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I have a tenor conn 10 m and actually I am not quite experience in blowing a vintage sax. Someone suggested I should get a larger chamber mouthpiece, can anyone suggest a good large chamber mp please. I like the one with warm, jazzy sound a bit bright is ok. I have beechler diamond inlay s6s.

I have trouble in blowing lower register as I am used to blow my yamaha custom (easier to blow) I have trouble with E, D and C (low) and sometime F. Only when I open my throat open and taking a deep breath and blow, they sound OK otherwise these notes will gurgle or even sound like pffft.

thanks
 

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possibly you need someone to take a good look at your sax, these are known to be very good in the netherregions.....it has probably some leaks.
The mouthpiece thing is a matter of personal choice and you will find that if you use the search function lots of questions have been discussed already such as http://www.saxontheweb.net/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2984
 

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mjs10 said:
I have trouble in blowing lower register as I am used to blow my yamaha custom (easier to blow) I have trouble with E, D and C (low) and sometime F. Only when I open my throat open and taking a deep breath and blow, they sound OK otherwise these notes will gurgle or even sound like pffft.
Yup, the 10M's dirty little secret. If you don't get a mouthpiece that pushes in far enough, those notes are going to be harder to support. Folks either dump 'em or learn to fill that big bow with air; though of course there are those who have not found the problem at all. But as for mouthpieces, you could search this site for numerous threads in regard to 10M's and mouthpieces.
 

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Hi mjs10 try Otto Link metal Super Tone Master NY or Otto Link hard rubber Tone Edge mouthpiece. I play a tip opening 6* on my Conn 10m and both mouthpiece play in tune. I use Rico Royal 3 reeds on the metal Tone Master and Hemke reeds on the hard rubber Tone Edge.

It seems that Conn 10M likes large chamber mouthpieces. Also you will have to put a little more air through horn. Both mouthpiece sit about half way on the neck cork.
 

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You can play a vintage sax the way that you do a normal sax. I think contemporary sounds better on my conns than it does on a Mark VI. They have a more Distinguishable sound, whereas selmers and others (not including keilwerth or buescher) are really just based on the mouthpiece, reed etc. If you want to sound great, might I highly reccommend an RPC. Yes the roll over baffle model is $285, but Ron will make the mouthpiece sound how you want it to sound. I do not see Sugal, or Barone, etc. doing anything like that for only for $285, compared to prices in excess of $350. That is with the Roll over baffle. There is a lower baffle for $225, but really, making a mouthpiece sound how you want it to for only $285, and guaranteeing it to you that you will like it, or he will make you a new one, or fully refund your expenses is pretty awesome. That is the S**T! You could buy a Sugal MP for example, and spend $400, and not like it, and be stuck with it and not get your money back. The RPC sounds GREAT! on Conns. I nearly swear to you that you will not be dissapointed!
 

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Large chamber pieces only!

For a more mellow piece...try the Broadus mouthpieces
For an all around great classic, vintage sound...go with a vintage Otto Link.
Slant Sigs, Reso Chamber, and Early Babbitt hard rubbers work great---as do the vintage metal STM's.
For more modern pieces ...try the RPC's and the Saxscapes.
 

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A fairly good budget option is actual the Geo M. Bundy mouthpieces. You'll get a very nice mellow tone, and they do play in tune on my 10M. I also have a Brilhart LevelAir (not metal, rubber, if I recall) which is an absolute blast to play on it (has a very high baffle), but is really too loud for anything but Rock n' Roll gigs.

My 10M was very picky about mouthpieces and I had to try 20 or so to get a few that I liked and that would play in tune. Large-Chamber tends to work best, but NOT ALWAYS. There's no substitute for trying first. Where are you located? We might be able to point you somewhere where you can try a few.
 

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My late 60s 10Ms (I have 2) prefer smaller chambered mouthpieces. With large chambers, the palm keys are sharp.
 

