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I just bought a 110/2 berg, before it i was playing on A Selmer C* with size 3 vandorens. When i first got the mouthpiece and put a 3 vandoren on it, i started squeaking on a bunch of notes. This is my first jazz mouthpiece so do you think i need to adjust to it? Do i need a softer reed maybe?
 

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I just bought a 110/2 berg, before it i was playing on A Selmer C* with size 3 vandorens. When i first got the mouthpiece and put a 3 vandoren on it, i started squeaking on a bunch of notes. This is my first jazz mouthpiece so do you think i need to adjust to it? Do i need a softer reed maybe?
Assuming that this is for a tenor. That's a pretty healthy jump in tip opening size (not mention baffles and all that), so yeah, I'd try a softer reed first. Then practice, long tones, etc.

Just saw (as I hit send) that this was for baritone. However, still a biggish jump, so my thoughts remain the same.
 

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My experience with squeak problems are that almost all of them are caused by the reed. Whenever I am plagued with squeaks, I put on a Legere reed instead and play the same passage again - the squeaks are gone!
The reason I mention Legere is that synthetic reeds are very stable, I expect that Fibracell would do the job just as well.
 

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Hey guys, don't mean to threadjack, but I've got the same problem. Started life on a Selmer C*, bought a Lawton 6* and then moved back to the Selmer through uni for my classical performances. Now I'm playing funk I've switched back and have rediscovered the fun of squeaking. I've also recently moved to the semi synthetic Rico Plasticover 2 1/2 from Vandoren ZZ 3 as originally I thought it was better and more powerful, but when practicing on the mouthpiece alone and during big tonal jumps and altissimo I get anything ranging from little 'peeps' to full on squeals!

Thoughts?

Peace and tooting,

D.
 

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Here's Mojo's text:

"Q. Why does my metal mouthpiece chirp and squeak when I play it?
A. I have thought quite a bit on the physics of chirping. The driving force is high pressure. Players almost never chirp at low sound volumes. If a piece is uneven or the facing curve has irregularities, it will not be responsive and a player needs to use more pressure to make it speak. With high pressure often comes a tighter embouchure that closes off the tip opening some. This geometry is prone to squeaking. Especially if the tip is uneven and/or the baffle is high near the tip. It allows the very tip of the reed to vibrate like a mini reed at high frequency. The high baffle focuses the air even more. Try taking more mouthpiece in and/or playing while forming an "Ahhh" with you oral cavity.

The mouthpiece material has no effect on squeaks in my opinion. However, metal mouthpieces usually have higher baffles than non-metal mouthpieces. So it is common to think that metal is louder and squeaky. But this is not due to the material.

Players who like to play on the very tip of a mouthpiece are more prone to chirps. Players who take more mouthpiece in have less chirps. When you take in less mouthpiece, you usually close off some of the tip opening with your embouchure. A tight embouchure can do the same thing. Often you choose a harder reed to make this embouchure work for you. Or you start with too hard of a reed and this forces your embouchure to be tight or towards the tip. This is not necessarily a bad embouchure. Just be aware of the factors at play here.

Reeds that have a thin tip and a thick heart are more prone to squeaks, especially when used with long mouthpiece facings. A Fibracell reed has a cut that is difficult to make squeak. When I use a Fibracell and take in a little more mouthpiece, no mouthpiece squeaks for me. However, some players do not want to use Fibracells or change their embouchure. Then, working on the facing curve, tip rail and lowering the baffle some usually helps."
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I returned it, but i am very confused about the sizes of the bergs. What reed matches with what size? Would a Size 3 vandoren go with a 120/1? Or should i use a 3.5? Is there a chart for this stuff?
 

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Reed strength vs tip opening isn't based on a formula. I for one moved from a Link 5* .90ish to a .110 JDX7 and only stepped down half a reed strength (rico orange box 2.5) . Where as when I move to a Yamaha 5cm - .87ish, for classical playing. I have to make a big jump in strength to a 3.5 to 4.0 depending on the individual reed. Some 3.5 feel harder than others and some 4's feel softer.

Your embouchure, reed brand, mouthpiece, and ligature may have more to do with what strength reed you need rather than a hard and fast rule on strength verses tip opening. I say buy a few 3 packs of different strengths reeds. With strengths from 2 to 3.5 and see what works best then try other brands with similar hardness to what you like to fine tune the sound. It's my technique so YMMV.
 

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Something softer. On bari, I use a Rico Jazz Select 2M with a Strathon 8 (roughly equivelant). No squeakies, because relaxing the embrouchure causes you (or at least allows you) to take in more mouthpiece. Also, bari loves a loose approach to the piece for jazz. You can really make it cry with an open tip and a soft reed.
 
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