can work quite well, and last for quite some time.
The trick to using the glue is 'less is more' - a drop of about 3mm in diameter is plenty enough. For a bit of insurance you can surround the mounting point with masking tape.
Pop a drop of glue on the body, place the foot down on it and hold in place for a minute or so. Make sure the body is held level to avoid any glue from running away from the joint.
It's a quick-fix method that won't damage the lacquer unless you use too much glue - and can last quite a long time. There's an East German bari out there somewhere with a low C guard that's been hanging on with superglue for around 5 years now (and a couple of pillars)
As for removing any superglue prior to soldering, a short-bladed sharp scalpel deals with it in no time at all.
It's by no means a replacement for having the joint soldered properly, but as you'll probably lose a bit of lacquer during the soldering process you don't have much to lose by giving the glue a go - and you'll do a lot less damage than trying to solder it yourself if you don't have the right equipment and the right skills.
Regards,
It's a method that works well in certain circumstances - the most critical being that there should be as little stress as possible on the guard foot.
When a guard foot pops off it's usually because of a knock to the guard, which deforms the guard. This must be corrected first.
They also pop off because a guard has been fitted under strain - it didn't line up neatly with the feet and was squashed down before fitting. This too must be corrected.
If it's just because the joint has failed and the guard sits more or less square then this method can work quite well, and last for quite some time.
The trick to using the glue is 'less is more' - a drop of about 3mm in diameter is plenty enough. For a bit of insurance you can surround the mounting point with masking tape.
Pop a drop of glue on the body, place the foot down on it and hold in place for a minute or so. Make sure the body is held level to avoid any glue from running away from the joint.
It's a quick-fix method that won't damage the lacquer unless you use too much glue - and can last quite a long time. There's an East German bari out there somewhere with a low C guard that's been hanging on with superglue for around 5 years now (and a couple of pillars)
As for removing any superglue prior to soldering, a short-bladed sharp scalpel deals with it in no time at all.
It's by no means a replacement for having the joint soldered properly, but as you'll probably lose a bit of lacquer during the soldering process you don't have much to lose by giving the glue a go - and you'll do a lot less damage than trying to solder it yourself if you don't have the right equipment and the right skills.
Regards,
