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Almost new yts custom z, I'm finding my high G turns into a high D. Almost always, and I'm not a novice! Then I noticed this rod sticking up from the stack. I doubt Yamaha made it this way. Any thoughts? I'd bring it in, but for Covid-19.
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Keilwerth saxes (S/A/T), Selmer clarinets (S/B), Altus Azumi flute
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I agree with Reedscraper, except that you needn't worry about binding with rods (there's nothing to 'bind' on). Binding can be a problem with pivot screws, but not with rods on a horn that works correctly.
 

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Do you have a set of instrument screwdrivers? Can you get on that rod without taking keys off? Spring tension will be a hindrance in trying to get the rod lined up with the end post so you can get it started - normally you would de-spring the assembly first - a 'spring hook' is a big help with this.
Its pretty rare to see one with the rod that far out. I'd say someone monkeyed around with it before you got it. You should check every screw and rod on the sax.
 

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Actually, I have had one or two horns where a rod would gradually unscrew itself like that. (Typically, just one rod out of all of them.) I have no idea why it is sometimes that way. About all you can do is to screw it back in good and tight.

As to spring hooks, you can make a pretty good one out of a paper clip by using a small pair of needle nose pliers to make a tiny hook on the end of the straightened out paper clip. About half the time I can just push the spring out of its hook from the other direction with a small screwdriver, and about half the time I have to reach in there with my homemade spring hook and pull it off its hook.

Once you get that rod screwed back in, you'll probably have no more problems with your small leak.
 

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Actually, I have had one or two horns where a rod would gradually unscrew itself like that. (Typically, just one rod out of all of them.) I have no idea why it is sometimes that way. About all you can do is to screw it back in good and tight.

As to spring hooks, you can make a pretty good one out of a paper clip by using a small pair of needle nose pliers to make a tiny hook on the end of the straightened out paper clip. About half the time I can just push the spring out of its hook from the other direction with a small screwdriver, and about half the time I have to reach in there with my homemade spring hook and pull it off its hook.

Once you get that rod screwed back in, you'll probably have no more problems with your small leak.
 

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Before screwing that rod back down put a drop or 2 of a good quality oil in there. It's probably dry and binding enough to gradually back it out.
 

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Bandmommy is right, a hinge rod that backs out by itself is telling you there is friction somewhere along the keys it acts as a "hinge" for. The way a tech would diagnose the problem is to remove all of the keys and clean the hinge tubes using a cotton pipe cleaner. I like to add a few drops of brass valve oil to the end of the pipe cleaner. Then I wipe the rod clean with a paper towel or soft cloth. Next without any oil, I insert the rod in and out of each key to check for any binding or friction. If there is friction or binding, the hinge tube of the key needs to be straightened or the hinge rod, or both.

The best case scenario is that the mechanism is just dry. It is still a good practice to remove the keys and clean everything before adding new key oil if you are comfortable doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone. For the moment I’ve just screwed down the rod. If it happens again I’ll attempt something more drastic. Maybe skip all tunes that need a C, for instance. :evil:
Thanks!
 
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