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If the screw is intact but just spins, look at it and see if the threads on the screw are stripped. Otherwise the threads inside the clamp collar are stripped. Maybe both are stripped. This would require tapping the collar with a slightly larger thread diameter and using a new screw to match. If the screw is broken off in the collar, you access the other end of the screw and just turn it out - requires some finagling like cutting a screwdriver slot in the end of the screw if it protrudes, or using a small drill bit which will usually grab enough to turn the stub out. This is usually very easy on a baritone because there's no lyre holder clamp in the way.
In the interim, if the screw can come completely out of the clamp collar, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a machine screw that will either thread into the clamp collar and be tightened with a screwdriver (assuming you can match the threading of the collar which is not a given - you'll have to have the horn with you in the store:)), or if the threads in the collar are stripped, a smaller machine screw will slip in and be secured with a nut on the other side, probably with a small washer on each side to avoid damage to the collar. You'll need a small wrench and a screwdriver in this case. If you do this, just be careful to not overtighten - you could damage the clamp collar.
So the bottom line is you could be lucky and just need a new clamp screw but either way the horn will be okay. Maybe you should also get that neck sized up to fit the collar tighter so you don't have to tighten the screw as much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the screw is intact but just spins, look at it and see if the threads on the screw are stripped. Otherwise the threads inside the clamp collar are stripped. Maybe both are stripped. This would require tapping the collar with a slightly larger thread diameter and using a new screw to match. If the screw is broken off in the collar, you access the other end of the screw and just turn it out - requires some finagling like cutting a screwdriver slot in the end of the screw if it protrudes, or using a small drill bit which will usually grab enough to turn the stub out. This is usually very easy on a baritone because there's no lyre holder clamp in the way.
In the interim, if the screw can come completely out of the clamp collar, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a machine screw that will either thread into the clamp collar and be tightened with a screwdriver (assuming you can match the threading of the collar which is not a given - you'll have to have the horn with you in the store:)), or if the threads in the collar are stripped, a smaller machine screw will slip in and be secured with a nut on the other side, probably with a small washer on each side to avoid damage to the collar. You'll need a small wrench and a screwdriver in this case. If you do this, just be careful to not overtighten - you could damage the clamp collar.
So the bottom line is you could be lucky and just need a new clamp screw but either way the horn will be okay. Maybe you should also get that neck sized up to fit the collar tighter so you don't have to tighten the screw as much.
Ok. Lots of info here. Excellent. I believe the threads inside the clamp collar are stripped. The screw comes out and looks fine. The clamp collar dos have to be resized for sure. It's tight but I was having to tighten it all the way. That's probably what caused the problem. I was having to over tighten. I'm assuming I need a bigger screw? This is not something I should do on my own correct? Looks like a smaller screw with a nut and 2 washers if I'm reading correctly? That sounds very doable. Home Depot is a mile away. Thanks.
 

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Alto sax, Tenor sax, Clarinet
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If you always had to crank it down hard every time, you might want to have a tech take a look at adjusting the initial fit of the tenon and receiver. At the same time, the tech could put slightly larger threads in the collar, and provide a screw to fit.
 

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I'd like to take I file to it and make that space on the clamp bigger.
Widening the slot in the receiver and over tightening the screw can distort the shape of the receiver and cause the neck to leak even more. The best solution is to take it to a tech and have the neck tenon expanded. You can also have the tech tap the threads to a slightly larger size to use a larger tightening screw, however I applaud your "MacGyver" temporary solution.
 

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Widening the slot in the receiver and over tightening the screw can distort the shape of the receiver and cause the neck to leak even more. The best solution is to take it to a tech and have the neck tenon expanded. You can also have the tech tap the threads to a slightly larger size to use a larger tightening screw, however I applaud your "MacGyver" temporary solution.
+1 . That's a great roadside fix ! Didn't cause any additional damage.
 

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+1 . That's a great roadside fix ! Didn't cause any additional damage.
Just be careful not to crank on that wingnut and further stretch the receiver.

The failure of the original screw is a sign of an ongoing problem. Don't ignore it.
 

· Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2014
Super Action 80 Tenor, Buescher 156 Tenor, Yamaha Vito YAS-21 , Kessler Soprano, Superba II Bari
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Just be careful not to crank on that wingnut and further stretch the receiver.

The failure of the original screw is a sign of an ongoing problem. Don't ignore it.
And it's a relatively simple fix for a tech with the right tooling.

Though I'll definitely keep this temporary fix in mind if the situation ever pops up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I successfully played the gig today and dropped the horn off to the repair guy after. He';s going to take care of it. He said something about resizing it. I’ll keep the wingnut and screw in my case from now on!
 

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Super Action 80 Tenor, Buescher 156 Tenor, Yamaha Vito YAS-21 , Kessler Soprano, Superba II Bari
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I successfully played the gig today and dropped the horn off to the repair guy after. He';s going to take care of it. He said something about resizing it. I'll keep the wingnut and screw in my case from now on!
They're probably going to expand the neck tenon. Uneven pressure, or even pressure put onto the neck when playing, can cause the tenon to deform. This causes a minor leak right at the tenon/receiver. It's actually pretty forgiving unless the tenon is really deformed. Most saxophonists only notice there's an issue when the neck screw isn't tightening the neck anymore. When you pick the sax up, ask your tech if they can explain the procedure. It's pretty interesting. A lot of "dead" sounding horns often have a leak here, so it's an important little fix that's often overlooked.
 

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Just be careful not to crank on that wingnut and further stretch the receiver.

The failure of the original screw is a sign of an ongoing problem. Don't ignore it.
So very true. Anything beyond a one or two night emergency fix is not smart. There is a reason neck clamp screws have a small tab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for all the info. I’m hoping the guy resizes the collar. I wouldn’t call him the best repair guy but he’s close by and inexpensive. My plan is to get a backup horn so when these things happen I have more time to get things fixed. Anyone have any tips for good repair people in the Boston area?
 

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If an excellent tech does an excellent neck fit, you may notice a dramatic improvement in how your horn plays. As for the screw, it serves only to prevent neck rotation and has no role in the air seal between tenon and receiver—that is established by matching diameter and taper if any of tenon and receiver. I’ve been told this by Ryan at Sax Pro Shop, Jack at BSS (YouTube vid) and my great local tech Scott at SFH, so I believe it. Makes sense—how could that thin collar with a slot in it at the top of the receiver seal? If your tech does not have a Magnihelix leak checker and proper expanders and German shrinker tools... find one who does. Watch MusicMedic and BSS videos—a tricky procedure given work-hardening and hysteresis of brass and ovalizarion. Ryan made 14 trips between the tools and tester to get my fit—on a brand new YTS-82ZASP.
 
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