[Dr G]

Please help!

https://forum.saxontheweb.net/showt...ge10&highlight=Otto+link+identification+chart

https://theowanne.com/knowledge/mouthpiece-museum/otto-link-mouthpieces/

Bottom line, personal perspective: If you don't know how to identify vintage mouthpieces, don't pay vintage prices. If it doesn't play well, "vintage" doesn't matter - you'll either have something to admire and brag about, or you need to get it refaced and it is no longer original.

 

[Sofiane]

Does it play well for you?

I didn't try it yet, but as soon as I do I'll let you know.

 

[turf3]

Honestly, for myself I have zero interest in whether a mouthpiece is "Vintage expensive" or "brand new" - it all depends on how it plays.

I also very seriously question whether a $1000 super-rare-vintage mouthpiece, made 80 years ago as a mass production piece using (inherently inconsistent) hand work and 1940 quality control methods, is likely to play any better, or even as well, as a $500 brand new boutique piece made with modern day attention to detail and modern methods. That super-rare super-expensive old mouthpiece was probably retailed for the equivalent price of today's fairly nice production pieces - say $150.

 

[Dr G]

Honestly, for myself I have zero interest in whether a mouthpiece is "Vintage expensive" or "brand new" - it all depends on how it plays.

I also very seriously question whether a $1000 super-rare-vintage mouthpiece, made 80 years ago as a mass production piece using (inherently inconsistent) hand work and 1940 quality control methods, is likely to play any better, or even as well, as a $500 brand new boutique piece made with modern day attention to detail and modern methods. That super-rare super-expensive old mouthpiece was probably retailed for the equivalent price of today's fairly nice production pieces - say $150.

If you want to calculate one data point, I bought my Otto Link STM 7* in '73 for $33 at Ponti's.

 

[turf3]

That looks like about $192 in now money. Brand new Otto Link metals for tenor look to run around $200-300 depending on the model. I think paying $1000 in today's money for something made 80 years ago to about the same standards as something you can buy today for $300 is not a good bet. If I were going to spend $1000 in today's money on a sax mouthpiece I'd buy one of the high end boutique pieces and have a bunch of money left over for reeds and lessons.

 

[Sofiane]

Hi thanks for your opinion and your advices guys but I still need to identify it
Someone told me it could Be a Florida straight signature.

 

[Dr G]

Hi thanks for your opinion and your advices guys but I still need to identify it
Someone told me it could Be a Florida straight signature.

Did you look at the links I provided for you?

 

[Sofiane]

Hi thanks for your opinion and your advices guys but I still need to identify it
Someone told me it could Be a Florida straight signature.

Did you look at the links I provided for you?

Yes of course
And it helped me thinking that it mights be a Florida straight signature because of the beak

 

[Sofiane]

The mouthpiece sounds and plays great!
I paid 50€ for it.

 

[Sofiane]

This mouthpiece is amazing, now I understand why they sell for big bucks.
This mouthpiece has verticals machining Mark but also horizontal denim patterns hard to catch with the camera though.

 

[turf3]

It's an old Otto Link, with the original machine-cut facing.

If the "otto link" is straight across and not at an angle, then it's not one of the highly sought after "slant sig" Links. I don't know what current collector pricing is on something like this, but I have a #10 that looks real similar and I estimate its value at about $200, so I suspect yours being a more common facing is a bit less. For 50 Euro, and you say it plays great, that's a great deal. I would suggest using it, not trying to flip it for a profit.

 

[Sofiane]

Thanks for your reply, yes the signature is straight,but because of the steep beak and the machine marks I think it is a blank from the florida era which was finished in the Babbitt factory, so we called this a Florida straight signature, florida blank or at least "true" early Babbitt !
I will soon when the Corona crisis will will be over get the tip opening measure. It is a 7.but feels like an 8.
I really enjoy this piece every day!! 😃

 

[Sofiane]

Could you post pictures of your?
If it looks like mine you should reconsider the value of it because these pieces sell for 600€ or 700€ here in Europe .

 

[Sigmund451]

Looks like an Early Babbitt to me. Play the facing off that thing. Even if it was a good playing modern link you got a good price. However, I suspect you got a steal.

 

[Sofiane]

"Play the facing off that thing."
What does that mean?
There's a small dent on the tip but I don't think it affects its playability.
This mouthpiece is a perfect match for my super 20, which is a bright horn (I repadded it with hand made metal resonators).
Sounds really warm and project well if pushed, but the low end isn't so easy, maybe I should try with softer reeds like 3. I usually play vandoren V16 4.
Or check the facing length. Or my technician would drown a bit in the mouthpiece after the U shape.
I don't know what to do yet.

 

[turf3]

I'd try softer reeds. Personally I play a #6 or 6* (Can't remember right now and I'm too lazy to go open up the case) Link with about #2 1/2 Vandorens. I would not fool with the original unmolested facing.

 

[Sigmund451]

Just a figure of speach...play the heck out of it and enjoy.

 

[Sofiane]

Ok got it I'll just play it as it is, there's enough refaced mouthpiece on the market actually.
I like playing medium hard reeds on tenor because there's this resistance and they product a full warm sound.
You can blow really loud and intonation is kinda locked in.

 

[Sofiane]

Turf 3 I'm lookin forward for the pictures of your mouthpiece

 

[Sofiane]

On the first picture the first mouthpiece is a CE wind mold, the second one too but was made for Tenor Madness as a prototype, the last is the Link.
On the third picture from left to right it's the prototype, the link and the CE wind mold.