[Keith Ridenhour]

I picked up a Ponzol M1 from a friend and I knew from the beginning that it has the sound I like. My prob is that a reed plays good for 15 minutes, then gets harder and harder response until it will warp completely. So bad for me if I play 20 minutes , set the horn down and then blow and get nothing. I have two gigs this weekend and broke my other piece so I'm using my plasticover reeds that won't warp on a table to get through. I'd like to fix this without losing that tone that I like. I have had pieces refaced by many, many guys and they do the job to get it to play but inevitabaly the tone usually gets much brighter. So, the piece plays but way too bright. I kniw that theres a guy in the east bay who took over Jay Clarks business. Anybody have his email or shop number? If I can be there with the guy, blow and show him the tone that I like maybe he can fix it without changing it too much> Thanks K

 

[odsum25]

Keith, have you used John Reilly before? I've tried a Meyer alto and STM tenor that he worked on that I really dug.

I think the guy who took over for Jay Clark is Eric Drake. Never dealt with him before, but a few people on here have.

 

[Keith Ridenhour]

I tryed Saxology and 4 winds music which is what Jay called his business. I'll google Eric drake and see. I need a local guy because I don't have a back up piece yet. K

 

[Pete Thomas]

I have found this to happen on some mouthpieces. Not to do so much with the tip opening but the length of lay. I find short lays (ie more of a curve) does this. I guess that's quite obvious when you think about it, but it could also be the actual shape of the curve so you need someone who really understands the different types and lengths of curves. I'd recommend Ed Pillinger for this sort of work.

 

[gary]

Keith, are you using fresh reeds? I have an M1 and it does not warp reeds but if I switch reeds back and forth between mouthpieces, a reed on my M1 can clam up real fast; can't get a sound out of it. That does not happen with out-of-the-box reeds.

 

[MojoBari]

Quick fix: try a Fibracell on it.

Ponzol metals usually have a tip rail with an exaggerated arch to it. It is higher in the center than the corners. All mouthpieces should be this way, but not as much. I have experianced this with Ponzols since when refacing the tip, the corners clean up for several strokes before the center does. Fixing this make the piece more free-blowing. But you might think the piece is brighter since it is louder. I would not think the curved tip rail would make your reeds warp like you are experiancing, but I would not rule it out either.

I have a M1 that I reworked for my own use if you want to try it. I have another piece I like as well so would not miss it. You could test whether my version helps or not. Its a Ponzol M1 105 but is a .107" tip.

 

[-TH]

Mojo:

This is a really interesting topic. I've experienced this same exact problem a few times with different mouthpieces (including one Ponzol). I've understood that this thing will happen if the table is not perfectly flat but this is due to the un-even tip rail??

-TH

 

[Keith Ridenhour]

Out all my reeds only my Plasticovers work and I only had three of them at the gig today. But on the first break I got tired of no overdrive on the horn so I used sandpaper on the stiffer of my Plasticover 2.5s and really got a reed that works on it. Played the gig well and since I wasn't so gun shy about it playing I had my alt and slurpy stuff back. So, for now I'll work on the two boxes of Rico Plasticover that I ordered from Ww and BWs. Mojo, I like the 115 tip on this M1 and it feels closed to me so I really wouldn't want to go down a notch on tip. thanks though for the offer. Its really a jecklll and hyde piece. I had it all today , subtone, dark and fat when I wanted it, good alt up to C4, lots of pop for the funk stuff. I will take this to some guy locally and see if the table can be fixed but like I said, when it works the tone really grabs me. Gary as far as reeds go I went through 15 or so different varities and they all sound good for 10 minutes and then slowly get unresponsive and bright untll you blow and get nothing. Tip reed placement is really important with this piece more than others I've owned. Just a little too far or not enough and the reed is dead in the water. Thanks, guys. Today was a gem. Good thing I had some sandpaper in my gig bag and the sense to try this> K

 

[MojoBari]

Mojo:
This is a really interesting topic. I've experienced this same exact problem a few times with different mouthpieces (including one Ponzol). I've understood that this thing will happen if the table is not perfectly flat but this is due to the un-even tip rail??
-TH

I can not say for sure. I was just tossing out my observation on Ponzols. The Fibracell reeds I use do not warp on any mouthpiece.

 

[Lenny]

Keith try:

Sax Craft (http://www.saxcraft.com/)
Owner: M. Eric Drake
Address: 1956 University Ave Berkeley CA 94704
Phone: 510-843-2436
Email ([email protected])
Specialties: Saxophone and clarinet repairs and engraving.

I don't know if Eric does mouthpiece work though

 

[BigDaddyJ]

Yo K,

I've played mouthpieces theat Eric has worked on. His work is top notch. Eric is just not that well known.......YET!!! He had the BEST HR Link I've ever tried, as well as some custom HR pieces that he had refaced. Just awesome pieces. I would have any problems having Eric work on my pieces.

later

Joel