[PigSquealer]

@CharlieOregon sent me his early 1960’s RMC Martin Indiana alto to do a educational thread. He is the original owner. Hopefully he will chime in and tell us of it’s journey. It started with many months of doing a newspaper route to earn the money….

Overall it‘s in good shape. No signs of damage or poor maintenance.

Orginal Samsonite case.

 

[PigSquealer]

After a few minutes of reviewing I thought I could get it to play. I didn’t expect much. Pads have seen better days.
A little penetrant oil on all moving parts. I do this on all the old dry ones anyway. Good pre dissembling habit. Let soak a few days.
A felt was missing under the ”A” touch. Installed a used one for test playing.

A couple of palm keys didn’t look real rosie but passed the leak light test. The low Eb had seen better days.

A cellophane wrap did no good. Next option…..

Covering the tonehole with tape was considered but I have a box of old smelly pads for the task. Looking at the backside of this old installation makes you wonder. Was there a shellac shortage?

Old pad in and leak free. Time to test play !

Didn’t play all that bad.
First one of these I’ve played. Good Martin as usual. I have 6 Vintage Martins. This will be a fun one when done.

 

[Hoosier Ken]

Looks good, have you ever tried a thin adhesive neoprene for testing or emergency repairs?

 

[Hornlip]

I used to have an Indiana almost exactly like this one except it didn’t have the RMC engraving. Guess it was from a little earlier. It replaced my first horn, which was a ‘50s student Noblet. The Noblet was actually pretty good and built like a tank, but the Indiana really outclassed it. It was a swell horn.

 

[PigSquealer]

Looks good, have you ever tried a thin adhesive neoprene for testing or emergency repairs?

No. I’ve never really had a reason to go to source the materials. If a pad is beyond a quick temporary fix with cellophane I replace it.

 

[PigSquealer]

I used to have an Indiana almost exactly like this one except it didn’t have the RMC engraving. Guess it was from a little earlier. It replaced my first horn, which was a ‘50s student Noblet. The Noblet was actually pretty good and built like a tank, but the Indiana really outclassed it. It was a swell horn.

Thank you . This sax may be up for sale upon completion. The proceeds going to charity.

Any SOTW members that have instruments they’re sitting on,but are reluctant to attempt servicing. Join in if you would like. Post your sax and participate along. I don’t care what it is or the condition. Keep in mind you own your mishaps and mistakes. I take no responsibility for broken parts. Fingers stabbed with springs. Hands stabbed with screwdrivers. The lacquer on a Bundy II burning. Melted shellac on your wife’s favorite tablecloth. Crooked neck cork. Burnt pads, pearls or burning your garage down.
Knowledge of tool use and shop safety is your responsibility.

 

[PigSquealer]

Screwdriver 101.
A lot of damage occurs from using incorrect screwdrivers. Common beginner mistake. whatever you choose make sure it is the right width and thickness. A screwdriver with two steep of a blade angle will wedge a hinge rod into the post. Too wide it will ruin the face and opening of the post. One the correct tip size and about 8 inches long will do. A 4” & 10-12” is also nice to have.
When I screw does not turn easily STOP ! Figure out why!
Rust, bent/damaged, side locking set screw, head wedged into post or frozen in hinge tube. All are frequent issues on older or unmaintained units.

A spring hook, smooth face pliers, heat source, magnifying hood and good lighting help immensely.

 

[PigSquealer]

Here‘s a nice Indiana feature article by @nigeld on the Café.

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cafesaxophone.com

 

[soybean]

Maybe you can give some more information about your tuning app and how you use it. I can see that the symbols indicate whether a note is sharp or flat but what do the various symbols mean?

 

[PigSquealer]

Maybe you can give some more information about your tuning app and how you use it. I can see that the symbols indicate whether a note is sharp or flat but what do the various symbols mean?

Symbols ? The colors? Sharp or flat to graph the time each note was played and how well in tune. Overall performance is the top bar. The tuning range sensitivity is adjustable. Wide is +/- 5 cents, medium is +/-3 cents, fine +/-2cents, ultra fine +/- 1 cent. I usually start on medium.
The app allows you to put notes in for each instrument played. Then restart the session so you can record after making adjustments. I can go back and access records of everything I played back to January 2018.

