[Tommysug]

Yes tech’s do invest / make a fair amount of tools to make quality repairs.

Creativity and ingenuity is far more advanced then any tool could ever be.

 

[PigSquealer]

Time to make the bumpers and cork behind the octave key touch.
From some bulk felt I cut the bumper rounds out with a 1/2” punch. this can be made from a steel round tube. Sharpen the inside with a ball grinder or cone shape abrasive bit.

Makes no difference if you cut off a slice. The material compress is the same for the cuts.

Using a hole punch just inside the edge for making the notch to clear the screw.

With a gently warmed pad slick I iron the piece flat so it glides into the clamp easily. too much heat will burn the felt. If your cutter is not sharp you will end up with fuzzy edges. Those can be burned off with a lightning fast pass of your torch.

I checked the part for it and then applied a coating of contact cement to just the flat edge. Quickly inserted the piece and pulled it back out. This coats the metal side. I applied a second coat to the felt and let it dry a few minutes.

The screws hold the clamp onto the wire guard. These are not for clamping / holding the felt!

A minor improvement from the original look at start of project.

 

[PigSquealer]

Installing the octave touch stop cork. I used an 1/8” thick piece of tech cork. The 1/2” punch used in the above step to cut the part out. To determine the thickness required I measured the total movement of the touch. This would be from the resting position depressing until the octave lever quit moving. Neck installed. Any additional movement does nothing more. There is still room in the system for adjusting the tolerances. The resting level starting point is comfortable to the LH thumb rest. Fully depressed is equally comfortable for a player.

 

[SephirothTNH]

Pick yourself up a neck, someone here must have one laying around...then you are off to the races

I'm going to attempt to repair the original neck first.

I'm probably going to tackle this project during summer break. Since I'm teaching again I should have enough spare time to devote to it during the summer. I would like to start assembling some tools needed for the job though. Anyone have any suggestions on brand/sizes of screwdrivers. I was thinking of getting some from jlsmith since they seem oft recommended. But not really sure what sizes to get to start out. @PigSquealer I see you have modified some of your screw drivers do you suggest this to a first timer? I will note that I have fully disassembled and reassembled this sax once so I know nothing is seized up on it. I just used some cheap precision screwdrivers from walmart when I did it. In the time I've spent here in the interim decade or more I've come to understand how bad an idea that is and would like to do things right next time.

I really appreciate this thread PigSquealer. I keep looking forward to your updates on it.d

 

[PigSquealer]

I'm going to attempt to repair the original neck first.

I'm probably going to tackle this project during summer break. Since I'm teaching again I should have enough spare time to devote to it during the summer. I would like to start assembling some tools needed for the job though. Anyone have any suggestions on brand/sizes of screwdrivers. I was thinking of getting some from jlsmith since they seem oft recommended. But not really sure what sizes to get to start out. @PigSquealer I see you have modified some of your screw drivers do you suggest this to a first timer? I will note that I have fully disassembled and reassembled this sax once so I know nothing is seized up on it. I just used some cheap precision screwdrivers from walmart when I did it. In the time I've spent here in the interim decade or more I've come to understand how bad an idea that is and would like to do things right next time.

I really appreciate this thread PigSquealer. I keep looking forward to your updates on it.d

Glad you’re enjoying the thread. I put your pictures to good use. Thanks again for that👍

Woodwind Screwdriver

As most technicians know, a good screwdriver is hard to find. Having the right size screwdriver for the job makes all the difference.First rate German construction means these screwdrivers are appropriate for daily repair shop use.The shafts are Chrome-Molybdenum-Vanadium steel for exceptional...

www.musicmedic.com

Yes I do buy screwdrivers from the local hardware store. Professional grade. These can be altered with skill and a good hard fine mill file. Do not use a grinder you will ruin the hardness. They do not survive as well as the ones mentioned above. There is only a couple dollars in savings.

Here is the most recent thread on the subject. Current product and pricing.

Screwdrivers

I know this subject has been discussed and at length previously but not recently. Many have espoused the virtues of the 'once available' Kraus screwdrivers. Music Medic sell screwdrivers made by FELO (Germany) and while these are OK for routine maintenance of maintained horns they don't cut the...

www.saxontheweb.net

 

[ZootTheSim]

Wait, you re-mill your own tools?! Damn, I will never be able to follow in your footsteps. Maybe I can take up, like, puzzles or adult colouring books instead.

 

[PigSquealer]

Wait, you re-mill your own tools?! Damn, I will never be able to follow in your footsteps. Maybe I can take up, like, puzzles or adult colouring books instead.

Hand file altering. It’s not unusual for restoration craftsman to make many of their own tools.
this is just part of the file assortment. Tools for making tools. The funny looking square ones on the upper right with the red handle, thread files.

Available in 30 pieces age 4+. For age 9 and over they recommend the thousand piece kit. Humm, i’ve never built a baritone before🤣

Big Baritone Saxophone Jigsaw Puzzle by Havocgirl

Represent the bari sax!!!!! Sticker-up your case. • Millions of unique designs by independent artists. Find your thing.

www.redbubble.com

 

[TobyB]

is it bad form to admit I modify my screwdrivers (carefully) on the 1x40 belt sander?
And then sometimes re-harden them if they're not as hard as I'd like?

