Perhaps several times.Dave dix said:Heat it up a bit then quench with a penetrating oil
Dave
Also make sure that the screwdriver you are using fits the screw slot exactly in terms of both length and width. You might have to carefully grind/file one to custom fit. If not, and/or you force it, the tangs will break off. Whole new ball game then. :shock:stitch said:Perhaps several times.
Good quality long bladed sharp screwdriver.
Patience.
Care when using the screwdriver (keep your other hand out of the way...).
Well, kind of by definition it wasn't the Conn microtuner, but yes similar set ups are found on other vintage horns.JerryJamz2 said:Are we all on the same page here? I don't recall ever that any Keilwerth had the infamous Conn "Microtuner" neck assembly system. Perhaps terminology/nomenclature is at fault?
Been there and done that on my Conn 10M (closet horn by the way) on the small screw that secures the wire low B - Bb keyguard. Do you have any suggestions for the "new ball game" you mentioned?JerryJamz2 said:Also make sure that the screwdriver you are using fits the screw slot exactly in terms of both length and width. You might have to carefully grind/file one to custom fit. If not, and/or you force it, the tangs will break off. Whole new ball game then. :shock:
JerryJamz2 said:I don't recall ever that any Keilwerth had the infamous Conn "Microtuner" neck assembly system.
Also, just to muddy the waters a bit, it's not at all uncommon to see 'Merc' keyguards and fingernail or pearl G# on earlier European horns.stitch said:Well, kind of by definition it wasn't the Conn microtuner, but yes similar set ups are found on other vintage horns.
The guard is held tight and the head of the screw is just about flush with the foot that holds the guard. Part of the problem is that the soldered on guard of the fork F# is in the way of getting a Dremel tool hand piece close enough to the screw without a long narrow bit.JerryJamz2 said:Is the guard itself still being held in position by that grub screw being tight, or does the guard slip out of the foot? Lots of possibilities but each situation dictates it's solution. Does it protrude still from the foot, or is it broken-off below the surface level?
Where can you buy dental burrs that small. To get into the area I need to drill would almost require a small right angle chuck attachment for my Dremel hand piece. Do they even make those?Gordon (NZ) said:Use a tiny dental bur in a dental handpiece, to re-mill a slot in the screw....Drill a tiny hole through the screw (again, using the dental handpiece). Then use an appropriate diameter broach to jam into that hole and turn the screw.