[stormott77]

http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2011/live-ultra-gb

It's nice and massive. So far some nice barrels and a dislocated shoulder for Laurie Towner.

 

[saxphil]

You do that stuff and play sax too, Shane?

 

[stormott77]

I have never surfed Pipeline but I have surfed Sunset Beach on a big day. It's right down the road from Pipe. I got worked and I got some epic rides too. I grew up surfing the big cold waves of northern California. I surfed my first day in 2 1/2 months yesterday. I had shoulder surgery and I didn't play sax or surf for a while. The sax was easier to come back to and I'm starting to feel like I'm building momentum again. I'm still at least a month away from being back to where I was on my horn but my set up is better than it was pre surgery because of lowered key heights and a new lig.

 

[gary]

Cool. Can you believe that when I was a kid (I'm from Ohau) almost no one was riding Pipeline? And NO ONE was riding the third reef waves. And look at it now. Wow!

If you've surfed the big waves you've got brass ones. I much preferred body surfing. I just liked being in the waves instead of being on them. The biggest wave I board surfed on was an eight footer and I have to admit it was by mistake, LOL. It just kept getting bigger and I had no place to go.

 

[stormott77]

Cool. Can you believe that when I was a kid (I'm from Ohau) almost no one was riding Pipeline? And NO ONE was riding the third reef waves. And look at it now. Wow!

If you've surfed the big waves you've got brass ones. I much preferred body surfing. I just liked being in the waves instead of being on them. The biggest wave I board surfed on was an eight footer and I have to admit it was by mistake, LOL. It just kept getting bigger and I had no place to go.

8 feet is a solid good size wave. The biggest I have surfed is about 20 feet on the face. I used to surf that size a lot in the winter but it just doesn't happen to much in Southern California. It is nice and playful fun size most of the time in Socal. Norcal gets the big juicy waves all winter long.

 

[gary]

8 feet is a solid good size wave. The biggest I have surfed is about 20 feet on the face. I used to surf that size a lot in the winter but it just doesn't happen to much in Southern California. It is nice and playful fun size most of the time in Socal. Norcal gets the big juicy waves all winter long.

Being a warm-weather water baby, it would just seem unnatural surfing with a wet suit on.

 

[stormott77]

Being a warm-weather water baby, it would just seem unnatural surfing with a wet suit on.

Being pounded by a 10 foot wave has an extra level of pain when the water is under 50 degrees. The water is heavier, denser and so cold that if your hood gets ripped off by the turbulence you get an instant brain freeze that just sucks all the life out of you. Then you have to make your way up to the surface and get some air, if you can, before the next couple of waves in the set plow over you and push you under all over again.

Growing up surfing in Northern California gave me the confidence to go out and surf pretty much anywhere and know that I could handle myself. Now, if only that was the case with me and jazz tunes.

 

[gary]

LOL. You can take a pounding if you get up on stage at the wrong jam sesson, too. :shock:

 

[stormott77]

The contest will most likely run all day tomorrow, today depending on how you look at it. It will be a little smaller but still macking.

 

[jazzbluescat]

Awesome! dude.