 

[NO SAX]

Screwdriver 101.
A lot of damage occurs from using incorrect screwdrivers. Common beginner mistake. whatever you choose make sure it is the right width and thickness. A screwdriver with two steep of a blade angle will wedge a hinge rod into the post. Too wide it will ruin the face and opening of the post. One the correct tip size and about 8 inches long will do. A 4” & 10-12” is also nice to have.
When I screw does not turn easily STOP ! Figure out why!
Rust, bent/damaged, side locking set screw, head wedged into post or frozen in hinge tube. All are frequent issues on older or unmaintained units.
View attachment 143271
View attachment 143272
A spring hook, smooth face pliers, heat source, magnifying hood and good lighting help immensely. View attachment 143275 View attachment 143276
View attachment 143274
View attachment 143273
View attachment 143277
View attachment 143278

After reading how in-depth an overhaul is, I’ll leave my conn overhaul to the pro’s

 

[PigSquealer]

After reading how in-depth an overhaul is, I’ll leave my conn overhaul to the pro’s

I’m curious as to what you were reading. Send me a PM if you need help.

 

[TobyB]

Symbols ? The colors? Sharp or flat to graph the time each note was played and how well in tune. Overall performance is the top bar. The tuning range sensitivity is adjustable. Wide is +/- 5 cents, medium is +/-3 cents, fine +/-2cents, ultra fine +/- 1 cent. I usually start on medium.
The app allows you to put notes in for each instrument played. Then restart the session so you can record after making adjustments. I can go back and access records of everything I played back to January 2018.

One last question: What's it called?

Thanks for doing this! Especially the intonation checks-
I've gotten to about that point, and it's a little daunting...

t

 

[PigSquealer]

After reviewing a couple times you’ll see different things that may or may not need attention. Do your homework so you know if something needs attention. Ask questions! Be patient.
I normally photograph the entire Saxophone. Front, back, right, left, top in detail.

Bent hinge tube on this key. Do you see what else needs attention in this picture?

If you didn’t see it in the picture above. The hinge rod to the front F fork link is tad long. Nothing really wrong with it. The threaded portion fits correctly. Better long than to short.
The shopping list of repairs begins.

The cloth guard needs attention. Look beyond the ruler….

I can see the wires are bent but how much? Anyone have a picture of one that’s straight?
I haven’t worked on this model before. It’s similar to a Martin committee. It’s unsafe to assume. The alignment of a cloth guard may not seem like much. Martins have pretty stout tone holes (aka,chimneys, sockets). On a Conn without rolled tone holes this could mean the face of the chimney may not be level. Gently close the key and check with a leak light. If there’s no leak and you do some straightening. Anticipate a leak !

I love what I’m seeing. This Sax did some serious battle. No show all go, It’s been maintained well. Nothing loose! See the cork on low C# & fork on F#. Not one pad leak in the area. Regulation still spot on.
eyes open. The upper stack hinge rod must be dry. It’s beginning to unscrew itself. Look to the left of the picture. Left of side F#.
Note body to bell brace is straight and no damage on either side.

 

[PigSquealer]

Here’s a diagram to study from. Keep in mind that each saxophone is different. Especially when you’re working on a vintage unit. There may be keys in this diagram that don’t exist. Or you may have a “Split Bell” ect.

 

[PigSquealer]

Look down inside the body tube. It’s quite common for a body tube to be bent. Usually where the body to bow brace is. Somewhere around F# to G.

looking straight down inside on the front side and then the backside. A little curve is quite common. You don’t want a banana! If your key work is binding this could be the issue.

It’s also possible for a bell to be out of alignment with the body.

Anyone exploring a Martin bow may find a hole in the bottom. This is normal. Although this unit it has been plugged.

 

[PigSquealer]

One last question: What's it called?

Thanks for doing this! Especially the intonation checks-
I've gotten to about that point, and it's a little daunting...

t

Total Energy tuner.

TonalEnergy, Inc.

TonalEnergy Tuner & Metronome, a musician's best friend in practice.

www.tonalenergy.com

 

[NO SAX]

I’m curious as to what you were reading. Send me a PM if you need help.

Many parts

 

[Hoosier Ken]

I bought an Indiana tenor and discovered that it has been beat to H E double hocky sticks. I still don't have it back together but have all of the parts. It will be interesting to see if I can make it play. Somewhere along the lines I have lost a spring that must have fallen out. I may need to ask for some of your expertise and I will keep mining your threads for info.

 

[TobyB]

Total Energy tuner.

TonalEnergy, Inc.

TonalEnergy Tuner & Metronome, a musician's best friend in practice.

www.tonalenergy.com

Thanks!
Installing now...

t