Hello
First congrats on a great site, I have learned so much from it over the past few weeks. The info on here has helped me in successfully buying and restoring a Weltklang Tenor (model 241), and also purchasing this Dolnet series 2 Tenor. I already have a Universal stencil M70 alto serial 81xxxM70 which I bought about 20 years ago for my wife to learn on, and which has been lying in the cupboard for most of the time when kids and work prevented us from practising.
I recently purchased a Dolnet Series 2 (serial 24xxx) from Ricardo (Swiss version of ebay etc), and it is missing the Body Octave Key, and the top post.
Does anybody have this part lying around (seems the series 2, Belair and Royal Jazz all have the same mechanism) ?
Failing that, does anyone have any similar parts that could be adapted (preferably silver colored, but brass would also work). The post uses a pointed screw, and the screw stands about 10.6mm above the body. The shaft of the key is about 150mm long. Provided I have enough material, it shouldn't be too difficult to make the part.
Payment could be through Paypal.
Despite this missing part, I feel I won on the auction. The sax was advertised as silver plated... Once i stripped it down and soaked it in soap, vinegar, baking soda (wrapped in alu)to get rid of all the dirt, I was able to see what I had got. Turns out it is silver, not silver plated (scratches on the bell, presumably from 70 years in and out of sax stand, show silver below and there is no worn spots showing brass below), and the material it is made from is too thin to be plated (.7mm measured at tonehole).
I know everyone is preparing to jump and say 'are you sure its not HP'
, but after learning so much from this site I had checked that it was 74cm long, and had checked the photos for the placement of the F# and D keys, so I was reasonable sure it was LP
Despite the pads being in very bad shape, as soon as I got it I tested it by sealing (taping) up all the keys above the auxiliary B), and then blew a C#. According.to my tuner it was spot on (well, after pushing the mouthpiece on a bit more). I was then to produce the next three notes (C, B and A) as well by applying lots of pressure to make the pads seal. All three notes were in tune, and when I lifted the neck octave pad, all three also played an octave higher in tune.
Unfortunately it seems to have been dropped at some time, the bell was slightly bent in to the body, and also the seam of the bow to bell had been bent, Both of these had been 'fixed' by an amateur, leaving hammer marks, and still a slight bend in the bow seam. IMHO neither of these should prevent the sax from playing, although time will tell. The 'hammer bumps' are not too visible and when one considers the sax is probably over 75 years old, a few scars and wrinkles are (for me) acceptable.
Toneholes are almost perfect, the low C has high spots which will need to be levelled, and all holes will need slight sanding to ensure perfection. Cups all fit squarely, although the low B and low B flat only fell into line when I pushed the bell out a bit more from the body (also explains the low C high spots?)
Here are some photos
Thanks in advance,
Regards
Dave
First congrats on a great site, I have learned so much from it over the past few weeks. The info on here has helped me in successfully buying and restoring a Weltklang Tenor (model 241), and also purchasing this Dolnet series 2 Tenor. I already have a Universal stencil M70 alto serial 81xxxM70 which I bought about 20 years ago for my wife to learn on, and which has been lying in the cupboard for most of the time when kids and work prevented us from practising.
I recently purchased a Dolnet Series 2 (serial 24xxx) from Ricardo (Swiss version of ebay etc), and it is missing the Body Octave Key, and the top post.
Does anybody have this part lying around (seems the series 2, Belair and Royal Jazz all have the same mechanism) ?
Failing that, does anyone have any similar parts that could be adapted (preferably silver colored, but brass would also work). The post uses a pointed screw, and the screw stands about 10.6mm above the body. The shaft of the key is about 150mm long. Provided I have enough material, it shouldn't be too difficult to make the part.
Payment could be through Paypal.
Despite this missing part, I feel I won on the auction. The sax was advertised as silver plated... Once i stripped it down and soaked it in soap, vinegar, baking soda (wrapped in alu)to get rid of all the dirt, I was able to see what I had got. Turns out it is silver, not silver plated (scratches on the bell, presumably from 70 years in and out of sax stand, show silver below and there is no worn spots showing brass below), and the material it is made from is too thin to be plated (.7mm measured at tonehole).
I know everyone is preparing to jump and say 'are you sure its not HP'
Despite the pads being in very bad shape, as soon as I got it I tested it by sealing (taping) up all the keys above the auxiliary B), and then blew a C#. According.to my tuner it was spot on (well, after pushing the mouthpiece on a bit more). I was then to produce the next three notes (C, B and A) as well by applying lots of pressure to make the pads seal. All three notes were in tune, and when I lifted the neck octave pad, all three also played an octave higher in tune.
Unfortunately it seems to have been dropped at some time, the bell was slightly bent in to the body, and also the seam of the bow to bell had been bent, Both of these had been 'fixed' by an amateur, leaving hammer marks, and still a slight bend in the bow seam. IMHO neither of these should prevent the sax from playing, although time will tell. The 'hammer bumps' are not too visible and when one considers the sax is probably over 75 years old, a few scars and wrinkles are (for me) acceptable.
Toneholes are almost perfect, the low C has high spots which will need to be levelled, and all holes will need slight sanding to ensure perfection. Cups all fit squarely, although the low B and low B flat only fell into line when I pushed the bell out a bit more from the body (also explains the low C high spots?)
Here are some photos


Thanks in advance,
Regards
Dave