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Hi all, okay so the other day i was getting ready to play my sax, i screwed the neck screw in but then it snapped and half of it was stuck in. I hear it happens often. Luckily ive had someone experienced remove the broken screw, however now i need to buy a new one.:|

Apperently all neck screws are the same size but ive seen that some screws have a thicker tread and such. so will any screw work? i own a YAS-275. Any info would be valued. Thanks in advance.
Tom.
 

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Not all neck screws are the same size and thread. Check if the place where you bought the instrument from has any. Check any Yamaha dealer near by if they have any in stock. Check if any repairer has any in stock. If not, they can most likely order one for you. Maybe the person who removed it can get a new one for you.
 

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Hi all, okay so the other day i was getting ready to play my sax, i screwed the neck screw in but then it snapped and half of it was stuck in. I hear it happens often.

Apparently all neck screws are the same size but ive seen that some screws have a thicker tread and such. so will any screw work?
Hmmm, I've only been playing 40+ years and never snapped one. If you can turn one hard enough to break it, you could probably make any one of 'em fit. :twisted:

On the other hand, order one for a Yamaha. Use a lil' lube (grease) and less pressure. If you have to crank it down that hard to get the neck to stop moving in the tenon socket, the problem is not the screw - it's the tenon. You need to get the neck tenon expanded to fit the receiver (and your horn will probably play better as a result).
 
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As Dr G says, the screw is only supposed to be tightened up enough to stop a well-fitting crook from swivelling - it shouldn't be thought of as an aid to sealing the joint. Once the crook is in place and the loose screw is turned so that it just contacts the lug, it should require barely half a turn or so more to lock the joint. If you turn it any further (or have to) then you'll run into problems soon enough.

Once you've got your new screw, and had the tenon sleeve expanded if necessary, make sure that when you put the horn away you always leave the screw loose. If it's tightened up during storing it will eventually stretch the the socket.

Regards,
 

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I had this exact same thing happen with my YAS-275. I found a Yamaha parts list online and looked up its particulars.

According to the list the part you need is #N1541691 which is labelled as NECK SCREW(BS) G LAC. A.T.B62. 'G LAC' would refer to gold lacquer

I got one from Ebay for about $8. At the moment on ebay I can't see the exact one (or at least none are thoroughly listed with the above parts details) but here's exactly what you need but it sold awhile ago but it gives you an idea of what to look out for.

Here's most likely the same part but in the photo it's not in the Yamaha packet. It's from the same seller I bought from (he was good and in your neck of the woods) and this one looks appropriate for a 275 and the part I got was genuine in a Yamaha packet. Maybe ask him what the part number is?

Good luck and be careful when you tighten that screw again ;)

P.S. I'm so glad I now have a SML with the best designed neck receiver ever!:mrgreen:
 

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The neck screw will break if the neck is not a good fit to start. The fit should be allmost tight and then just a slight turn of the screw will tighten it. If you don't have the neck fitted you will break every screw you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey guys thanks alot again for the advice. I ended up just buying one off of ebay (they're cheap enough). and its a yamaha genuine part so that should come in soon. Haha i'll be sure to tighten it less in the future.
Cheers, Tom
 

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Hey Tom - I repair Yamahas all the time. Those neck screws break so often, I always keep like 12 handy......which is saying something cuz I'm a zero to bare minimum inventory kind of guy. When students bring their horns by for a regular maintenance lately, I've been just replacing them with a new one because I don't want to get the all too frantic "night before audition....please help my neck screw broke" call. I agree with the "tighten less" advice.
 

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As has been mentioned previously, if you're having to tighten up the socket screw a fair bit, then it's most likely you will need to have your crook tenon fitted properly so you only need to tighten it by a quarter turn to lock it in place.

Years ago I bought a used YTS-62 where the previous owner hadn't cleaned the crook tenon or socket (or the instrument for that matter) so it had loosened up over time and the socket screw had been over torqued to compensate and it broke, so straightening out the ligs on the socket, refitting the tenon and replacing the screw sorted that problem out.

It's a fairly minor repair, but a pretty significant one to have your crook tenon fitted properly. Do remember the socket screw only locks the crook in place and doesn't create the seal as that should already be a good one between the socket and tenon while the socket screw is still loose.
 

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2 things. You can have a Tech get the same threaded screw from Allied supply for much cheaper A1691 part number I also have them in nickel plate (Cost More) so they are stronger for students.
The Yamaha screw sucks!
When you do get a new screw you or your Tech should saw a slot on the end so when it does break you can go in the other end with a screw driver and just spin out the broken part.

Carl Thacker
carlsproband.com
 

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You can have a Tech get the same threaded screw from Allied supply for much cheaper A1691 part number I also have them in nickel plate (Cost More) so they are stronger for students.
What is it about nickel plating that makes the screw any stronger?
 

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I have replaced many neck screws over the years on Yamaha saxes. I find the tenon fit from the factory to be quite nice. My take on it is that the bigger head on the screw gives students something to crank on. That, and not enough instruction on assembly. All of the repairs I've made have been on middle school student owned instruments.

My $.02
 

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nickel is stronger that brass. Most student saxophones have nickel plated keys over brass for this reason.
A coat of plating won't add any significant strength to the base metal. The reason that nickel plate is popular on student horns is that it's cheap and durable.

Regards,
 

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I was told that Yamaha neck screws were designed to snap to try and prevent the rest of the neck getting damaged. Those that overtighten the neck screw often distort the socket joint and/ or the bits the screw fits in. It can be a real job trying to straighten those pieces.

The number one instrument for broken neck screws is the Yamaha 25 and 275 by a long, long way. (And funnily enough they cost more than other makes - Hmmm!!! )
 
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