And even sometimes fit a Philips screwdriver to work better with a particular shape of screw?

Or maybe even make some out of leftover drill rod?

Yep, as long as they fit well, it's not so humongous a deal, eventually.

t

 

[SephirothTNH]

Glad you’re enjoying the thread. I put your pictures to good use. Thanks again for that👍

Woodwind Screwdriver

As most technicians know, a good screwdriver is hard to find. Having the right size screwdriver for the job makes all the difference.First rate German construction means these screwdrivers are appropriate for daily repair shop use.The shafts are Chrome-Molybdenum-Vanadium steel for exceptional...

www.musicmedic.com

Yes I do buy screwdrivers from the local hardware store. Professional grade. These can be altered with skill and a good hard fine mill file. Do not use a grinder you will ruin the hardness. They do not survive as well as the ones mentioned above. There is only a couple dollars in savings.

I went ahead and ordered the c, d, e, and f screwdrivers from musicmedic. Didn't seem like A and B would be that necessary for this sax. But I may order them next month anyway. I also ordered both sized spring hooks. For this project I probably only need the larger one but I fancy replacing a few flute pads this summer as well. I have some smooth faced pliers that came as case candy at some point but I'll probably order some more. Currently going through the thread again to see what tools I might need put on the next order.

 

[PigSquealer]

I went ahead and ordered the c, d, e, and f screwdrivers from musicmedic. Didn't seem like A and B would be that necessary for this sax. But I may order them next month anyway. I also ordered both sized spring hooks. For this project I probably only need the larger one but I fancy replacing a few flute pads this summer as well. I have some smooth faced pliers that came as case candy at some point but I'll probably order some more. Currently going through the thread again to see what tools I might need put on the next order.

Excellent choice for a starter set ! As far as any additional tools. Well a lot of that’s driven by the condition of the sax and what’s needed. A little creativity will get you around necessity of buying a tool for a one time use. Remember the old TV series MacGyver . Although a Swiss Army knife would not be my choice for a full armory of sax repair tools.

 

[PigSquealer]

The horn is now complete. I’ve played it some. Made one adjustment on the low C bumper felt. One swipe of sandpaper under the B & front F feet. That’s all it took to make it blow. I still need to do some tuning. I need to practice up for a week before giving it a serious go. I just realized I haven’t played since New Year’s Eve. And 15th December before that, ouch! Not good to be tuning out of practice. Didn’t even bother looking at a tuner.

 

[PigSquealer]

My playing is terrible but here’s a quick noodle. Ugh awful breath control amongst other things.

Charlie Martin test.1.MP4

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Stoopalini]

Looks great! Nice job documenting all of this

I also have just a touch of a leak at the very tip of F#. This will be taken care of when I set a impression on the pads. My technique may not work for everyone. View attachment 144860

Did I miss the technique for the bolded part int hat statement? How do you go about making impressions in new pads for the tone hole?

 

[PigSquealer]

Did I miss the technique for the bolded part int hat statement? How do you go about making impressions in new pads for the tone hole?

I warmed the entire saxophone with a hairdryer. Fan set at maximum. Temperature where I can comfortably hold my hand in front of it. Whole body warm.
With very light pressure I hold the keys down by hand. I don’t compress the felt. I end up with a very faint impression in the leather. I only do this on broad rims to reduce any spongy feeling. Don’t be surprised if the impression looks irregular or you don’t get one at all. We’re talking maybe a .003 setting.

 

[PigSquealer]

A DIY leak test. Give it the glove.
lookie no hands !

I did play some again last night. I am suspicious that I may not need to make many adjustments. Quite a bit of improvement over the first play in October. I still need more practice time.

October

January

 

[PigSquealer]

Meanwhile I’m doing a little service work on the case.

Cleaned with compressed air and a shop vac.

Then shampooed with Woolight carpet and upholstery cleaner.

Loose material & strings trimmed. I used a hotmelt glue to fix the loose areas.

I flattened the insert on the workbench. The fabric is mounted on cardboard. In position I started gluing from one end.

Next I attached the large area. Glue around the perimeter and some in the middle field. Work quickly !

interior done

 

[PigSquealer]

Need to get going on this next project for a customer. I’ll keep updating the thread on the tuning and case finish.

Not doing a thread but this is what’s next. It’s a 1920 Conn NW1 tenor.

 

[PigSquealer]

Several people have asked me about cleaning mouthpieces. Here is one of the better articles.

#WednesdayWisdom: How To Fix Green & Old Rubber Mouthpieces – Sax ProShop

saxproshop.com

 

[PigSquealer]

Been practicing for a week now again. It just keeps getting better. Other than the first initial adjustments, I haven’t had to make any. I’ve been playing the Indiana side by side with a couple other Martins I have. This Indiana has true Martin feel and sound.

28 gold plated HC, 38 Committee, The Martin Indiana, 27 HC, 30 Typewriter
Grrrrrrr now I’m dying to get the repad done on the Typewriter.

 

[Hornlip]

Nice. Had a typewriter tenor for a while; fun horn and easier to play than it looked.