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I know a fantastic player who uses Selmer mouthpieces on his 10m.

He alternates between a long-shank-soloist-on-the-table F, and a newer S80 G. He mostly plays the G.

He gets a huge, rich, thick sound and has excellent intonation. Of course, his sound and intonation were excellent back in the 90's when he played a link with a MKVI, so....maybe he is just real good.

Soloists are hard to come by, but you could order a few S80 G's and send them back if you don't like them.
 

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I've found that all mouthpieces work fine on a Naked Lady 10M, unlike the earlier big bores which were not so good with modern mouthpieces.
 

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abadcliche turned me on to the Steve Broadus S3 HR pieces for the Conn 10M...the horn plays perfectly in tune with this piece and has a thick but cutting sound. Later I learned that Les Arbuckle also plays (or played) a Broadus on his (Planet) Conn.

The downside is that the Broadus beak is very thick and has a different profile than Otto Link HR pieces and it took me a while to get used to it.
 

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Pete Thomas said:
I've found that all mouthpieces work fine on a Naked Lady 10M, unlike the earlier big bores which were not so good with modern mouthpieces.
This is very true indeed! Conn saxophones seem to get on well with just about any mouthpiece.

However, if you want to be a "vintage geek", consider the following.

US made horn paired with a similar vintage US made piece. NY Otto Link Tonemaster or 4****. Rubber or metal NY Meyer Bros. Hollywood Dukoff. Guy Hawkins. Brilhart (plastic or rubber, no level-air please)

Exceptions will be made for UK built Berg Larsen of the "vintage duckbill variety". (Note: If you must play a metal Berg, go find a King Super 20) Lawtons are okay as well. And the French built A. Lelandais pieces (various types are cool with a 10m).

I'm just being stupid. Play whatever you like. (no matter how ridiculous it may look)

Conn 10m/30m set-ups:

Dexter: Hollywood Dukoff
Sal Nistico: Fla Link STM
Walter Blanding: Mike Manning mpc
Dan Block: WW&Co/NY Link 4****
Ike Quebec: Metal NY Meyer w/"fluted" sides (similar to Link 4****)
Prez: Brilhart "streamline"/ Link 4****
Paul Quinichette" Brilhart "tonalin"
Harold Land: metal Berg
Gene Ammons: c.1940s Brilhart "tonalin"

Please add to this list if you can.
 

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Well, I feel out of place giving my 10M/mpc set ups following that list :yikes!: but...

I started with a stock Meyer 6M, followed by a Theo Wanne Link NY ending with a JJ ESP. I made a few momentary side trips with a Charlie A BBQ, JJ HR and the Kessler HR. All of the above worked well with my Lady Face, they just had different characteristics.
 

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rs1sensen said:
A fairly good budget option is actual the Geo M. Bundy mouthpieces.
I have one, it is not open at all. I like it with a fuor and a half reed, but that is it. I might be planning on getting it refaced.
 

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ChuBerry47 said:
I have one, it is not open at all. I like it with a fuor and a half reed, but that is it. I might be planning on getting it refaced.

Hmmm, I've found the exact opposite with mine. Mine works well with the lightest of reeds, although I usually use a Vandoren Classic #2 or a #3 java on mine. Very free-blowing, although it's large chamber requires a fair amount of air to get a good sound. When I first found mine, another player commented that these are "some of the best kept secrets" of the 10M mouthpiece selection. I bet with a refacing, as you mentioned, you'd be very happy with it.

I'm not sure what the tip facing on mine is, as I bought the mouthpiece used and there's no markings.
 

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Finally settled in on my 10M with a 7 tonemaster (refaced) and lavoz mediums, and some serious long tone hours...but I have a Lamberson J6 and a Brian Powell link on the way so who knows...it's all about the tone...the rest is just decoration!
 

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I've got a 30M, would these same suggestions apply? I don't know if I need it, but I think I want a better mouthpiece.
Cheryl
 
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