[Seasax]

i am repairing an old keilworth which has a microtuner and tyhe grub screw holding it together just wont budge, what should i do?

 

[Chris Peryagh]

Can you drill into it and use a screw extractor to remove the grub screw? Then make a new grub screw from a piece of threaded stainless steel, the same thread as the original grub screw.

 

[Seasax]

i was looking for a slightly less destructive manor of removing the screw!

 

[Dave dix]

Heat it up a bit then quench with a penetrating oil
Dave

 

[stitch]

Heat it up a bit then quench with a penetrating oil
Dave

Perhaps several times.

Good quality long bladed sharp screwdriver.
Patience.
Care when using the screwdriver (keep your other hand out of the way...).

 

[JerryJamz2]

Perhaps several times.

Good quality long bladed sharp screwdriver.
Patience.
Care when using the screwdriver (keep your other hand out of the way...).

Also make sure that the screwdriver you are using fits the screw slot exactly in terms of both length and width. You might have to carefully grind/file one to custom fit. If not, and/or you force it, the tangs will break off. Whole new ball game then. :shock:

 

[baritone]

by the way, I also try to remove and clean a roller's rod on the True Tone alto....

I think the upper part (where you put the screw driver) was bent....I applied penetrating oil....should try some heat later on...or shall I cut the rod?

 

[baritone]

thats the low C roller....by saying it was bent, the upper part of the key, where the rod goes into, was knocked out....so instead of the two ends are parallel, they became around 30 degree angle....

 

[JerryJamz2]

Are we all on the same page here? I don't recall ever that any Keilwerth had the infamous Conn "Microtuner" neck assembly system. Perhaps terminology/nomenclature is at fault?

 

[stitch]

Are we all on the same page here? I don't recall ever that any Keilwerth had the infamous Conn "Microtuner" neck assembly system. Perhaps terminology/nomenclature is at fault?

Well, kind of by definition it wasn't the Conn microtuner, but yes similar set ups are found on other vintage horns.

 

[jbtsax]

Also make sure that the screwdriver you are using fits the screw slot exactly in terms of both length and width. You might have to carefully grind/file one to custom fit. If not, and/or you force it, the tangs will break off. Whole new ball game then. :shock:

Been there and done that on my Conn 10M (closet horn by the way) on the small screw that secures the wire low B - Bb keyguard. Do you have any suggestions for the "new ball game" you mentioned?

 

[stitch]

I don't recall ever that any Keilwerth had the infamous Conn "Microtuner" neck assembly system.

Well, kind of by definition it wasn't the Conn microtuner, but yes similar set ups are found on other vintage horns.

Also, just to muddy the waters a bit, it's not at all uncommon to see 'Merc' keyguards and fingernail or pearl G# on earlier European horns.

 

[shmuelyosef]

As I recall, Amati made some Conn copies early on...

 

[jbtsax]

Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove a stuck "grub screw" on an old Conn tenor that has the tangs broken off? :? It is located on the low B - Bb wire keyguard. Is there anyone who makes screw extractors this small? Thanks.

John

 

[JerryJamz2]

John,

Is the guard itself still being held in position by that grub screw being tight, or does the guard slip out of the foot? Lots of posibilities but each situation dictates it's solution. Does it protrude still from the foot, or is it broken-off below the surface level?

 

[Gordon (NZ)]

Use a tiny dental bur in a dental handpiece, to re-mill a slot in the screw.

Or...

Drill a tiny hole through the screw (again, using the dental handpiece). Then use an appropriate diameter broach to jam into that hole and turn the screw.

Or...

Dissolve it with hot alum solution. (It takes a while. I have not tried this yet.)

 

[jbtsax]

Is the guard itself still being held in position by that grub screw being tight, or does the guard slip out of the foot? Lots of possibilities but each situation dictates it's solution. Does it protrude still from the foot, or is it broken-off below the surface level?

The guard is held tight and the head of the screw is just about flush with the foot that holds the guard. Part of the problem is that the soldered on guard of the fork F# is in the way of getting a Dremel tool hand piece close enough to the screw without a long narrow bit.

 

[jbtsax]

Use a tiny dental bur in a dental handpiece, to re-mill a slot in the screw....Drill a tiny hole through the screw (again, using the dental handpiece). Then use an appropriate diameter broach to jam into that hole and turn the screw.

Where can you buy dental burrs that small. To get into the area I need to drill would almost require a small right angle chuck attachment for my Dremel hand piece. Do they even make those?

 

[JerryJamz2]

If you unsolder the guard foot, this would open up your possibilities for repair. I believe that adding enough heat to the grub screw area in order to loosen it would tend to unsolder the guard foot flange from the bell anyways by default. Depending on the machining capability of your shop, might limit you to the further suggestions I have in mind. :?

 

[hansmartini]

John, I think they do make a right angled something or other for the Dremel, However to communicate effectively with Gordon, you'll need to get a dental motor tool and zillions of dental burrs. Gordon has a great thing going and he never tires of reminding the rest of us about how we're missing out. Right, Gordon?
Hans