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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll make a few photos showing Horns characteristics side by side with this thread. All C-Mels of course.

Here's one I took the other day showing the bottom gussets
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are 5 necks, I should label the Royal Artist as a Buescher TT Stencil, the RA and the TT are identical other than the "man on the Moon" gusset found on the TTs
 

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If there are any angles you wish to see, let me know, I'll leave these out for now so I can turn them if you wish/request
Thanks for these comparisons, it's interesting to see the differences.

I'm linking your image of the upper stacks here: https://forum.saxontheweb.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=227328&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1550207221

I have a NW-2, and this picture shows one detail I think Conn entirely messed up, and it's the placement of the B touch. On the NW-2, the distance between the B touch and the bis touch is huge -- my finger gets caught in between on my horn. But look at the other horns in that pic - all of the other B touches are down a good 1/4" or so. Especially, the Buescher and RA, their B touches are totally on top of the bis touch (which is where it should be).

At some point I'm going to try to sugru a fix onto my horn. Other than that detail, I enjoy playing my c-mel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Like this?

Now that I look at what you are saying, I see what you mean, it is way down there....Of course, we can always solder something and change it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To be honest, I've been on my Buescher TT and not playing with the NW-II. I have the neck apart right now rebuilding the Conn NW-II tuner neck. Once that is done, I'll be blowing that one more. I have numerous Conn NW-I over the years, both Conns and Pan-American and the stencils. This is the first NW-II that I have had and I have NOT tackled the rebuild yet.
 

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Yeah, I think Fishman explains the need for its closeness well.

So this is interesting. I've attached a pic of my horn, and my B pearl is different than your NW-II, it's lower. On yours, the touch appears to be in line with the key arm, and mine is below. But it's still far away from the bis pearl, and closer to front F.

c-mel - 1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh wow, you compare the two pictures and you can clearly see a difference in placement between the two horns of the Bis key. Even more wow, yeah, your B pearl is offset from the arm and then you Bis is a 3:30 if it were a clock and mine is 2:55 if it were a clock. Your C pearl is also offset whereas mine is right on the arm that holds the cup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What is the serial number on yours? Mine is 31358, making it a 1914 (that seems odd, seems like it should be newer)
 

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OK, you're upping the ante with the whole measuring thing. My previous picture was exported way too small and I didn't realize it. So, here's a re-do.

c-mel - 1 (1).jpg
 

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My serial is M193xxx, so I think around 1927.

My ruler is referenced off the bottom of the G pearl also, so we can see how placement of pearls and toneholes changed in that time.

Here's a merged pic -- my horn is the upper half, yours is below.

merged-c-mels.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
^^Almost a quarter of an inch difference if you are measuring from the "Zero" point of the measuring tape. wow....I can't see the difference but it's undeniable. "Our" G key is seemingly in the same place and somehow it goes wonky between the two horns. Your A and B are clearly 1/4" different than mine....Even the octave mechanism is different but I can't see how they got that way.
 
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